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George  W ashington  Flowers 
Memorial  Collection 

DUKE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 


ESTABLISHED  BY  THE 
FAMILY  OF 

COLONEL  FLOWERS 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/glimpsesofafricaOOsmit 


GLIMPSES  OF  AFRICA 


WEST  AND  SOUTHWEST  COAST 


Containing  the  Author's  Impressions  and  Observations  during 
a Voyage  of  Six  Thousand  Miles  from  Sierra  Leone 
to  St.  Paul  de  Loanda , and  Return 


INCLUDING 


The  Rio  del  Ray  and  Cameroons  Rivers,  and  the  Congo  River 
from  its  Mouth  to  Matadi 


BY 


C.  S.  SMITH 

INTRODUCTION  BY 

BISHOP  H.  M.  TURNER,  D.  D.,  LL.  D. 


WITH  MAPS  AND  MANY  ILLUSTRATIONS 


NASHVILLE,  TENN. 

Publishing  House  A.  M.  E.  Church  Sunday  School  Union 
1895 


Copyright,  1895,  by  C.  S.  Smith. 


All  rights  reserved. 


rHE  FLOWERS  COlLibtWH 


DEDICATION. 

TO  ALL  NOBLE  AND  HEROIC  SPIRITS, 

WHO  BELIEVE 

THAT  THE  GOOD  OF  THE  WHOLE  IS  GREATER 
THAN  ANY  OF  ITS  PARTS, 

AND  WHO  ARE  POSSESSED  OF  THE 
SPIRIT  OF  SELF-DENIAL 
TO 

DARE  AND  VENTURE  FOR  THE  PUBLIC  WE^L, 
THIS  WORK 

IS  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED. 


432499 


PREFACE. 


OR  twenty  years  I had  been  possessed  of  a desire  to 


1 visit  Africa — a desire  which  grew  upon  me  as  the 
years  passed  by,  and  which  I at  last  succeeded  in  grat- 
ifying in  the  year  1894. 

The  voyage,  which  began  when  I left  Nashville,  Tenn., 
August  17,  of  the  above  year,  was  planned  so  as  to  cover 
a tour  of  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa,  for  a 
distance  of  three  thousand  miles  by  the  ship’s  course,  from 
Sierra  Leone  on  the  North  to  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  on  the 
South  ; and  to  include  the  ascent  of  the  Cameroons  and 
Congo  rivers,  so  far  as  they  are  navigable  for  ocean  steam- 
ers. The  inducing  causes  which  led  me  to  make  this  tour 
may  be  enumerated  as  follows  : 

First.  To  gratify  a long-cherished  desire  to  see  Africa. 
Second.  To  see  what  the  European  is  doing  there.  Third. 
To  see  what  the  African  himself  is  doing.  Fourth.  To 
gain  a knowledge  of  the  operations  of  missionary  efforts. 
Fifth.  To  make  some  meteorological  observations.  Sixth. 
To  see  if  there  are  any  openings  for  the  employment  of  the 
skill  and  energy  of  intelligent  and  industrious  young  Amer- 
icans of  African  descent. 

The  time  occupied  in  making  the  voyage  was  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven  days  from  the  date  I left  Nashville  un- 
til I returned.  I was  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of 
Africa  two  months  and  three  weeks,  including  a stop  at 
Monrovia  of  ten  days,  and  at  Sierra  Leone  of  six  days. 
All  civilizing  influences  are  confined  to  the  coast  and  river 


(5) 


432495 


6 


Preface. 


courses.  I carried  with  me  my  own  scientific  instruments 
for  making  meteorological  observations,  and  a number  of 
books  on  Africa,  so  that  I might  compare  the  statements  of 
other  African  travelers  with  the  results  of  my  own  obser- 
vations. 

I did  not  go  into  the  interior  at  any  point,  except  as  1 
ascended  the  Rio  del  Ray,  Cameroons,  and  Congo  rivers. 
I asceuded  the  Congo  for  a distance  of  one  hundred  and 
ten  miles,  which  is  as  far  as  ocean  steamers  can  go,  naviga- 
tion being  interrupted  by  a series  of  cataracts. 

My  original  intention  was  to  confine  my  initial  effort  as 
a book  writer  to  the  simple  narrative  of  the  results  of  my 
observations.  Before  I had  completed  my  tour,  however, 
I was  led  to  change  this  plan  so  as  to  include  some  matter 
of  a general  nature  in  harmony  with  the  inducing  causes 
which  led  me  to  make  the  voyage. 

Hence  I have  divided  the  work  into  two  parts.  Part  I. 
contains  seven  chapters,  including  “Preliminary  State- 
ments.” Part  II.  contains  the  “Personal  Memoranda” 
of  the  voyage. 

The  narrative  is  confined  to  personal  observations,  1 hough 
this  will  perhaps  deprive  the  casual  reader  of  some  details 
otherwise  interesting.  Much  error,  particularly  in  refer- 
ence to  Africa,  has  been  propagated  in  consequence  of 
writers  generally  not  confining  the  subject  of  their  books  to 
their  own  observations.  In  my  own  case,  I presume,  the 
sources  of  information  being  equally  accessible,  that  the 
intelligent  reader  can  obtain  for  himself  as  easily  as  I can 
for  him  whatever  information  he  desires  about  the  early 
history  of  Africa,  its  ancient  races,  and  the  efforts  of  the 
Portuguese,  British,  and  Dutch  to  circumnavigate  and  col- 
onize that  continent. 

I do  not  lay  claim  to  originality  for  the  full  contents  of 


Preface. 


7 


the  work.  Chapter  II. — “Europe  in  Africa  ” — is  in  the 
main  a compilation  from  Whitaker’s  Almanac  for  1895.  I 
have  consulted  numerous  authors,  and  gained  valuable  data 
and  suggestions  from  their  writings.  With  two  single  ex- 
ceptions, all  the  works  consulted  have  been  published  with- 
in the  past  three  years. 

Among  other  scientific  instruments,  I carried  with  me 
Saussure’s  hygrometer  with  a thermometer  attached,  and 
an  aneroid  barometer  for  the  purpose  of  making  meteoro- 
logical observations. 

I unhesitatingly  vouch  for  the  genuineness  of  all  the  il- 
lustrations, as  they  are  made  from  photographs  collected 
by  myself,  and  for  which  I am  chiefly  indebted  to  Messrs. 
Lutterodt  Brothers,  and  Mr.  D.  Olawala  Labinjo,  native 
photographers  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  the  former  be- 
ing located  at  Accra,  Gold  Coast  Colony. 

Acknowledgments  are  made  for  favors  received  durin'g 
the  voyage  from  Elder,  Dempster  & Co.,  Agents  of  the 
African  Steamship  Company,  Liverpool,  Eng.  ; Rev.  J. 
R.  Frederick,  Freetown,  Sierra  Leone;  Messrs.  Henry 
& Jesse  Cooper,  Monrovia,  Liberia  ; Rev.  Clement  Irons, 
Mehlenburgh,  Liberia;  Rev.  William  Barleycorn,  Fer- 
nando Po;  Mr.  Francis  J.  Steane,  Victoria ; King  Bell  and 
Prince  Manga  Bell,  Bell  Town,  Cameroons;  Mr.  Antonio 
Andre  Mari,  Black  Point;  Mr.  G.  T.  Samuel,  Boma, 
Congo;  Captain  Eversfield,  Purser  Humphreys,  and  Chief 
Engineer  Irving,  of  the  Steamship  “ Benguela  ; ” Captain 
Walsh,  of  the  Steamship  “ Bakana,”aud  Mr.  Roland  Cole, 
Colonial  Postmaster  of  the  Gold  Coast  Colony. 


• INTRODUCTION. 


HE  nineteenth  century,  which  will  soon  be  numbered 


with  the  past,  has  been  one  of  eventful  resources.  It 
came  in  amid  stir,  wars,  revolutions,  national  upheavals, 
and  new  political  experiments  ; but  the  activities,  stir,  and 
adventures  were  prompted  by  human  ambition  and  nation- 
al greed.  Nearly  the  whole  civilized  world  either  had  war 
on  hand  or  one  in  contemplation,  or  had  just  emerged 
from  the  smoke  of  battle.  The  spirit  of  conquest  had  been 
fed  by  the  lust  of  power  for  so  long  anterior  to  this  event 
that  distinction  appeared  to  rest  alone  upon  those  who  were 
the  most  relentless  in  imbruing  their  hands  in  the  blood  of 
their  neighbors,  and  this  gory  greed  reached  its  culmina- 
tion in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century.  Napoleon 
Bonaparte  appeal’s  to  have  been  raised  up  in  the  negative 
providence  of  God  to  glut  this  inordinate  ambition,  and 
teach  the  world  the  folly  of  such  a course.  International 
treaties  followed,  feuds  and  misunderstandings  were  adjust- 
ed and  settled,  and  an  appeal  to  arms  was  no  longer  resort- 
ed to  when  mutual  blunders  occurred,  as  had  previously 
been  the  case  ; nor  has  the  bloody  drama  been  the  universal 
play  of  nations  since  the  downfall  of  Napoleon,  for  selfish 
ambition  became  gorged  with  blood,  and  stood  aghast  be- 
fore bleaching  bones  and  the  wails  of  widows  and  children. 
True,  we  have  had  wars  since,  and  sanguinary  strife  has 
marked  the  progress  of  the  nations,  but  their  career  of 
blood  and  carnage  has  been  but  temporary,  and  every  dec- 
ade is  lessening  the  number,  mitigating  the  causes,  and 
increasing  the  horrors  for  such  a condition  of  things. 


(9) 


10 


Introduction. 


But  the  latter  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  has  pro- 
duced a marvelous  change.  Men  are  still  ambitious,  aspir- 
ing, pursuers  of  fame,  lovers  of  admiration,  and  are  equal- 
ly heroic.  They  still  risk,  dare,  venture,  and  battle  with 
obstacles,  and  desire  and  expect  the  approval  of  their  day 
and  generation  in  some  form  or  another.  It  is  human  na- 
ture to  be  pleased  with  a smile. 

A hearty  handshake  imparts  a solace  when  we  feel  it  is 
given  in  recognition  of  services  rendered  or  victories 
achieved.  No  sane  man,  in  the  exercise  of  his  normal 
powers,  is  satisfied  to  be  the  whole  absorbent  of  his  own 
glory.  It  lends  extra  pleasure  to  have  others  share  with 
him.  But  no  longer  is  glory,  honor,  and  renown  regarded 
as  a postulate  of  war  and  domination  over  others,  or  of  the 
degradation,  sorrow,  and  anguish  of  others. 

The  pride  of  merit  is  now  associated  with  benefaction. 
Who  can  do  the  most  to  enlighten,  help,  and  elevate  the 
wt rid  is  the  voice  that  sounds  and  echoes  from  human  en- 
deavor. A new  dispensation  is  upon  us.  Men  give  their 
millions  to  help  the  poor  and  to  educate  the  ignorant; 
others  spend  sleepless  nights  in  planning  to  unite  the  mass- 
es on  some  line  of  great  reform  ; others  in  comparative  ob- 
scurity come  forth  from  their  private  retreats  with  new  in- 
ventions, after  years  of  study  and  experiment,  which  lift 
the  burden  of  labor  and  toil  from  the  shoulders  of  millions, 
and  their  names  go  flaming  down  to  the  future  ; othersare 
piercing  the  jungles  of  every  clime  and  catching  by  instru- 
mental skill  the  pictures  and  mirages  of  every  land  and 
sea,  and  reproducing  them  in  books,  to  enable  millions  to 
sit  in  their  homes  and  inspect  the  entire  globe,  with  its  val- 
leys, hills,  mountains,  lakes,  deserts,  landscapes,  cities,  and 
peoples  of  every  size,  color,  and  nationality.  And  thus 
we  might  continue  to  instance,  by  way  of  delineation  and 


Introduction. 


11 


illustration,  to  show  grandeur  in  human  endeavor  in  a va- 
riety of  forms  almost  infinite;  and  while  peril  is  necessa- 
rily encountered,  it  is  not  the  peril  of  bloodthirsty  ambition, 
when  danger  confronts  the  invader  of  household  and  fami- 
ly comforts,  as  formerly  prevailed — even  in  the  early  part 
of  this  century. 

The  Negro,  colored  man,  Afro  American,  or  whatever 
name  the  reader  may  prefer,  is  not  sitting  idly  by,  while 
the  mighty  host  of  meritorious  men  in  the  arena  of  the  va- 
rious professions  and  beneficial  industries  are  ascending  the 
hills  in  quest  of  the  summit  of  distinction.  We  are  men, 
to  all  intents  and  purposes,  possessed  of  all  the  inspirations, 
aspirations,  and  virtues  incident  to  human  nature  in  gen- 
eral. Thus  we  are  procuring  homes,  beautifying  them, 
educating  our  children,  entering  the  professions  of  medi- 
cine, law,  sacred  ministry,  the  various  branches  of  litera- 
ture, and  all  that  belong  to  the  higher  branches  of  civil- 
ized Jife. 

Up  to  the  present,  however,  our  chief  success  has  been, 
as  Dr.  Derrick  would  say,  in  the  “ Republic  of  letters.” 
The  numerous  schools  and  colleges  which  have  been  estab- 
lished of  late  years,  the  hundreds  of  newspapers  and  other 
periodicals  which  we  are  publishing,  with  the  large  num- 
ber of  books  which  we  are  sending  from  the  press  daily, 
discussing  every  subject,  to  a greater  or  less  degree,  almost 
in  the  sphere  of  pantology,  give  attestation  to  the  intellect- 
ual fertility  of  the  colored  man’s  brain  to  an  extent  that 
the  world  is  compelled  to  look  on  and  say,  “ Well  done  ! ” 

But  while  knowledge  in  all  of  its  departments  is  univer- 
sal (for  it  must  be  of  necessity,  if  it  is  genuine  knowledge), 
there  is,  nevertheless,  a racial  and  denominational  color- 
ing which  instinctively  is  stated  to  better  advantage  when 
one  of  the  race  or  the  denomination  is  the  narrator.  It 


12 


Introduction. 


appears  to  be  impossible  for  a white  man  or  woman,  be 
they  friend  or  foe,  to  tell  the  exact  truth  when  they  are  re- 
lating or  discussing  the  merits  or  demerits  of  the  colored  race. 

We  do  not  mean  to  imply  that  the  Negro  does  not  often 
misstate  and  misrepresent  facts,  both  willfully  and  ignorant- 
ly, and  very  often  maliciously,  but  even  then  those  familiar 
with  our  people  and  their  special  habitudes  and  characteris- 
tics will  discover  a familiarity  in  the  terms  employed  through- 
out the  story  or  narrative.  And,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
white  people  are  so  thoroughly  convinced  that  the  black  man 
cannot  do  them  justice  that  they  neither  trust  him  nor  any 
other  race  to  write  their  shortcomings  or  deeds  of  valor 
and  greatness.  Bancroft  in  his  history  represents  Este 
Vanico  Dorantes,  the  great  discoverer  of  New  Mexico,  as  a 
brutal  and  cruel  Negro,  while  the  Spanish  historian  ranks 
him  as  the  Negro  Columbus,  and  entitled  to  the  gratitude 
of  humanity. 

Rev.  Charles  S.  Smith,  I).  D.,  who  projected,  organ- 
ized, and  battled  with  opposition,  wrestled  with  criticism, 
defied  his  opposers,  scorned  his  contemners,  and  practi- 
cally created  something  out  of  nothing,  has  given  the  A. 
M.  E.  Church  a department  which  towers  over  all  others, 
and  makes  any  attempt  at  comparison  ridiculous.  Like 
Alexander  of  old,  he  desired  a new  domain  for  the  exercise 
of  his  intellectual  prowess,  and  selected  Africa,  the  giant 
continent  of  the  world,  as  the  field  for  his  gladiatorial  risk 
and  venture.  He  says  he  was  prompted  in  going  to  Africa : 
“ First.  To  gratify  a long-cherished  desire  to  see  that  coun- 
try. Second.  To  see  what  the  European  is  doing  there. 
Third.  To  see  what  the  African  himself  is  doing.  Fourth. 
To  gain  a knowledge  of  the  operations  of  missionary  ef- 
forts. Fifth.  To  study  the  effect  of  the  climate  upon  the 
human  constitution  Sixth.  To  see  if  there  are  any  open- 


Intro  d action. 


lo 


ings  for  the  employment  of  the  skill  and  energy  of  intelli- 
gent and  industrious  young  Americans  of  African  descent.” 

The  reasons  above  stated  were  a sufficient  incentive  to 
impel  a man  of  worth  and  merit  to  defy  consequences,  and 
make  the  sacrifice  for  the  good  of  others,  while  selfishness 
would  have  frozen  the  energies  of  a man  who  had  no  con- 
cern beyond  his  own  ease  and  comforts.  England,  and  in- 
deed all  of  the  European  countries,  have  recognized  their 
African  explorers  as  men  possessed  of  heroic  courage,  and 
those  who  have  dared  to  pierce  the  jungles  of  that  conti- 
nent, and  wrestle  with  its  tropical  malaria,  strange  dis- 
eases, sultry  valleys,  carnivorous  heasts,  poisonous  reptiles, 
and  torturing  insects,  have  been  titled,  honored  with  pre- 
ferment, made  the  guests  of  royalty,  and,  like  the  illustri- 
ous Livingstone,  complimented  with  a sarcophagus  in 
Westminster  Abbey,  which  is  the  most  exalted  recogni- 
tion that  England  can  pay  to  her  meritorious  dead. 

In  this  country,  however,  the  insanity  of  color  prejudice 
has  been  a bar  to  any  considerable  endeavor  and  sacrifice 
being  made  in  connection  with  Africa,  and  nearly  all  of 
the  information  that  we  have  happily  obtained  has  come 
through  European  adventurers  and  explorers. 

But  Dr.  Smith,  the  author  of  the  well-written  and  illus- 
trated work,  entitled  “ Glimpses  of  Africa,”  has  been  raised 
up,  as  we  believe,  in  the  providence  of  God,  to  set  before 
the  reading  public — and  especially  the  colored  portion  of 
it — a narrative  of  his  observations,  with  a variety  of  illus- 
trations which  will  enhance  interest  in  the  natural  sceneries 
and  resources  of  that  country  to  an  extent  that  will  arouse 
disinterested  thousands,  and  awaken  the  spirit  of  investi- 
gation in  connection  with  the  Negro  which  has  heretofore 
been  dormant.  H.  M.  Turner. 

Atlanta,  Ga.,  February  16,  1895, 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Preface 5 

Introduction 9 

Contents 15 

List  of  Maps  and  Illustrations 17 

PART  I. 

Chapter  I. — Preliminary  Statement 21 

Chapter  II. — Europe  in  Africa 27 

Chapter  III. — The  Purpose  of  the  European 50 

Chapter  IY. — The  African  in  Africa 67 

Chapter  V.— Missionary  Enterprises  . . 86 

Chapter  VI. — Climatic  Conditions 117 

Chapter  VII. — No  Special  Inducements  Offered 131 

PART  II. 

Personal  Memoranda 147 

Appendix 287 

(15) 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


— Page 

Map  of  Africa 28 

Map  of  West  and  Southwest  Coast 146 

Map  of  Liberia 250 

The  Partitioning  of  Africa 26 

Freetown,  Sierra  Leone 30 

Part  View  of  Libreville,  Gaboon 34 

Fernando  Po 37 

Part  View  of  Cameroons  Town 41 

St.  Paul  de  Loanda 45 

Imperial  Barracks,  Freetown 51 

Repairing  Telephone  Wires,  Gaboon 56 

Congolese  Soldiers 56 

Rev.  William  Barleycorn,  Fernando  Po  66 

Rev.  and  Mrs.  Wilson,  Victoria 66 

Frederick  R.  C.  Lutterodt,  Photographer,  Accra 71 

D.  Olawale  Labinjo,  Photographer,  Lagos 71 

A Dwalla  Woman 76 

An  Ambriz  W oman 76 

A Mandinile  Bride  (front  view) 80 

A Mandinile  Bride  (side  view) 80 

Mbuti  Men 84 

Batta  Natives i 84 

Fetiches  and  Worshiper 87 

Juju  or  Medicine  Man 87 

Natives  Preparing  Food — 93 

A Cabenda  Girl 93 

Mpongwe  Cannibals 99 

Dwalla  People • 99 

Catholic  Church  and  School,  Fernando  Po 105 

Catholic  School,  Eloby  Island 105 

A Lagos  Mohammedan 112 

A Congo  Musician 112 

Boys’  Grammar  School,  Freetown 134 

Prof.  O.  Moore,  Prin.  of  Boys’  Grammar  School,  Freetown,  140 
G.  L.  Lutterodt,  Photographer,  Accra 140 


(17) 


18  List  of  Maps  and  Illustrations. 

Paso 

Exterior  of  Christ’s  Church,  Lagos 162 

Interior  of  Christ’s  Church,  Lagos 162 

Botanical  Garden,  Victoria 167 

A Street  in  Bell  Town 172 

Prince  Manga  Bell  and  Wives 176 

A Cape  Lopez  Girl 176 

C.  S.  Smith  and  His  Adopted  Family  of  1) walla  Children..  .179 

The  African  Telephone 183 

A Cameroons  Stool 183 

Big  Batanga  Falls 187 

Government  Building,  Eloby  Island 193 

Gaboon  Women 198 

A Congo  Girl 198 

Telegraph  Building,  Gaboon 202 

Mrs.  Barbour’s  House,  Fernando  Po 202 

Part  View  of  Cabenda 207 

Noqui,  Congo 211 

Matadi,  Congo 215 

Native  Cemetery,  Old  Vivi 219 

Cabenda  Boys 223 

A Landana  Woman  and  Brothers  223 

Banana  Point,  Mouth  of  the  Congo  River 227 

A Loanda  Chief 231 

A Loanda  Octoroon 231 

Part  View  of  Landana 236 

Catholic  School,  St.  Antonio,  Congo  239 

High  Caste  Accra  People 246 

Accra  Men 246 

Inside  View  of  Aruwimi  Shield 251 

Outside  View  of  Aruwimi  Shield 252 

Monrovia,  Liberia 257 

Monument  to  ex-President  Roberts 263 

The  Executive  Mansion,  Monrovia 263 

Mountsurado  River,  Monrovia 267 

Gen.  R.  A.  Sherman’s  Place,  Monrovia 267 

War  Implements  of  the  Aruwimi  People 273 

A Collection  of  Curios — Domestic  Articles 279 

Specimens  of  Native  Cloth,  Mats,  etc 283 


PART  FIRST 


REV.  GEORGE  DECKER.  PROF.  H.  M.  STEADY. 

REV.  J.  R.  FREDERICK.  MR.  GEORGE  BOYLE. 

C.  S.  SMITH. 

[From  a photograph  taken  at  Free  Town,  Sierra  Leone.] 


CHAPTER  I, 


Preliminary  Statements. 


To  see  Africa  from  America  is  one  thing; 

To  see  Africa  through  books  and  magazines  is  one  thing  ; 
To  see  Africa  through  reports  and  hearsay  is  one  thing ; 
To  see  Africa  through  dreams  and  visions  is  one  thing; 
But  to  see  Africa  in  Africa  is  another  thing. 


PROPOS  of  the  above,  and  in  order  that  the 


reader  may  know  what  my  views  were  con- 
cerning Africa  before  going  there,  and  what  a rad- 
ical change  they  underwent  after  reaching  there,  I 
have  deemed  it  advisable  to  reproduce  here  the 
subjoined  article,  which  was  first  printed  in  the 
Nashville  (Term.)  Evening  Herald,  of  January  25, 
1890.  I do  not  regard  any  remark  or  comment 
necessary,  other  than  to  say  that  I frankly  confess 
to  error  of  judgment,  the  result  of  seeing  Africa 
from  afar. 

To  the  Herald:  Your  issue  of  the  20th  inst.  contains  an  edito- 
rial on  Africa’s  future  which  in  my  opinion  embraces  the  most 
candid  expressions  that  I have  ever  read  concerning  the  pur- 
pose of  the  Caucasian  to  ultimately  dominate  that  land.  From 
the  editorial  referred  to  I cptote  the  following : “ Humanitarians 
may  mourn  over  the  fact,  but  the  irrepressible,  land-seeking 
Caucasian  has  set  his  eyes  upon  Africa,  and  he  is  going  to  pos- 
sess it,  in  the  full  sense  of  the  word.”  In  this  statement  you 
express  but  a part  of  the  truth,  so  far  as  it  concerns  the  ambi- 
tion of  the  Caucasian.  Not  only  has  the  Caucasian  set  his  eyes 
upon  Africa,  but  upon  every  other  part  of  the  world  which  is 


(21) 


22 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


not  at  this  time  in  his  control  and  possession.  I give  you  full 
credit  for  stating  even  half  of  the  truth  concerning  the  purpose 
of  the  Caucasian  to  attain  to  universal  domination.  I postulate 
that  if  Caucasian  civilization  is  to  be  the  last  cycle  in  the  evo- 
lution of  civilization,  its  influence  will  become  everywhere  dom- 
inant, and  its  arms  universally  triumphant.  The  Caucasian 
now  holds  in  his  hands  the  destiny  of  the  world.  Blot  out 
Caucasian  civilization,  and  all  that  is  worth  preserving  in  liter- 
ature, art,  science,  etc.,  would  be  lost— that  is,  speaking  from 
the  standpointof  modern  achievements.  I glory  in  all  thatthe 
Caucasian  has  achieved  for  civilization  and  the  world’s  advance- 
ment. I do  not  believe,  however,  that  Caucasian  civilization  is 
to  be  the  last  cycle  in  the  evolution  of  the  world’s  civilization. 
I believe  it  is  to  be  superseded  by  another  cycle  in  the  evolu- 
tion of  civilization,  which  will  perhaps  be  the  last  that  the 
world  will  witness.  The  Caucasian  may  be  said  to  be  the  Je- 
hovah of  the  civilization  of  this  age,  and  if  he  is  not  om- 
niscient he  is  omnipotent  and  omnipresent.  Of  course  I do 
not  use  the  terms  “omnipotent”  and  “omnipresent”  toward 
the  Caucasian  in  the  same  sense  as  they  are  used  in  referring 
to  the  Deity. 

Man  is  limited  in  his  powers  and  possibilities.  Tn  every  age 
of  the  world  some  one  tribe,  race,  or  nation  has  led  all  the  oth- 
er tribes,  races,  or  nations.  The  Caucasian  is  now  in  the  lead 
— in  the  zenith  of  his  glory  and  power.  Standing  upon  the  pin- 
nacle of  his  achievements,  he  can  fairly  repeat  the  saying  as- 
cribed to  Robinson  Crusoe:  “I  am  monarch  of  all  I survey.” 
Still,  while  that  “ Divinity  that  shapes  our  ends,  rough-hew 
them  as  we  may,”  in  the  eternal  evolution  of  things  has  thrown 
the  Caucasian  into  the  front  and  on  top,  does  it  necessarily  fol- 
low that  he  will  always  hold  the  high,  commanding  position 
which  he  occupies  to-day? 

I do  not  believe  that  the  Caucasian  will  ever  dominate  Africa. 
The  higher  forces  of  his  civilization  may  prevail  there,  but  they 
will  be  controlled  and  shaped  and  guided  by  native  Africans. 
I believe  that  every  race  or  nation  will  have  its  day,  and  at 
some  time  in  the  evolution  of  the  world’s  civilization  reach  the 
ascendency.  Africa  has  not  yet  had  her  day — at  least  I am  not 


Preliminary  Statements. 


23 


able  to  discover  historical  evidence  to  the  contrary  that  has 
been  satisfactory  to  me.  I am  a firm  believer  in  the  prophetic 
announcement  that  “the  last  shall  be  the  first,”  and  that  Ethi- 
opia, or  the  “ Dark  Continent,”  shall  yet  stretch  forth  her  hands 
unto  God. 

Some  years  ago  representatives  of  the  leading  European 
powers  held  a conference,  or  congress,  and  carved  out  the  rich- 
est and  most  fertile  portions  of  Central  Africa  into  what  is  now 
knowm  as  the  Congo  Free  State,  and  this  they  did  without  con- 
sulting the  aborigines  of  Africa  as  to  their  wishes  in  the  matter. 
In  fact,  the  “land-seeking  Caucasian”  said  nothing  to  them 
about  it  in  any  manner,  shape,  or  form.  Thousands  of  miles 
away  from  Africa,  inspired  and  led  by  the  King  of  Belgium, 
they  issued  their  dictum  as  to  its  future,  and  took  possession 
of  the  fairest  part  of  that  land  without  warrant  or  deed.  The 
success  of  their  self-assumption  in  the  matter  is  yet  to  be 
attested. 

Tbe  actual  population  of  Africa  has  not  yet  been  made  known, 
but  tbe  best  authorities  agree  that  its  unmixed  population  num- 
bers at  least  200,000,000.  This  number  of  people,  occupying 
their  own  soil,  constitutes  a power  that  is  not  to  be  despised  or 
easily  overcome.  Certain  tribes  of  Africa,  now  in  their  savage 
state,  have  already  made  England,  Germany,  and  France  anx- 
ious as  to  the  permanency  of  their  present  possessions  in  that 
land.  I differ  from  you  in  the  statement  that  the  millions  of 
blacks  in  this  country,  should  they  desire  to  go  to  Africa,  would 
not  be  welcomed  there.  The  world  concedes  the  right  of  the  Af- 
rican and  his  descendants  to  dwell  in  Africa;  and  if  the  millions 
of  blacks  in  this  country  ever  attain  to  true  manhood,  freedom, 
and  independence,  it  will  be  in  the  land  of  their  ancestors.  In 
the  evolution  of  the  w'orld’s  forces,  in  the  shaping  of  its  destiny, 
we  must  never  forget  that  Providence  is  the  controlling  force. 
There  will  be  no  immediate  emigration  of  blacks  in  large  num- 
bers from  America  to  Africa.  They  have  not  yet  passed  through 
the  forty  years  of  their  wilderness  state  since  their  emancipa- 
tion. The  old  slave  class  will  continue  until  death  to  sigh  for 
the  good  old  times  that  are  passed,  while  the  old  master  class 
will  not  voluntarily  consent  to  see  them  exiled  from  their  hum- 


24 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


ble  cabins  on  the  old  plantations.  Many  of  the  rising  genera- 
tion may  be  content  to  black  boots  and  clean  spittoons  in  the 
service  of  white  employers,  but  there  will  be  a class  with  edu- 
cated minds,  trained  hands,  and  manly  hearts,  who  will  refuse 
to  have  these  qualities  forever  dwarfed  by  the  overshadowing 
presence  of  the  Caucasian.  This  class  will  as  naturally  and  as 
voluntarily  turn  their  faces  toward  Africa  as  do  certain  birds  on 
the  approach  of  winter  leave  their  northern  homes  for  sunny 
climes. 

The  establishment  of  the  Republic  of  Liberia  on  the  West 
Coast  of  Africa,  by  American  statesmen  and  philanthropists, 
was  not  an  accident.  Those  who  led  in  that  movement  built 
wiser  than  they  knew'.  The  Republic  of  Liberia  controls  a 
stretch  of  country  sufficient  to  give  more  than  foi  ty  acres  of  land 
to  the  head  of  every  Afro-American  family.  Its  interior  pos- 
sessions are  as  fertile  and  as  healthy  as  any  portion  of  Africa. 
In  America  the  Negroes,  as  a class,  will  never  be  anything  more 
than  servants  and  scullions.  In  my  opinion  there  is  no  section 
of  the  country  where  the  white  man  will  ever  admit  the  Negro 
to  termsof  industrial,  commercial,  and  political  equality.  Doubt- 
less Israel  would  not  have  left  Egypt  of  their  own  accord,  and 
even  before  they  had  reached  the  Red  Sea  they  hungered  and 
sighed  for  the  leeks  and  onions  with  which  their  oppressors  had 
fed  them.  Thousandsof  Negroes  seem  to  abhor  the  very  name 
of  Africa,  by  reason  of  their  love  for  the  old  home  and  the  mem- 
ories of  early  days;  while  thousands  of  others,  deceived  by 
flattering  if  not  false  friends,  comfort  themselves  with  the  hope 
(which  can  only  end  in  despair)  that  the  Caucasian  in  America 
will  at  last  embrace  them  in  their  arms,  and  take  them  into  full 
partnership  in  industrial,  commercial,  social,  and  political  lines. 

This  is  only  a brief  outline  of  my  views  touching  the  subject 
referred  to,  and  I conclude  by  thanking  you  for  your  honest 
and  candid  expressions  as  to  the  purpose  and  ambition  of  the 
Caucasian  to  dominate  Africa,  to  which  1 will  also  add  the 
whole  w7orld.  C.  S.  Smith. 

January  24,  1890 


CHAPTER  II. 


Europe  in  Africa. 

THE  four  years  1891  to  1894  have  seen  a great 
advance  of  Europe  in  Africa,  and  many  “ spheres 
of  influence  ” have  been  precisely  defined. 

Serious  efforts  have  also  been  made  to  develop 
the  resources  of  the  vast  regions  which  European 
Powers  have  undertaken  to  lift  upward  to  a higher 
plane  of  civilization.  If  the  successes  achieved 
have  not  often  been  sufficiently  great  to  satisfy  the 
more  impatient  spirits,  and  if  the  means  employed 
have  in  man}'  instances  failed  to  gain  the  approval 
of  “philanthropists,”  it  must  nevertheless  be  ad- 
mitted that  real  progress  has  been  made  in  several 
directions. 

For  proof  that  the  European  conscience  is  alive 
to  its  duty  toward  the  African,  we  may  refer  to  the 
“General  Act”  of  the  Anti-Slavery  Conference, 
which  met  at  Brussels  in  1891.  This  “Act”  ap- 
plies to  the  whole  of  Africa,  from  Latitude  20° 
North  to  Latitude  22°  South,  and  is  more  especial- 
ly directed  to  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade  in 
the  interior,  the  prohibition  of  the  importation  of 
firearms,  and  the  restriction  of  the  trade  in  alco- 
holic drinks.  An  International  Slavery  Commis- 
sion, constituted  in  accordance  with  this  “Act,” 

(27) 


28 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

met  for  the  first  time  at  Zanzibar,  in  November, 
1892,  under  the  presidency  of  Sir  Geral  Portal. 

We  begin  our  survey  of  the  European  Possessions 
in  Africa  with  those  of  Great  Britain. 


The  British  Possessions  in  Africa  fall  into  four 
groups,  viz.,  British  Guinea,  South  Africa,  Eastern 
Africa,  and  the  African  Islands.  Though  inferior 
to  “ French  Africa  ” in  area,  the  British  Possessions 


FREETOWN,  SIERRA  LEONE  (BRITISH). 


Europe  in  Africa. 


31 


far  exceed  it  in  population,  and  probably  also  in 
their  potential  capacities.  Although  the  old  colo- 
nies on  the  Guinea  Coast  have  been  shut  off  from 
their  “Hinterland,”  or  back  countries,  through  the 
energetic  action  of  France,  and  in  Eastern  Africa 
a large  territory  complacently  looked  upon  as  a 
natural  inheritance  of  this  country  has  been  surren- 
dered to  Germany,  there  still  remains  a large  area 
in  this  quarter  (Ibea),  in  addition  to  the  Niger  ter- 
ritories, with  millions  of  semi-civilized  natives,  and 
South  Africa,  the  only  part  of  the  dark  continent 
lit  to  become  the  permanent  home  of  a northern 
race.  The  question  whether  Tropical  Africa  is  lit 
for  the  permanent  residence  of  Europeans  is  most 
likely  to  be  settled  by  an  advance  from  the  South. 
Even  now  British  South  Africa,  with  the  allied 
Boer  States,  has  a European  population  of  650,000 
souls,  as  compared  with  510,000  Europeans  in  Alge- 
ria and  Tunis;  and  while  most  of  the  former  are 
bona  fide  settlers,  the  European  population  of  the 
French  dependencies  includes  quite  a dispropor- 
tionate number  of  military  men  and  functionaries. 

Commercially  the  preponderance  of  “British  Af- 
rica” is  marked.  The  total  trade  of  Africa  has 
been  estimated  at  about  $235,000,000  of  imports, 
and  the  same  value  of  exports;  of  these  $95,000,000 
of  imports  and  $90,000,000  of  exports  are  due  to 
British  Africa,  while  French  A frica  imports  $70,- 
000,000  and  exports  $60,000,000. 

Nearly  all  the  boundaries  of  tbe  British  Posses- 
sions have  been  defined.  The  following  is  a state- 


32  Glimpses  of  Africa. 

meat  of  the  British  Possessions  and  Protectorates 
in  Africa : 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

In.  to  Sq.  M. 

4,120 
27  730 

60,000 

480,000 

1,800,000 

3,000,000 

24,380,000 

15 

17 

52  990 

38 

21  100 

143 

Niger  Territories  & Oil  Rivers. 

375,190 

65 

481,130 

29,720,000 

62 

225  690 

1,800,000 

550.000 

200.000 
220,000 

60,400 

100,000 

400,000 

3,000,000 

8 

Natal  

16,740 

4.540 

33 

18 

10,290 

54,610 

117,860 

252,880 

285,900 

21 

British  Bechuana  Land  

Bechuana  Land  Protectorate. . 
Matebele  and  Mashona  Lands. 

1 

1 

2 

10 

975,510 

6,330,400 

7 

Zanzibar  and  Pemba  (Protect- 
orate ) 

960 

210,000 

219 

Ibea  to  10°  N 6°  N 

449,570 

218,110 

1,382 

67,000 

4.500.000 

1.858.000 
10,000 

200,000 

10 

8 

7 

Ibea  6°  to  10°  N 

3 

British  East  Africa 

741,300 

6,778.000 

D 

Mauritius  and  Dependencies  . 
St.  Helena,  Ascension,  and 
Tristan  da.flnnha..  

1,090 

126 

395,000 

4,300 

363 

34 

British  Africa 

2,199,160 

43,227,700 

20 

French  Africa. — Prance  is  at  the  present  time  the 
claimant  to  the  largest  area  in  Africa,  and  there  are 
not  wanting  enthusiasts  in  that  country  who  dream 


PART  VIEW  OF  LIBREVILLE,  GABOON  (FRENCH). 


Europe  in  Africa. 


35 


of  the  foundation  of  an  African  Empire  stretching 
from  the  Mediterranean  to  the  Congo,  and  thence 
to  the  Nile.  England  has  conceded  liberty  to  France 
to  occupy  the  whole  of  the  Sahara  to  the  north  of 
a line  extending  from  near  Sai  on  the  Niger  to  Lake 
Tchad,  leaving  the  whole  of  the  Gando,  Sokoto, 
and  Bornu  within  the  British  sphere.  French  ter- 
ritory is  thus  made  continuous  from  Algeria  to  the 
Niger,  but  no  attempt  has  as  yet  been  made  to  oc- 
cupy this  vast  and  inhospitable  region. 

The  schemes  of  Mons.  G.  Bolland,  and  of  others, 
who  propose  to  build  Saharan  railways  to  Lake 
Tchad  and  Timbuctoo,  are  not  likely  to  he  favora- 
bly entertained  for  a considerable  time  to  come. 
But,  putting  aside  all  these  Utopian  schemes,  it 
must  nevertheless  be  conceded  that  France  is  mak- 
ing serious  and  successful  efforts  to  extend  and  con- 
solidate her  African  Possessions. 

This  is  more  especially  the  case  in  Senegambia, 
the  Western  Soudan,  and  on  the  Guinea  Coast, 
where  the  British  colonies  of  Gambia  and  Sierra 
Leone  are  already  surrounded  by  French  territory, 
arid  a similar  fate  seems  to  be  in  store  for  the  Gold 
Coast.  The  colonial  expenditure  of  France  is  very 
considerable.  Algeria  alone  between  1830-88  cost 
$700,000,000,  and  it  is  difficult  to  say  what  the  an- 
nual deficit  amounts  to  now.  The  expenditure  on 
the  other  African  colonies  exceeds  their  revenues 
to  the  extent  of  $4,515,000. 

The  French  territories  in  Africa  are  as  follows: 


36 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

In.  to  Sq.  M. 

Algeria 

309,580 

4,175,000 

13 

Tunis 

50,840 

1,500,000 

3o 

Sahara 

1,083,550 

2,500,000 

1.5 

Senegambia,  Guinea,  Soudan. 

481 ,530 

8,200,000 

17 

French  Congo 

490,920 

8,950,000 

18 

Wadi,  Bagirmi,  Kaueru 

105,650 

3,730,000 

23 

Obok  (Taj  ura  Bay) 

8,040 

30,000 

3 

to adagascar  and  Dependencies 

228,560 

3 500,000 

15 

Comoros 

760 

62,000 

81 

.Reunion 

760 

168,000 

221 

French  Africa.. 

3,426,790 

32,815,000 

10 

Spanish  Af  rica. — Spain,  in  addition  to  the  Canaries, 
the  “ Presidios  ” (Tetnan,  and  other  coast  places  in 
northern  Morocco),  Ifni  (ceded  by  Morocco  in  1883, 
but  not  occupied),  and  Fernando  Po  and  other  is- 
lands in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  also  claims  a large  slice 
of  theWestern  Sahara.  In  1884  and  1886thewhole 
of  the  coast  from  Cape  Blanco  to  the  Boca  Grande 
(28°  20'  H.)  was  declared  a Protectorate.  In  1886 
treaties  with  inland  tribes  (Adrar)  were  made,  and 
a boundary  treaty  concluded  with  France,  which 
defines  the  parallel  of  21°  21'  FL,  as  separating  the 
Possessions  of  the  two  Powers.  The  only  Spanish 
settlement  within  this  region  is  at  the  Bio  cle  Oro 
(23°  30'  FT.),  and  this  is  fa.  interior  to  the  English 
factories  established  at  Cape  Juby  long  before  the 
Spaniards  were  heard  of,  but  never  officially  recog- 
nized, and  quite  recently  at  the  Sagiat  el  Hamra. 

In  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  Spain  holds  the  islands  of 
Fernando  Po,  Annobom,  Corisco,  and  Eloby;  but 
her  claim  to  a considerable  territory  on  the  main- 


FERNANDO  PO  ISLAND  (SPANISH). 


39 


Europe v in  Africa. 

land  in  Corisco  Bay  lias  been  successfully  disputed 
by  France.  By  an  agreement  between  the  two  coun- 
tries (January,  1891),  the  Spanish  claim  is  limited 
to  Cape  San  Juan,  but  Spanish  vessels  and  traders 
are  freely  permitted  to  navigate  the  rivers  Benito 
and  Muni. 

The  Spanish  territories  in  Africa  are  as  follows  : 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

In.  to  Sq.  M. 

2,820 

292.000 
16,000 

100.000 
35,000 

104 

Tptnun  TCtc.  (Morocco) 

30 

533 

150,100 

884 

1 

40 

153,834 

443,000 

3 

German  Africa.  — German  rule  in  Africa  only 
dates  from  1884,  in  which  year  the  late  Dr.  SFach- 
tigal  hoisted  the  German  flag  at  various  points 
along  the  West  Coast,  while  Dr.  Peters  negotiated 
“ treaties”  with  a number  of  chiefs  at  the  back  of 
the  Zanzibar  Coast.  The  conventions  subsequent- 
ly concluded  with  England  (1884,  1885,1886, 1889, 
1890,1893),  Portugal  (1886),  and  France  (1885, 1894), 
leave  Germany  in  possession  of  four  distinct  colo- 
nies. Togo  Land,  which  is  hemmed  in  between 
the  British  Gold  Coast  and  French  Benin,  is  the 
least  of  these,  although  the  most  densely  peopled. 
Its  northern  boundary  has  not  yet  been  defined. 

In  the  Cameroons  territory  the  cultivation  of 
coffee  and  cocoa  has  been  successfully  introduced, 


40 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

Several  stations  have  been  established  in  the  inte- 
rior, as  in  virtue  of  a treaty  with  France  this 
“ sphere”  now  stretches  northward  as  far  as  Lake 
Tchad. 

The  countries  of  the  Kama  and  Damara,  in  South- 
western Africa,  appear  to  have  disappointed  expec- 
tation. A German  “ Colonial  Society”  which  had 
been  entrusted  with  their  development  exhausted 
its  resources  without  having  achieved  the  slightest 
success. 

In  German  East  Africa,  after  the  Sultan  of  Zan- 
zibar had  reluctantly  ceded  the  whole  of  the  coast 
on  payment  of  $1,000,000  (November  20, 1890),  the 
administration  was  placed  in  the  able  hands  of  Ma- 
jor Wissmann,  as  Imperial  Commissioner,  a post 
transferred  in  April,  1891,  to  Baron  Soden,  and 
again,  in  September,  1893,  to  Colonel  Scheie.  Since 
then  considerable  progress  has  been  made,  notwith- 
standing repeated  conflicts  with  some  of  the  native 
tribes,  the  most  serious  of  which  culminated  in  the 
almost  total  annihilation  of  an  expeditionary  force 
under  Lieutenant  Zelewski  by  the  Wahehe  (August 
17.1891). 

The  total  trade  of  all  German  Africa  (imports 
and  exports)  does  not  exceed  at  present  $7,215,000, 
and  of  this  only  $2,875,000  is  direct  with  Germany. 
The  line  of  steamers  sailing  from  Hamburg  to  East- 
ern Africa  does  not  pay,  notwithstanding  a consid- 
erable Imperial  subsidy. 

The  German  territories  in  Africa  are  as  follows: 


PART  VIEW  OF  CAMEROONS  TOWN,  CAMEROONS  RIVER  (GERMAN). 


\ 


- 'S.',.  ■ - • ?-• 


Europe  in  Africa.  43 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

Togo  Land  (Guinea  Coast) 

* 

19,660 

800,000 

4.570.000 
200,000 

2.800.000 

Cameroons 

193,570 

S.  W.  Africa  (Nama  and  Damara) 

320,540 

351,040 

East  Africa,  with  Mafia 

German  Afi-ica 

884,810 

8,370,000 

Portuguese  Africa,. — Recent  treaties  with  France 
(May  12, 1886),  Germany  (December  30,  1886),  Bel- 
gium (May  25,  1891,  and  June  26,  1893),  and  En- 
gland (May  28,  1891,  and  May  21,  1893),  have  con- 
siderably curtailed  the  “ Possessions”  at  one  time 
claimed  by  Portugal.  But  though  these  Posses- 
sions are  twenty-five  times  the  size  of  the  mother 
country,  their  “government  ” entails  an  annual  loss 
of  $885,000,  and  the  development  of  their  resources 
is  quite  beyond  the  means  of  so  small  a country. 
In  the  meantime  Portugal  lias  not  unsuccessfully 
striven  to  attract  foreign  capital  to  her  colonies.  In 
Angola  a railway  from  Luanda  to  Ambaca  (188 
miles)  has  been  nearly  completed  by  an  English 
company.  Another  railway,  from  Delagoa  Bay  to 
the  border  of  the  South  African  Republic  (57  miles), 
has  been  built  by  an  Anglo-American  company, 
but  is  now  the  property  of  the  Portuguese  govern- 
ment. 

The  Portuguese  territories  in  Africa  are  as  fol- 
lows: 


44 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

In.  to  Sq.  M. 

Cape  Verde  Islands 

1,490 

111,000 

74 

Guinea 

14,970 

200,000 

5 

S,  Thome  a Principe 

420 

21,000 

50 

Cabenda 

2,030 

30,000 

15 

Angola 

515,670 

3,610,000 

7 

East  Africa 

297,750 

1,500,000 

5 

Portuguese  Africa 

826,730 

5,472,000 

7 

Italian  Africa. — Italy  first  became  an  “African 
Power”  by  the  occupation  of  Asab  Bay  in  1880. 
Since  then  she  has  gradually  extended  her  influ- 
ence, until  her  “sphere,”  recognized  by  treaties  with 
England  (March  14  and  April  15, 1891,  and  May  5, 
1894),  extends  over  548,880  square  miles,  with  an 
estimated  population  of  5,150,000  souls.  Massawa 
was  occupied  in  1885,  much  to  the  vexation  of  King 
John  of  Abyssinia,  whose  troops  inflicted  a severe 
defeat  upon  the  Italians  at  Sageneti  in  1888.  But 
cordial  relations  were  established  after  the  death  of 
this  Emperor,  and  on  the  accession  of  King  Mene- 
1 i k of  Shoa,  whose  friendship  the  Italians  had  care- 
fully cultivated,  Count  Antonelli,  on  May  2,  1889, 
concluded  the  treaty  of  Ujali,  by  which  Abyssinia 
not  only  ceded  Hamasen,  Keren,  and  other  districts 
on  the  tableland  of  Tigre,  but  also  intrusted  Italy 
with  the  management  of  Abyssinia’s  foreign  rela- 
tions. The  interpretation  of  this  “Protection” 
clause  subsequently  led  to  serious  differences  of 
opinion  ; and,  although  a new  treaty  was  concluded 
(February,  1891), which  further  regulates  the  bound- 


ST.  PAUL  DE  LOANDA  (PORTUGUESE). 


Europe  in  Africa. 


47 


aries,  and  in  which  Italy  promises  to  guarantee  an 
Abyssinian  loan  of  $800,000,  these  differences  do 
not  appear  to  have  been  settled,  and  the  Negus  de- 
nounced the  treaty  in  1893. 

On  February  1,  1890,  the  Italian  Possessions  on 
the  Red  Sea  were  organized  as  a colony,  under  the 
appropriate  name  of  “ Eritrea.”  This  colony,  in- 
clusive of  the  important  town  of  Kasala,  occupied 
after  a severe  fight  with  the  Mahdi’s  forces,  em- 
braces 84,950  square  miles,  with  450,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  held  by  a military  force  of  220  officers  and 
6,100  men. 

Short  railways  (twenty  miles  in  all)  connect  Mas- 
sawa  with  Saati  and  Arkiko.  On  the  eastern  Somal 
Coast  Italy  first  gained  a footing  in  1889,  when  the 
Sultans  of  the  Mijertin  and  ot  Obbia  placed  them- 
selves under  her  protection  ; and  since  the  conven- 
tions with  England  (1891  and  1894)  her  pretensions 
to  the  greater  part  of  Somaliland  have  been  recog- 
nized. It  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  that 
France  has  been  no  party  to  the  treaties  between 
Great  Britain  and  Italy,  and  objects  more  especial- 
ly to  the  inclusion  of  Harar,  now  occupied  by  King 
Menelik,  in  the  Italian  sphere. 

The  Congo  State,  founded  in  1884  by  the  King 
of  the  Belgians,  has  virtually  become  a Belgian  col- 
ony since  August  2, 1889,*  on  which  day  the  Belgian 
Chambers  voted  a subsidy  of  $5,000,000,  payable 

• February,  1895,  the  Congo  Free  State  Association  transferred 
all  its  claims  and  rights  to  Belgium,  and  the  Congo  Free  State 
is  now  a Belgian  colony  de  facto. 


48 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


in  ten  annual  installments.  The  boundaries  of  the 
state  have  fur  the  most  part  been  defined  by  treat- 
ies with  Germany  (1884),  France  (1885,  1887,  and 
1894),  Britain  (1894),  and  Portugal  (1891  and  1893). 

If  we  bear  in  mind  what  the  Congo  region  was 
when  Stanley  first  traversed  it,  we  are  bound  to 
admit  that  considerable  progress  has  been  made. 
The  exports  of  the  state  have  increased  from  $396,- 
100  in  1887  to  81,502,960  in  1898. 

Of  the  railway  which  is  to  connect  Matadi  with 
Stanley  Pool,  only  40  miles  have  been  completed 
out  of  a total  of  266;  but  thirty-five  steamers  now 
navigate  the  Upper  Congo.  There  are  thirty-eight 
government  stations,  held  by  an  organized  force  of 
•3,520  men,  besides  numerous  European  factories 
and  missionary  stations. 

Boer  States. — Lastly,  there  are  two  Boer  Repub- 
lics— the  South  African  Republic  (Transvaal)  and 
the  Orange  Free  State,  together  with  Swaziland, 
which  by  an  agreement  of  November  12,  1892,  is 
to  be  transferred  to  the  South  African  Republic. 
The  whole,  since  the  formation  of  a South  African 
Customs  Union,  may  truly  lie  said  to  lie  within  the 
British  sphere  of  “ interests.” 

Summary. — In  conclusion,  we  present  an  estimate 
of  the  total  population  of  Africa.  If  it  is  borne  in 
mind  that  hardly  eight  millions  of  this  population 
have  been  enumerated,  while  for  the  whole  of  the 
remainder  we  are  dependent  upon  conflicting  state- 
ments of  travelers  and  residents,  it  must  be  obvious 
that  such  an  estimate  can  only  claim  to  be  an  approx- 


49 


Europe  in  Africa. 

imation.  Accepting  the  figures  as  given  below,  it 
will  be  found  that  the  number  ot  people  to  a square 
mile  only  amounts  to  twelve  in  Africa,  as  compared 
to  ninety-five  in  Europe.  The  number  of  Europe- 
ans and  persons  of  European  descent  throughout 
Continental  Africa  may  be  estimated  at  1,110,000, 
viz.,  448,000  in  Northern  Africa,  640,000  in  South- 
ern Africa,  and  22,000  in  Tropical  Africa. 

The  following  is  the  estimated  Area  and  Popula- 
tion of  Africa  : 


Sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

In.  to  Sq.  M. 

British  Africa 

2,119,160 

43,227,700 

20 

Portuguese  Africa 

826,730 

5,472,000 

7 

French  Africa 

3,426,790 

32,819,000 

10 

Spanish  Africa 

153,830 

443,000 

3 

German  Africa 

884,810 

8,370,000 

9 

Italian  Africa 

548,880 

5,150,000 

8 

Congo  State 

905,090 

16,300,000 

18 

Boer  States  and  Swaziland. . . . 

177,750 

764,000 

4 

European  Africa 

9,123,040 

112,545,700 

12 

Morocco 

154  500 

6 000  000 

30 

Tripoli  and  Fezzan 

338,470 

logo’, 000 

3 

Egypt 

349,170 

7,600,000 

22 

The  Mahdi’s Dominion  to  KPN 

609.300 

5,800,000 

9 

Liberia  * 

51,970 

1,000,000 

19 

Unappropriated  East  Sahara  . 

673,230 

60,000 

Unappropriated  W est  Soudan. 

155,650 

2,800,000 

18 

Lakes  Tchad,  Victoria,  Tan- 

1 

ganvika,  Nyasa,  Mwera,  and 

[ 70,480 

Albert 

All  Africa 

11,525,810 

136,805,700 

12 

* The  last  treaty  with  Prance  has  reduced  the  Liberian  territory  to  about 
45,000  square  miles. 


CHAPTER  III. 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa. 

IF  I ever  had  any  doubt  as  to  the  purpose  of  the 
European  to  establish  permanent  control  over 
his  Possessions  and  Protectorates  in  Africa,  that 
doubt  has  most  effectually  been  dispelled.  When 
representatives  of  the  various  European  Powers  as- 
sembled in  Berlin,  in  1874,  looking  to  establishing 
the  autonomy  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  and  after 
they  had  reached  an  agreement  on  matters  pertain- 
ing to  the  partitioning  of  Africa,  it  became  a ques- 
tion in  my  mind  as  to  whether  division  necessarily 
implied  possession — i.  e.,  whether  the  partitioning 
of  Africa  was  not  a scheme  on  paper,  rather  than 
an  actuality.  During  my  meanderings  along  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa,  and  in  its 
rivers,  I was  keenly  observant  of  the  present  posi- 
tion of  the  several  European  Powers,  wherever 
their  unfurled  flags  betokened  their  supremacy.  I 
confess  that  I had  not  the  remotest  idea  that  the 
European  was  so  well  entrenched  in  his  African 
Possessions  as  I found  him  to  be.  Waiving  the 
presentation  of  all  incidental  questions,  I am  pre- 
pared to  state  that,  in  my  opinion,  the  European 
is  in  Africa  to  stay,  and  that  there  are  no  condi- 
tions likely  to  arise  which  will  dislodge  him  short 
of  miraculous  interference. 

(50) 


IMPERIAL  BARRACKS,  FREETOWN,  SIERRA  LEONE. 


! 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa.  53 

The  Europeans  in  Africa  may  be  divided  into 
two  classes — Propagationists  and  Extermination- 
ists.  By  Propagationists  I mean  those  Powers 
that  are  willing  to  allow  the  natives  within  their 
Possessions  to  retain  their  ancient  domains,  sub- 
ject to  the  influences  and  demands  of  organized 
government,  and  to  recognize  the  natives  as  aids 
and  allies  in  the  development  of  the  natural  re- 
sources of  their  respective  Possessions.  The  Ex- 
terminationists  are  those  Powers  that  want  to 
transport  the  indigent  element  of  their  home 
countries  to  their  Possessions  in  Africa  ; in  other 
words,  to  displace  the  natives  with  European  col- 
onists. Under  the  head  of  the  former  I place  the 
British  and  the  French,  and  under  the  head  of  the 
latter  the  Germans  and  the  Belgians. 

The  influence  of  the  British  on  the  West  Coast 
of  Africa  is  far  more  conserving  of  the  interests 
of  the  natives  than  that  of  any  other  European 
Power,  and  the  natives  under  the  sway  of  Great 
Britain,  in  that  region,  have  the  promise  of  a pro- 
longed lease  of  undisturbed  existence;  and  it  is 
probable  that  in  the  course  of  time,  under  proper 
conditions,  she  may  develop  an  Anglo-African  De- 
pendency by  the  civilization  and  enlightenment 
ot  the  native  peoples  within  the  bounds  of  her 
West  African  Colonies,  which  would  give  her  an 
Anglo-African  Dependency  equal  in  numerical 
strength  to  the  present  population  of  England  and 
Wales — a Dependency  which  might  prove  a strong 
adjunct  to  her  military  prowess.  The  shadows  on 


54 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


the  sundial  of  the  past  and  present  British  accom- 
plishments for  the  uplifting  and  advancement  ot 
the  native  peoples  within  her  West  African  do- 
mains seem  to  me  to  be  the  promise  and  prophecy 
of  her  continued  effort  to  redeem  West  Africa  from 
the  grasp  of  barbarism,  and  to  lift  the  long-be- 
nighted masses  into  the  light  of  civilization  and 
progress.  This  she  may  do  by  way  of  compensa- 
tion for  her  less  considerate  treatment  of  the  na- 
tives in  her  Possessions  in  Southern  Africa  and 
Matebeleland.  However,  should  the  time  ever 
arise  when  Great  Britain  shall  find  herself  in  need 
of  her  West  African  Colonies  for  the  settlement  of 
her  own  people,  and  become  pressed  with  the 
question  of  allowing  them  to  starve  at  home,  or 
giving  them  a chance  to  live  in  Africa — even  pes- 
tilential Western  Africa — I believe  that  she  would 
choose  the  latter  alternative. 

Great  Britain,  through  governmental  agencies, 
the  Church  Missionary  Society,  the  Wesleyan  Mis- 
sionary Society,  and  kindred  associations,  has  al- 
ready shorn  hundreds  and  thousands  of  the  natives 
of  their  ancestral  barbaric  rites  and  customs,  and 
invested  them  with  the  habiliments  of  Christian 
civilization  and  enlightenment.  Already  institu- 
tions, under  the  fostering  care  and  protection  of 
British  influence,  have  developed  among  the  na- 
tives intelligent  minds  and  skilled  hands  in  no 
small  number. 

The  establishing  of  a Franco- African  Empire 
has  been  the  dream  of  France  for  many  years.  In 


REPAIRING  TELEPHONE  WIRES  AT  GABOON.  CONGOLESE  SOLDIERS. 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa.  57 


the  extent  of  the  area  of  her  African  Possessions, 
France  leads  all  the  other  European  Powers.  The 
population,  however,  is  not  so  large  as  that  em- 
braced in  the  sphere  of  British  influence.  France 
is  most  energetic  and  active  in  pushing  her  African 
enterprises,  and  unstinting  in  her  outlay  of  money 
in  extending  and  enlarging  her  commerce  and  es- 
tablishing places  of  strong  defense.  At  Gaboon 
she  has  the  most  magnificent  set  of  public  build- 
ings to  he  found  any  where  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast  of  Africa,  Loanda  alone  excepted.  She 
is  now  projecting  a railroad  from  Loango  to  her 
Upper  Congo  territory,  which  is  a shorter  and 
more  direct  route  than  the  Congo  River  affords. 

It  is  said  that  France  is  harsh  in  her  treatment 
of  the  natives.  I was  not  able,  however,  to  satisfy 
myself  in  respect  to  this.  I noticed  quite  a force 
of  native  soldiers  stationed  at  Gaboon. 

French  Catholic  missionaries  are  doing  good 
work  in  educating  native  children  at  Gaboon,  Lo- 
ango, and  other  places  in  the  French  Possessions 
in  Southwest  Africa.  I had  less  opportunity  for 
observing  the  movements  and  disposition  of  the 
French  than  that  of  any  other  European  Power 
whose  Possessions  I visited.  I observed  a number 
of  natives  in  Gaboon  engaged  in  various  industrial 
pursuits — such  as  blasting  and  trimming  stone, 
erecting  buildings,  repairing  telephone  wires,  and 
performing  various  kinds  of  labor  in  a large  ma- 
chine shop.  From  my  observations  at  Gaboon,  1 
should  say  that  the  French,  though  accused  of 


58 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


great  cruelty  toward  the  natives,  are  contributing 
more  or  less  of  a helpful  influence  toward  their 
civilization  and  enlightenment.  To  be  fah’ly  ac- 
quainted with  the  present  movements  and  position 
of  the  French  in  their  various  Possessions  and 
Protectorates  in  Africa,  one  must  have  recourse  to 
French  literature. 

The  Exterminationists — the  Germans  and  the 
Belgians — are  evidently  giving  a good  deal  of  at- 
tention to  devising  methods  for  effectually  deci- 
mating the  natives — in  plain  words,  exterminating 
them.  Their  conduct  toward  the  natives  may  be 
justly  referred  to  as  cruel  and  heartless  in  the  ex- 
treme. They  think  the  natives  have  no  rights 
which  they  are  bound  to  respect.  They  want  the 
land  of  the  natives  for  the  settlement  of  their  own 
people,  and  they  regard  the  first  step  necessary  to 
he  taken  is  to  “kill  off  the  savages.”  The  exter- 
mination of  the  natives  will  not  he  immediate. 
Their  presence  will  he  tolerated  so  long  as  their 
labor  is  needed  in  making  internal  improvements 
— such  as  building  forts,  fortifications,  and  govern- 
ment piers,  erecting  government  buildings,  con- 
structing railroads,  and  facilitating  the  movements 
of  expeditions  through  the  country  by  establishing 
public  roads.  In  a word,  they  will  be  required  to 
do  whatever  may  be  regarded  as  necessary  to  pre- 
pare the  way  for  the  coming  of  the  poor  kith  and 
kin  of  the  invading  Powers  who  have  taken  pos- 
session of  their  country  by  the  rule  of  might. 

I am  aware  that  this  opinion  will  be  generally 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa.  59 

scoffed  at;  that  the  probability  of  Europeans  set- 
tling' in  large  numbers  in  any  part  of  Equatorial 
Africa  will  be  ridiculed.  However,  if  the  Germans 
do  not  look  forward  to  the  settlement  of  their  in- 
digent masses  in  the  highlands  of  the  Cameroons 
country,  and  the  Belgians  to  the  settlement  ot 
their  indigent  masses  in  the  highlands  and  grass- 
lands of  the  upper  regions  of  the  Congo  Free 
State,  then  why  are  they  investing  millions  of  dol- 
lars in  establishing  means  ot  defense,  and  in  in- 
ternal improvements  ? And  why  are  they  pushing 
the  establishment  of  these  enterprises  with  una- 
bated vigor  and  activity  ? Nothing  seems  to  deter 
them.  Though  hundreds  have  been  smitten  with 
the  African  fever,  and  found  their  graves  in  Af- 
rican soil,  the  ranks  thus  decimated  are  speedily 
tilled  with  fresh  recruits.  They  have  already  sub- 
jected many  of  the  natives  to  a state  of  enforced 
servitude,  so  as  to  expedite  the  improvement  of 
the  country.  Now,  if  African  trade  and  commerce 
are  the  only  forces  which  impel  these  invaders,  it 
is  neither  necessary  to  their  purpose  for  them  to 
invest  millions  of  dollars  in  improvements  and 
fortifications,  nor  to  reduce  the  natives  to  virtual 
slavery,  for  the  native  African  is  by  instinct  a 
trader,  and  he  delights  in  barter.  It  is  estimated 
that  there  are  now  22,000  Europeans  living  in 
Tropical  Africa — a thing  which  a few  years  ago 
was  deemed  absolutely  impossible. 

It  is  impossible  to  indicate  the  purposes  and 
policy  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  in  Africa. 


60 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


The  former  has  only  island  Possessions — Fernando 
Po,  Annobom,  Corisco,  and  Eloby — all  located  in 
Southwest  Africa.  They  claim  a strip  off  the 
mainland  in  Corisco  Bay,  but  their  claim  to  that 
is  disputed  by  the  French.  The  island  of  Fer- 
nando Po  is  a most  valuable  Possession,  and  in 
the  hands  of  an  energetic  and  progressive  people 
could  be  made  to  yield  large  returns  for  whatever 
investment  might  be  made  in  its  improvement. 
The  land  seems  to  be  highly  adapted  to  cocoa  rais- 
ing, and  is  especially  prolilic  in  the  production  of 
yams,  which  are  noted  near  and  far  for  their  choice 
quality  as  an  article  of  food.  Many  ships  turn  out 
of  their  regular  course  and  enter  Clarence  Bay 
for  the  purpose  of  getting  a supply  of  Fernando 
Po  yams.  The  islands  of  Annobom,  Eloby,  and 
Corisco  are  of  no  special  importance.  The  latter, 
though,  is  strikingly  attractive,  and  is,  indeed,  a 
gem  of  the  ocean.  There  is  not  a European 
among  its  inhabitants. 

Unfortunately,  the  Portuguese  Possessions  are 
too  large  and  valuable  for  such  a degenerate  and 
retrogressi  ve  people.  It  may  be  truly  said  of  Por- 
tugal that  she  “was  the.  in  the  beginning,  is  now, 
and  ever  will  be  ” a barnacle  on  the  “ Dark  Con- 
tinent.” Her  history  as  a proslavery  nation  is  too 
well  known  to  need  recital.  Despite  all  the  treaties 
which  she  has  made  from  time  to  time  with  other 
European  Powers,  pledging  herself  to  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave  trade,  she  still  countenances 
slavery  in  her  African  Possessions,  and  is  still  a 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa.  61 


slave  trader  and  a slaveholder.  Her  methods, 
though  secret,  are  effectual.  Hundreds  of  natives 
are  at  times  driven  aboard  Portuguese  ships  at  Ca- 
benda,  transported  to  the  island  of  St.  Thomas, 
and  forced  to  labor  on  the  coffee  farms.  I was  re- 
liably informed  that  a Portuguese  planter  near 
Loanda  has  one  hundred  and  seventy  slaves  work- 
ing his  stone  quarries  and  farm  lands.  The  Por- 
tuguese territory  in  the  Lower  Congo  and  the 
province  of  Angola  are  valuable  possessions,  from 
which  large  quantities  of  coffee  are  annually  ex- 
ported. 

Cabenda,  beautifully  situated  on  a bay  of  the 
same  name,  is  growing  in  importance.  Govern- 
ment buildings,  including  a barracks,  are  under 
course  of  erection.  Its  natural  position  is  very 
favorable  for  continued  growth  in  population  and 
in  commercial  importance.  The  administration  of 
its  colonial  affairs  is  in  the  hands  of  local  officials. 

St.  Paul  de  Loanda,  which  is  the  capital  of  the 
Angola  district,  is  fairly  fortified,  and  is  a coaling 
station  and  a supply  depot  for  Portuguese  war  ves- 
sels and  merchant  ships.  There  is  a railroad,  two 
hundred  miles  in  length,  leading  from  Loanda  to 
the  coffee  country.  In  the  estimation  of  the  na- 
tives, the  Portuguese  is  not  a European,  hut  a Por- 
tuguese white  man,  which  means  that  the  Portu- 
guese are  inferior  to  the  English,  French,  etc. 

All  the  civilizing  agencies  to  he  found  anywhere 
on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  have 
been  planted  by  Europeans,  and  these  agencies  are 


62 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


far  more  potent  and  extensive  than  is  generally 
known.  That  t lie  several  European  Powers  hold- 
ing Possessions  and  Protectorates  in  Africa  do  not 
intend  to  yield  the  same  without  stubborn  resist- 
ance is  best  indicated  by  the  statement  that  Great 
Britain  keeps  a squadron  of  fourteen  war  ships  in 
commission  to  protect  her  Possessions  in  Southern 
and  Western  Africa;  that  the  French  keep  a 
squadron  of  six  war  ships  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast,  and  that  the  Germans  keep  a squadron 
of  eight  ships  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast. 
The  Bel  gians  have  erected  a fort  at  Boma  to  guard 
the  Lower  Congo  region  from  sudden  attack.  All 
the  Powers,  except  the  Spanish,  keep  a standing 
military  force.  Sierra  Leone,  Accra,  Lagos,  Cam- 
eroons,  St.  Thomas,  Gaboon,  and  Loanda,  are  con- 
nected with  their  home  governments  by  cable. 
Over  one  hundred  steamships  ply  regularly  along 
the  West  Coast,  while  about  twenty-five  are  en- 
gaged in  carrying  trade  to  and  from  the  South- 
west Coast. 

The  following  statistics  from  the  Report  on  the 
Transactions  of  the  Postoffice  Department  of  the 
Gold  Coast  Colony,  for  1893,  will  somewhat  serve 
to  partially  indicate  the  extent  of  the  civilizing 
influences  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of 
Afri  ca : 

Number  of  letters,  unregistered  and  registered, 
270,672;  official  letters,  etc.,  sent  on  service,  50,- 
593;  ordinary  newspapers,  book-packets,  and  cir- 
culars, 9,788;  postal  cards,  4,059.  675  steamers 


The  Purpose  of  The  European  in  Africa.  63 

arrived  with  mail,  and  625  departed.  There  were 
3,608  money  orders  issued. 

One  thing  that  will  strongly  incline  to  anchor 
tlie  European  to  his  African  Possessions  and  Pro- 
tectorates is  his  iiope  and  expectation  that  some 
day  there  will  he  discovered,  somewhere  within  its 
bounds,  a new  source  of  wealth,  unlike  and  more 
valuable  than  any  the  world  has  yet  known.  This 
hope  I found  to  be  latent  in  the  breast  of  a num- 
ber of  Europeans  with  whom  I conversed.  Be- 
sides, there  is  the  desire  for  supremacy  which 
international  rivalry  prompts  and  promotes.  Each 
Power  is  not  only  striving  to  maintain  its  present 
Possessions,  but  to  extend  the  sphere  of  its  influ- 
ence. It  is  no  longer  a scramble  for  additional 
square  miles  of  territory,  nor  acres,  nor  yards,  but 
every  foot  of  unoccupied  soil  is  eagerly  sought. 

As  to  matters  of  general  policy,  the  European 
Powers  are  agreed  to  three  things:  The  suppres- 
sion of  the  Arab  slave  trade,  the  restriction  of 
the  liquor  traffic,  and  the  prohibition  ot  the  sale  of 
improved  firearms  to  the  natives.  There  is  an  ef- 
fort to  carry  out  the  first  point  of  the  agreement; 
the  second  is  woefully  neglected,  and  the  third  is 
religiously  observed. 

The  hopeful  feeling  of  the  several  European 
Powers  regarding  their  Possessions  and  Protector- 
ates in  Africa  is  clearly  and  strongly  stated  in  the 
following  extract  from  an  address  by  His  Excel- 
lency Sir  Gilbert  T.  Carter,  Iv.  C.  M.  G.,  Governor 
of  Lagos,  at  a banquet  given  him  by  the  Chamber 


64 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


of  Commerce  of  Liverpool,  at  theAdelphi  Hotel, 
June  16,  1893.  He  said: 

Gentlemen,  there  are  no  doubt  many  colonies  the  scenery 
of  which  is  grander  and  the  climate  of  which  is  more  beautiful ; 
but  I doubt  if  there  are  any  colonies  on  which  to-day  the  pub- 
lic eye  is  more  keen,  or  in  which  theie  is  more  interesting 
work,  than  those  colonies  which  have  been  made  through  the 
industry  of  those  connected  with  trade  and  commerce,  and 
w hich,  if  1 be  permitted  to  say  so,  much  interest  has  been  taken 
by  those  officials  who  work  tiierc  with  zeal  and  with  every 
good  desire,  which  colonies  to-day  form  the  inlets  of  that  great 
continent,  the  glories  of  which  are  yet  unknown.  [Applause.] 
The  regions  and  treasures  of  that  great  African  continent  may 
remain  still  buried  when  we  and  our  children  shall  be  cold  in 
the  tomb;  but  if  this  world  lasts  long  enough  there  is  no  doubt 
in  my  mind  that  these  treasures  will  eventually  come  to  light, 
and  that  that  great  unknown  country  may,  perchance,  prove 
the  most  valuable  country  that  this  world  possesses.  Let  us, 
then,  do  all  in  our  power  to  preserve  the  Possessions  which  we 
now  have;  let  us  do  all  in  our  power  to  make  them  flourish 
and  prosper;  let  us  do  all  in  our  power  to  extend  their  boun- 
daries into  the  interior  of  that  continent;  and  if  we  do  this,  we 
may  rest  assured  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  we  can  look 
upon  them  and  say  they  are  living  emblems  of  the  unity,  the 
loyalty,  and  the  greatness  of  that  vast  colonial  empire  over 
which  it  has  been  truly  said  the  sun  never  sets.  [Applause  ] 


REV.  AND  MRS..  WILSON,  VICTORIA.  REV  WILLIAM  BARLEYCORN,  FERNANDO  PO. 


CHAPTER  I Yl. 


The  African  in  Africa. 


OR  the  sake  of  convenience  I will  divide  the 


i natives  of  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of 
Africa  into  two  general  classes,  viz.,  the  Maritime 
Tribes,  or  those  who  dwell  on  the  coast;  and  the 
Hinterland  Tribes,  or  those  who  dwell  in  the  inte- 
rior. If  mention  is  made  at  all  of  the  latter,  it 
will  be  only  incidentally,  as  I did  not  mingle  to 
any  extent  with  them,  and  had  only  the  opportu- 
nity of  observing  them  as  I saw  them  around  the 
trading  places  at  various  points  on  the  coast.  The 
Hinterland  Tribes  are  wholly  uncivilized.  Along 
the  West  Coast  the  Maritime  Tribes  may  be  clas- 
sified as  civilized  and  uncivilized.  On  the  South- 
west Coast,  with  comparatively  few  exceptions, 
they  are  uncivilized.  Reference  will  first  he  made 
to  the  civilized  natives. 

Doubtless  the  greater  number  of  these  to  be 
found  at  any  one  place  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast  are  at  Freetown,  Sierra  Leone,  which 
contains  a population  of  about  35,000.  Of  this 
number,  I have  no  means  of  determining  the  ratio 
between  the  civilized  and  uncivilized.  The  popula- 
tion of  Freetown  is  a combination  of  many  diverse 
elements.  The  civilized  natives  of  Sierra  Leone, 
like  those  of  any  other  community  on  the  West 


(67) 


68 


Glimpses  of  Af  rica. 


and  Southwest  Coast  under  the  control  of  Euro- 
pean influences,  may  be  classed  as  government  offi- 
cials, professionals,  traders,  clerks,  and  middle  men. 
There  is  by  tar  a much  larger  number  of  the  above 
classes  in  the  British  Colonies  than  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Possessions  and  Protectorates  of  any  of  the 
other  European  Powers.  In  Sierra  Leone,  the  Gold 
Coast,  and  Lagos  Colonies,  the  number  of  govern- 
ment officials,  professionals,  traders,  clerks,  and 
middle  men,  is  surprisingly  large.  There  is  also  a 
large  number  of  skilled  craftsmen.  There  are  also 
many  wealthy  natives  in  the  British  Colonies. 

Two  types  of  civilization  have  found  growth 
and  fruitage  among  the  natives — Anglo-Saxon  and 
Arabian.  In  the  development  of  the  passive  feel- 
ings, the  powei’s  of  imitation,  self-insufficiency  and 
dependent  tendencies,  intemperate  habits,  and  a 
spirit  of  braggadocio,  Anglo-Saxon  civilization,  as 
planted  and  fostered  by  the  British,  has  out- 
stripped Arabian  civilization.  In  the  development, 
however,  of  true  manly  independence,  broad  intel- 
ligence, affability,  and  temperate  habits,  Arabian 
civilization,  or  Mohammedanism,  has  surpassed 
Anglo-Saxon  civilization. 

Anglo-Saxon  civilization  is  responsible  for  many 
of  the  vices  to  which  the  natives  are  addicted.  It 
is  necessary  to  understand  this,  as  the  civilized  na- 
tives, especially  in  the  British  Colonies,  are  sub- 
jected to  persistent  criticism  of  a very  harsh  na- 
ture. In  determining  the  ratio  between  the  virtues 
and  the  vices  of  the  civilized  natives,  in  order  to 


The  African  in  Africa. 


69 


ascertain  how  far  they  are  responsible  for  their 
lack  of  the  former,  and  for  their  possession  of  the 
latter,  it  is  essential  that  the  character  of  their 
teachers  and  exemplars  should  be  noted.  All  the 
noble  and  ignoble  qualities  possessed  by  the  civil- 
ized natives  in  the  British  Colonies  are  the  fruits 
of  a graft  on  the  body  of  their  ancestral  life  from 
the  tree  of  Anglo-Saxon  civilization.  The  process 
of  development  has  been  going  on  in  the  Colony 
of  Sierra  Leone  since  1787,  which  is  a much  longer 
period  than  it  has  been  operating  in  any  of  the 
other  British  Colonies.  Unfortunately  many  of 
the  teachers  and  exemplars,  from  whose  conduct 
the  natives  have  imbibed  civilizing  influences,  have 
been  of  the  most  reckless  character.  The  Very 
Rev.  G.  H.  Chadwick,  D.  D.,  Dean  of  Armagh, 
in  one  of  his  sermons,  says : “ There  is  not  a 
month  but  thousands  of  our  most  dissipated  youth, 
our  most  unfortunate  manhood,  our  most  ignorant 
and  helpless  peasantry,  venture  into  lands  utterly 
unknown  to  them.”  Which,  alas  ! is  only  too  true. 
I have  no  desire  or  disposition  to  apologize  for 
the  shortcomings  of  the  civilized  natives.  I simply 
aim  to  be  just,  and  to  accord  to  them  whatever 
merit  they  are  entitled  to,  as  well  as  to  bestow 
upon  their  vicious  teachers  and  exemplars  what- 
ever blame  and  censure  they  deserve.  To  my 
great  surprise  I found  that,  with  hut  few  excep- 
tions, the  Europeans  who  dwell  on  the  West  and 
Southwest  Coast  of  Africa,  or  man  the  ships  which 
navigate  the  adjacent  waters,  betray  a feeling  of 


70 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


inveterate  hatred  toward  the  civilized  native.  He 
is  characterized  as  impudent,  indolent,  immoral, 
thievish,  lying,  and  hypocritical— the  personifica- 
tion of  unmixed  evil.  The  bushman,  or  raw  na- 
tive, is  praised;  the  civilized  native  is  damned. 
ISTow  there  may  he  earnest  inquiry  as  to  the  reason 
for  this.  The  answer  is  found  iu  that  inexplicable 
trait  of  human  nature  to  despise  those  most  whom 
we  have  wronged  most.  There  was  a time  when 
all  the  African  tribes  were  buslimen,  when  not  an 
individual  among  them  had  imbibed,  in  the  least, 
any  of  the  influences  of  European  civilization. 
Then  it  was  that  trade  was  highly  profitable;  when 
the  innocent,  unwary,  unsuspecting,  untutored  na- 
tive could  be  easily  persuaded  to  part  with  the 
most  valuable  riches  for  a few  glittering  trinkets 
of  trifling  value;  when  fabulous  fortunes  were 
made  in  a brief  time,  and  the  profits  on  invest- 
ments were  so  certain  and  so  immense  that  those 
interested  scarcely  stopped  to  compute  them. 
With  the  enlightenment  of  the  natives,  however, 
a change  began  to  take  place  along  this  line.  The 
intelligent  native  readily  began  to  comprehend 
that  “ for  ways  that  are  dark  and  tricks  that  are 
vain,”  especially  in  matters  of  trade,  the  Kuropean 
has  no  superior;  and  he  began  to  reason  that  if 
such  was  fit  for  the  white  man,  it  was  also  fit  for 
the  black  man.  The  African  is  a keen  observer, 
and  is  readily  impressed  by  object  lessons.  Hence, 
when  he  was  led  to  realize  that  he  was  being  ruth- 
lessly cheated  and  robbed  by  the  white  trader,  he 


The  African  in  Africa. 


73 


naturally  followed  suit.  lie  caught  the  white  man 
lying,  and  he  adopted  the  same  method.  He 
found  that  the  white  man  lusted  after  many 
women — even  the  disfigured,  tattooed,  heathenish, 
fetich  worshiping  African  women — and  he  was 
thus  reassured  of  the  eminent  correctness  and  pro- 
priety of  his  own  long  established  custom  of  a 
plurality  of  wives.  The  point  of  difference  be- 
tween the  African  and  European,  touching  this 
matter,  is  that  the  former  has  many  wives  and  no 
concubines;  but  a large  number  of  the  latter  have 
one  wife  and  several  concubines.  The  African, 
seemingly,  is  wholly  innocent  of  any  wrong  in  the 
practice  of  polygamy,  and  even  the  most  intelli- 
gent among  them  are  slow  to  discern  the  virtue  of 
monogamy.  This  accounts  for  the  following  state- 
ment made  by  Bishop  Ingham  in  his  book,  “ Sierra 
Leone  After  a Hundred  Years”: 

We  remember  of  holding  a conversation,  a few  years  ago, 
with  an  African  thinker  of  repute  in  Sierra  Leone.  This  gen- 
tleman affirmed  that  the  Christian  churches  are  living  in  a 
false  paradise  if  they  think  to  raise  Africa  at  once  to  the  Chris- 
tian standard  of  morality;  that  organized  hypociisy  will  be  the 
result  of  enforcing  that  standard,  and  that  licensed  polygamy 
would  undoubtedly  be  replaced  by  secret  concubinage.  He 
said  that  some  writer  had  brought  out  a book  in  which  he 
marked  off  a certain  zone  within  which  monogamy  will  not 
live,  and  that  the  greater  part  of  Africa  is  in  that  zone.  He 
pleaded  for  a period  of  preparation  for  Christianity  to  be  granted 
to  the  race,  such  as  the  Jewish  system  afforded  the  emanci- 
pated Israelites.  He  thought  that  either  Moharamedani>m 
must  be  that  intermediate  step,  or  that  the  Church  should 
lower  her  standard  slightly  so  as  to  stoop  the  better  to  lilt 
them  up. 


74 


Glimpses  of  Af  rica. 


That  the  civilized  African  is  manifestly  lacking 
in  his  comprehension  and  appreciation  of  the  code 
of  Moral  Ethics,  formulated  and  promulgated  Ly 
Christian  philosophers,  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
However,  as  civilization  is  a plant  of  slow  growth, 
and  as  many  of  the  teachers  and  exemplars  of  the 
civilized  African  have  been  most  vicious  and  cor- 
rupt, his  present  improved  status  should  be  com- 
mended rather  than  condemned.  In  the  progress 
of  civilizing  influences  among  the  African-s,  it  is 
true  of  him,  as  it  is  of  other  races,  that  the  stream 
cannot  rise  above  its  source.  These  facts  I have 
referred  to  because  every  visitor  to  Africa  will  have 
many  evil  reports  of  the  civilized  African  poured 
into  his  ears. 

A close  observer  cannot  help  but  feel  that  the 
civilized  African  lias  not  met  the  expectations  of 
his  benefactors.  lie  seems  to  be  lacking  in  several 
points  of  sterling  worth  and  excellency.  He  does 
not  appear  to  be  as  grateful  as  he  ought  to  be  for 
what  has  been  done  for  him,  apparently  taking  it 
for  granted  that  what  has  been  done  for  him  is  no 
more  than  what  was  due  him.  He  is  lacking  in 
the  spirit  of  public  enterprise,  and  in  the  apprecia- 
tion of  the  importance  and  necessity  of  improving 
his  country.  He  is  seemingly  too  selfish  and  de- 
pendent. He  acquires  wealth  with  evidently  no 
other  end  in  view  than  the  gratification  of  self. 
He  is  evidently  impervious  to  the  dictum,  Pro 
bono  publico.  His  sole  ambition  is  to  gain  wealth 
for  his  personal  benefit.  He  might  be  as  rich  as 


i 


.ArS 


DWALLA  WOMAN.  AN  AMBRIZ  WOMAN. 

(UNCIVILIZED).  (SEMI-CIVILIZED.) 


Tke  African  in  Africa. 


77 


Croesus,  and  yet  would  not  be  impressed  with  the 
feeling  that  it  was  his  duty  to  spend  any  portion 
of  his  wealth  for  public  improvements.  He  looks 
to  the  government  to  supply  all  public  needs.  In 
this  particular  he  is  justly  liable  to  censure  and 
blame.  He  complains  bitterly  of  the  encroach- 
ment of  the  European  upon  his  ancient  rights  and 
privileges;  still  there  is  no  part  of  his  country  but 
what  would  be  a wilderness  were  it  not  for  Euro- 
pean capital  and  energy. 

The  civilized  African  in  the  British  Colonies 
serves  in  many  important  capacities,  and  Great 
Britain  has  certainly  striven  to  aid  him  along  the 
highway  of  the  most  advanced  civilization.  In 
these  colonies  the  African  is  lacking  neither  in 
wealth  nor  intelligence  to  make  many  desirable 
improvements  in  his  country — improvements  that 
would  not  only  be  a source  of  blessing,  but  of  pe- 
cuniary benefit.  I would  kindly  but  firmly  re- 
mind the  intelligent  African  that  those  who  de- 
velop his  country  will  become  its  owners  and 
rulers. 

The  civilized  African  is  highly  censurable  for 
his  lack  of  sympathy  for  the  bushman,  or  raw  na- 
tive. The  attitude  which  the  former  assumes 
toward  the  latter  is  most  reprehensible.  The  first 
has  separated  himself  from  the  second  by  a wide 
and  impassable  gulf.  The  lordly  spirit  which  is 
manifested  by  the  European  toward  the  intelligent 
native,  he  in  turn  manifests  toward  the  bushman, 
even  though  they  should  perchance  be  brothers. 


78 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


The  query,  “Am  I my  brother’s  keeper?”  has, 
seemingly,  never  entered  his  mind.  Intensely  and 
unpardonably  selfish,  he  cares  not  who  sinks,  so  he 
swims.  “You  go  to  bush,”  is  a favorite  expres- 
sion of  his  when  he  wants  to  express  contempt  for 
liis  less  enlightened  brother.  In  all  my  observa- 
tions, nothing  caused  me  greater  pain  than  the 
utter  lack  of  sympathy  between  the  civilized  Afri- 
can and  his  uncivilized  fellow-countryman. 

The  condition  of  the  uncivilized  African  chal- 
lenges my  most  charitable  consideration.  He  is 
ground  between  the  upper  and  nether  millstone — 
the  greed  and  rapacity  of  the  European,  and  the 
greed  and  oppression  of  his  civilized  countryman 
and  brother.  His  needy  condition,  therefore,  not 
only  as  respects  his  lack  of  clothing,  but  as  respects 
his  want  of  the  ordinary  comforts  of  life,  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at.  The  uncivilized  African  is  of  a 
kindly  and  tractable  disposition,  and  has  far  less 
vices  than  his  civilized  kinsman.  However,  this 
should  not  necessarily  detract  from  the  blessings 
of  civilization,  as  there  is  no  Eden  without  its 
serpent,  and  no  path  without  its  thorns. 

Until  certain  conditions  are  radically  changed,  it 
is  not  possible  for  either  the  civilized  or  uncivilized 
African  to  gather  much  strength.  They  are  di- 
vided up  into  tribes  and  fragments  of  tribes  almost 
without  number.  Their  distrust  of  each  other  is 
unlimited,  and  has  been  the  source  of  their  inter- 
tribal wars  from  time  immemorial.  They  are 
wholly  lacking  in  the  strength  attendant  upon 


A MANDANILE  BRIDE.— Side  View-  a MANDANILE  BRIDE. — Front  View. 


The  African  in  Africa. 


81 


mutual  confidence.  In  this  respect  they  greatly 
resemble  the  North  American  Indian.  These 
drawbacks,  so  long-  as  they  exist,  preclude  the  pos- 
sibility of  the  development  of  an  African  empire, 
of  Africans,  by  Africans,  and  for  Africans.  I had 
fondly  hoped  to  have  discovered  different  condi- 
tions. 

Outside  of  the  sphere  of  British  influence  the 
picture  of  native  life  and  environments  in  Africa 
is  very  gloomy.  The  French  and  Portuguese,  who 
have  large  possessions  in  Southwest  Africa,  have 
done  hut  little  to  advance  the  natives  in  the  scale 
of  civilization.  From  Fernando  Po  to  St.  Paul 
de  Loanda,  a distance  of  1,879  miles,  the  darkness 
of  the  “ Dark  Continent”  is  distinctively  visible  as 
a painful  reality.  Intense,  though,  as  is  the  dark- 
ness it  is  here  and  there  relieved  by  faint  rays  of 
light. 

The  tractability  of  the  disposition  of  the  African 
is  greatly  in  his  favor,  and  in  this  particular  he  is 
wholly  unlike  the  North  American  Indian.  The 
latter  are  retaliative  and  revengeful;  ever  lurking 
in  the  path  of  the  white  man  to  snatch  his  scalp. 
He  is  a most  obstinate  foe  to  the  advancement  of 
civilization,  and  invites  his  destruction  by  main- 
taining a hostile  attitude  toward  the  white  man, 
and  by  refusing  the  advances  of  his  proffered 
friendship.  The  disposition  of  the  African  is 
entirely  different.  While  he  looks  with  disfavor 
upon  the  encroachment  of  the  European,  still  he 
has  the  good  sense  to  realize  that  he  cannot  hope, 
6 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


with  no  other  weapons  than  the  spear,  bow  and 
arrow,  to  successfully  resist  those  who  have  Pea- 
body rifles,  Maxim  guns,  and  thundering  cannon. 
He,  therefore,  quietly  folds  his  hands  and  smil- 
ingly looks  into  the  face  of  the  invading  forces 
and  says:  “ Well,  you  be  tit  to  come.  Give  dash. 
We  be  friends.”  The  effect  of  this  submissive 
attitude  is  to  largely  disarm  the  European  of  evil 
intent,  and  to  provoke  his  sympathy  rather  than 
his  hatred.  Thus  the  uncivilized  African  stands 
to-day  mutely  inquiring  of  the  European,  “ What 
are  you  going  to  do  with  me?” 

Of  the  civilized  African,  Sir  Francis  Fleming,  K. 
C.  M.  G.,  ex-Governor  of  Sierra  Leone,  said  on 
one  occasion  to  the  Committee  of  the  African 
Trade  Section  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  of 
Liverpool : 

There  are  some  natives  of  the  Colony  who  can  well  conduct 
their  own  affairs.  There  are  some  natives  of  the  Colony  who 
have  ability,  education ; who  have  talents,  in  my  mind,  equal 
to  any  talents  and  ability  that  can  be  found  in  our  mother 
country. 

Hon.  H.  H.  Johnson,  C.  B.  F.  R.  G.  S.,  and  late 
Consul  to  the  Oil  Rivers,  in  an  address  to  the  Liv- 
erpool Chamber  of  Commerce,  October  21,  1890, 
among  other  things  said: 

The  Negro  seems  to  require  the  intervention  of  some  supe- 
rior race  before  he  can  be  roused  to  any  definite  advance  from 
the  low  stage  of  human  development  in  wrhich  he  has  content- 
edly remained  for  many  thousand  years.  But,  w7hen  once  he 
does  come  in  contact  with  civilization,  he  accepts  it  with  extra- 
ordinary readiness,  and  surpasses  all  other  low-grade  varieties 


JIBUTI  MEN— UPPER  CONGO. 
(uncivilized.) 


BATTA  PEOPLE. 

(UNCIVILIZED.) 


The  African  in  Africa. 


85 


of  man  in  the  facility  with  which  in  one  generation,  in  the  one 
individual,  he  can  skip  two  or  three  thousand  years  and  trans- 
form himself  from  a naked,  brutish  savage,  into  a shorthand 
clerk,  telegraph  operator,  skilled  photographer,  a steam  en- 
gineer, a first-class  cook,  or  an  irreproachable  butler. 


CHAPTER  \J. 


Missionary  Enterprises. 

IT  is  not  my  purpose  to  enter  into  the  history  of 
Missionary  Enterprises  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast  of  Africa,  but  rather  to  note  the  im- 
pressions which  the  result  of  their  operations  made 
upon  my  mind.  The  oldest  Missionary  Society  on 
the  West  Coast  is  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
of  Great  Britain,  which  sent  two  missionaries,  in 
1804,  to  the  Susu  Tribe  on  the  river  Pongas.  In 
1816  the  Society's  efforts  were  concentrated  upon 
the  Colony  in  Sierra  Leone.  A number  of  Euro- 
pean Missionary  Societies  have  established  agencies 
at  different  times  and  at  different  places  along  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast.  American  Mission- 
aries have  labored  at  points  on  the  Southwest 
Coast,  chiefly  under  the  auspices  of  the  Presby- 
terian Board  of  Missions.  American  Missionaries 
have  also  labored  in  Liberia,  and  are  still  laboring 
there. 

I do  not  wish  to  appear  skeptical,  but  I must 
confess  that,  from  observations  made,  the  efforts 
of  Missionary  Enterprises  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast  of  Africa  have  proved  exceedingly  bar- 
ren of  satisfactory  results.  Vast  sums  of  money 
have  been  expended  and  valuable  lives  sacrificed. 
The  contents  of  this  chapter  consist  largely  of 
(86) 


FETICHES  AND  WORSHIPPER.  A JUJU  OR  MEDICINE  MAN. 


Missionary  Enterprises. 


89 


the  statement  of  opinions,  based  upon  personal 
observations  and  years  of  diligent  study  of  the  sit- 
uation. The  most  sanguine  writers  on  the  results 
of  Missionary  Enterprises  in  those  parts  of  Africa 
which  I visited  have  given  us  but  little  encourage- 
ment as  to  tbe  results  obtained. 

It  is  evident  that  the  great  majority  of  mission- 
aries who  have  labored  in  African  fields  have  had 
more  zeal  than  practical  knowledge.  Any  person 
professing  faith  in  Christ  has  seemingly  been  re- 
garded as  sufficiently  well  fitted  for  missionary 
work  in  Africa.  Many  persons  who  have  gained 
experience  merely  as  colporteurs,  tract  distributers, 
prayer-meeting  leaders,  or  missionaries  to  the  out- 
casts of  civilized  communities,  have  been  sent  to 
Africa  to  instruct  and  evangelize  the  heathen, 
many  of  whom  have  more  natural  shrewdness 
than  their  teachers  have  acquired  ability.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  suppose  that  an  uncivilized  person  is 
necessarily  an  ignoramus,  and  that  all  the  so-called 
heathen  countries  are  overcast  with  a pall  of  deep 
and  impenetrable  gloom.  As  I understand  it,  tbe 
majority  of  missionaries,  who  have  gone  into 
heathen  lands,  have  made  the  mistake  of  trying  to 
Christianize  the  people  before  civilizing  them. 
This,  at  least,  in  my  opinion,  is  especially  true  in 
regard  to  Africa.  In  the  discussion  of  this  subject 
I propose  to  deal  not  with  theories,  glowing  with 
enthusiasm  and  sentiment,  but  with  frozen  facts. 
Every  missionary  who  has  labored  on  the  West 
and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  must  admit  that 


90 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


the  two  chief  drawbacks  to  his  success  are  to  be 
found  in  the  power  of  the  chiefs  and  medicine 
men,  and  the  indolence  of  the  people.  Civiliza- 
tion, and  consequently  the  Christian  Religion,  can 
only  advance  in  proportion  as  the  power  of  the 
chiefs  and  medicine  men  is  destroyed.  The  rule 
of  the  chiefs  is  despotic,  while  the  influence  of  the 
medicine  men  is  all-powerful.  The  latter,  in  many 
respects,  really  control  and  influence  the  former. 
In  all  ages  the  influence  of  the  priesthood  over 
the  people  has  apparently  been  absolute,  which 
tends  to  create  slavish  fear  rather  than  liberty  of 
thought  and  independence  of  action.  Numbers  of 
African  youth,  who  have  been  carried  to  civilized 
centers  and  educated  in  colleges  and  universities, 
on  returning  to  their  native  country  and  tribes, 
have  doffed  the  habiliments  of  civilization  and  dis- 
carded the  customs  of  civilized  society  to  resume 
the  habit  and  customs  of  their  savage  kinsmen. 
This  procedure  may  appear  strange  to  those  who 
are  unacquainted  with  the  life  of  native  Africans. 
It,  however,  is  not  the  result  of  their  own  choice; 
it  is  prompted  by  the  dread  and  fear  of  the  Juju, 
or  medicine  man.  The  educated  African  youth, 
so  soon  as  he  returns  to  his  home  and  tribe,  be- 
comes an  object  of  suspicion,  envy,  and  hatred  to 
the  medicine  men,  who  in  turn  make  it  their  busi- 
ness to  prejudice  the  king,  or  chief,  against  him, 
in  which  they  are  generally  successful.  There  is 
no  escape  for  the  educated  African  youth  from  the 
ban  of  suspicion  under  which  he  is  thus  placed, 


Missionary  Enterprises. 


91 


except  to  discard  the  ways  of  civilization,  bury  his 
talents  of  acquired  ability,  and  return  to  savage 
life  common  to  the  bushman.  This  he  must  either 
do  or  suffer  banishment,  if  not  death.  So  long  as 
he  maintains  the  ways  of  civilization,  whatever 
misfortunes  may  befall  his  people  will  be  attributed 
to  him.  It  will  be  charged  that  he  has  been  be- 
witched by  the  white  man  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
juring his  own  people.  To  insure  the  safety  of  the 
educated  African,  and  to  make  it  possible  for  him 
to  exert  a civilizing  influence  among  his  people, 
the  power  of  the  chiefs  and  medicine  men  must  be 
destroyed.  Now,  this  cannot  be  done  by  the  mis- 
sionary with  no  other  weapon  than  the  preaching 
of  the  Gospel.  Under  the  circumstances,  moral 
and  religious  influences  alone  cannot  accomplish 
the  desired  result.  The  Gospel  is  doubtless  the 
power  of  God  unto  salvation  ; but  this  is  true  only 
where  the  human  mind  has  been  prepared  to  re- 
ceive and  germinate  the  seed-grain  of  divine  truth. 
But  in  itself,  and  of  itself,  it  has  not  destroyed,  and 
never  will  destroy,  the  power  of  the  chiefs  and  the 
medicine  men  in  Africa,  and  overturn  the  ancient 
rites  and  customs  of  the  people.  The  pathway  for 
the  success  of  the  Gospel  must  be  blazoned  out  by 
the  power  of  organized  government,  which  is  the 
only  force  that  can  overturn  the  power  of  the 
chiefs  and  medicine  men.  Hence,  the  desirability 
of  the  rapid  extension  of  the  jurisdiction  of  or- 
ganized government  on  the  continent  of  Africa. 
Wherever  organized  government  is  wanting,  the 


92 


Glimpses  of  Af  rica. 


efforts  of  missionaries  are  powerless  and  vain.  I 
am  aware  that  I am  trespassing  upon  the  ground 
of  strict  orthodoxy,  whose  chief  exponents  see  only 
the  condition  and  difficulties  of  missionary  work 
in  heathen  lands  from  afar.  I am  also  aware  that 
some  missionaries  will  answer  back  that  the  influ- 
ence of  organized  government  is  degrading  rather 
than  elevating1.  This  class  will  also  assert  the  same 
of  the  extension  of  commerce.  Of  these,  however, 
it  may  be  truly  said  that  they  have  more  zeal  than 
wisdom. 

There  is  no  intention  here  to  reflect  upon  the 
intelligence  of  the  missionaries  in  Africa;  but  if 
one  should  seek  to  obtain  satisfactory  information 
in  regard  to  almost  any  general  subject,  his  efforts 
would  avail  him  little,  if  directed  to  the  average 
missionary  in  that  land.  Knowledge  is  not  the  foe 
of  the  Christian  Religion,  but  its  handmaiden. 
The  Christian  Religion  has  its  place  and  its  work 
in  solving  the  problem  of  human  development  and 
human  destiny,  which  is  equally  true  of  civilization. 
Af  no  place  along  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of 
Africa  which  I visited  is  there  to  be  found  a chapel 
of  even  modest  structure,  or  a church  edifice  with 
a spire,  or  a cathedral,  outside  of  communities 
where  organized  government  exists.  This  ought 
to  be  accepted  as  conclusive  proof  that  organized 
government  is  helpful  to  the  success  of  religious 
enterprises  rather  than  a drawback.  I am,  there- 
fore, an  uncompromising  advocate  of  the  extension 
of  organized  government  in  all  parts  of  Africa. 


KROBOE  PEOPLE  PREPARING  FOOD.  A CABENDA  GIRL. 


Missionary  Enterprises. 


95 


Reference  has  been  made  to  the  indolence  of  the 
people  as  one  of  the  barriers  to  the  success  of  mis- 
sionary projects.  In  my  opinion,  an  idle  hand  has 
never  awakened  in  the  human  mind  a noble 
thought;  and  if  “An  idle  brain  is  the  devil’s  work- 
shop,” it  would  seem  that  an  idle  hand  is  the  key 
which  unlocks  it.  Charity  suggests  the  belief  that 
the  African  is  not  wantonly  indolent,  though  he 
seems  to  be.  But  let  it  be  remembered  that  the 
munificence  of  Nature,  in  relieving  him  to  a great 
extent  of  the  necessity  of  work  to  sustain  life,  ap- 
pears to  largely  indulge  and  approve  his  idleness. 

Howhere  else  on  the  habitable  globe  has  Nature 
bestowed  her  gifts  with  a more  lavish  hand  than 
upon  the  Continent  of  Africa.  Surely  it  is  a land 
where  one  can  reap  without  sowing,  and  gather 
without  scattering  abroad.  It  is  well  known  that 
the  European  speedily  loses  both  physical  and 
mental  vitality  in  tropical  climates — that  he  soon 
experiences  a disposition  toward  indolence.  How- 
ever, this  observation  is  not  made  in  extenuation 
of  the  indolence  of  the  African.  He  can  work  if 
he  will.  Thus  far  the  efforts  of  the  missionaries 
have  been  mainly  directed  toward  trying  to  pound 
the  Gospel  into  the  mind  of  the  untutored  native, 
and  to  persude  him  to  consent  to  be  baptized,  ap- 
parently regarding  this  as  the  sum  total  of  their 
mission.  To  simply  win  the  uncivilized  African 
over  to  a belief  in  the  faith  of  the  Christian  Re- 
ligion, seems  to  be  the  Ultima  Thule  of  the  efforts 
of  the  average  missionary. 


96 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

In  order  to  understand  how  futile  are  all  efforts 
to  Christianize  the  African  without  the  aid  of  civ- 
ilizing forces,  and  to  instruct  him  in  matters  of 
religious  faith  before  teaching  him  the  necessity 
and  value  of  labor,  let  us  note  the  complete  failure 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  to  make  substantial 
converts  to  the  Christian  Religion  in  the  Kingdom 
of  Congo,  from  a time  that  may  he  said  to  be  co- 
eval with  the  discovery  of  that  region. 

The  Kingdom  of  Congo,  as  also  the  great  river 
of  the  same  name,  which  by  the  natives  of  the 
country  is  called  “Zaire,”  was  discovered  by  the 
Portuguese  about  the  year  1485.  It  was  not  a new 
or  isolated  discovery,  but  an  extension  of  those 
which  had  been  made  some  years  before  higher  up 
the  coast. 

A part  of  the  Kingdom  of  Congo  lies  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  while  the  other  part  ex- 
tends to  the  Portuguese  province  of  Angola.  At 
the  time  of  its  greatest  prosperity,  which  was  prob- 
ably the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  it  is 
said  to  have  contained  about  40,000  inhabitants. 

For  many  years  a bishop  and  his  chapter,  a col- 
lege of  Jesuits,  and  a monastery  of  Capuchins, 
were  supported  in  San  Salvador,  which  at  that 
time  vras  the  capital  of  the  whole  Congo  Kingdom, 
at  the  expense  of  the  Portuguese  government. 
Besides  the  cathedral,  of  large  dimensions,  there 
were  ten  smaller  churches,  to  which  the  ordinary 
names  St.  John,  St.  James,  St.  Michael,  St.  An- 
thony, etc.,  were  given,  all  of  which  contributed 


Mission  ary  Enterprises. 


97 


materially  to  beautifying  this  otherwise  barbaric 
city.  It  was  accessible  to  the  whites  by  way  of  the 
river;  but  the  more  common  route  was  through 
the  province  of  Bamba  to  St.  Paul  cle  Loanda. 

On  a third  voyage,  Diego  Cam,  the  discoverer  of 
the  Zaire  or  Congo  River,  took  with  him  twelve 
missionaries  of  the  Franciscan  Order,  who  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  founders  of  the  Christian  Religion 
in  the  Kingdom  of  Congo.  The  Count  of  Sogno, 
and  the  King  of  Congo,  his  nephew,  were  among 
the  first  converts  to  Christianity.  For  a time  the 
hitter  showed  great  zeal  in  promoting  the  new 
religion  among  his  subjects ; but  as  soon  as  he 
found  that  he  was  required  to  give  up  the  multi- 
tude of  wives  who  surrounded  him,  and  be  married 
to  a single  wife,  he  renounced  it,  and  returned  to 
the  religion  of  his  fathers.  His  son  and  successor, 
Don  Alphonso  I.,  felt  no  such  difficulty.  lie  not 
only  embraced  Christianity  himself,  but  did  all  he 
could  to  promote  its  interest  throughout  his  realm. 
His  brother,  Pasanquitama,  was  a man  of  a very 
different  spirit,  and  finding  there  was  quite  a pop- 
ular dislike  to  the  new  religion,  availed  himself  of 
it  in  order  to  raise  a rebellion  against  bis  brother. 
The  armies  of  the  two  brothers  bad  scarcely  en- 
gaged in  battle  when  St.  James  was  distinctly  seen 
fighting  on  the  side  of  the  king,  and  victory,  of 
course,  soon  turned  in  his  favor.  Pasanquitama 
was  not  only  beaten,  but  was  made  a prisoner. 
He  refused  to  ransom  his  life  by  embracing  Chris- 
tianity, and  was  accordingly  executed.  It  fared 
7 


98 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


differently  with  his  general,  who  was  pardoned  on 
the  condition  of  becoming  a Christian,  but  had  to 
do  penance  in  the  way  of  bringing  water  for  all 
who  were  baptized  in  the  capital.  Soon  after  this 
signal  victory  in  behalf  of  Christianity,  a large  re- 
inforcement of  missionaries  was  sent  out  by  the 
Society  de  Propaganda  Fide , most  of  whom  were 
from  the  Italian  states,  and  in  the  course  of  ten  or 
twenty  years  the  entire  population  of  Congo  was 
gathered  into  the  pale  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church. 

About  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  how- 
ever, the  labors  of  the  missionaries  met  with  a 
serious  interruption  in  consequence  of  an  invasion 
of  the  country  by  hordes  of  the  warlike  Giaghi. 
The  Congolese  army,  though  large  and  well  dis- 
ciplined, was  scattered  like  chaff’  before  these  de- 
termined invaders.  San  Salvador  was  burned  to 
the  ground,  and  the  king  and  his  people  had  to 
betake  themselves  to  the  “Isle  of  Horses”  on  the 
Zaire  for  safety. 

The  missionaries,  who  it  is  supposed  retired  to 
Angola  during  this  strife,  returned  to  their  labors, 
and  having  been  reinforced  by  new  recruits  from 
Europe,  not  only  re-established  the  Catholic  wor- 
ship in  all  the  provinces  of  Congo,  but  extended 
their  labors  into  neighboring  districts  over  which 
the  King  of  Congo  had  no,  jurisdiction.  They 
crossed  the  Zaire,  and  were  nearly  as  successful  in 
making  converts  in  Cabenda  and  Loango  as  they 
had  been  in  Congo.  Though  hostilities  were  sus- 


D WALLA  PEOPLE-INTERIOR  OF  CAMEROONS. 


Missionary  Enterprises. 


101 


pended  between  the  countries  of  Sogno  and  Congo, 
the  former  was  never  afterward  united  to  the  crown 
of  the  latter.  The  part  which  the  Portuguese  had 
taken  at  the  commencement  of  these  troubles  made 
them  ever  afterward  intolerably  odious  to  the  Sog- 
noese.  The  principal  Sognoese  official  indulged 
resentment  by  persecuting  the  missionaries  in  his 
country.  It  was  not  long,  however,  according  to 
the  statements  of  the  missionaries,  before  this  deed 
of  violence  recoiled  with  redoubled  force  upon  the 
chief  official's  own  head. 

About  the  same  time,  Don  Alvaro  II.  sent  to 
Pope  Urban  VIII.  for  a new  recruit  of  mission- 
aries. In  compliance  with  this  request  twelve 
Capuchins  were  sent,  but  having  been  detained  on 
account  of  the  war  with  Spain,  they  did  not  reach 
Congo  until  after  the  king’s  death.  A part  of  this 
company  remained  with  the  chief  official  of  Sogno, 
and  the  others  found  their  way  to  San  Salvador, 
where  they  were  kindly  received  by  Don  Garcia 
II.,  the  son  and  successor  of  Don  Alvaro.  The 
reign  of  Don  Garcia  was  short,  and  he  was  succeeded 
by  Don  Antonio  I.,  who,  by  his  unparalleled  wick- 
edness and  brutality,  not  only  threw  his  whole 
kingdom  into  disorder  and  anarchy,  but  nearly 
obliterated  every  trace  of  Christianity  from  the 
land.  He  treated  the  missionaries  with  so  much 
indignity  that  they  were  compelled  to  fljT  from  his 
realm.  In  a subsequent  conflict  with  the  Portu- 
guese of  Angola,  Don  Antonio  was  killed,  and  his 
crown  was  taken  to  St.  Paul  de  Loanda,  which  led 


102 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


to  the  dissolution  of  the  Sogno  government.  Some 
of  the  missionaries,  however,  returned  to  the  Sogno 
country,  and  continued  their  labors  in  some  parts 
of  it.  During  the  earlier  part  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury their  authority  in  Sogno  was  nearly  as  great 
as  it  had  ever  been — so  much  so  that  English  ves- 
sels could  not  buy  slaves  in  the  port  of  Sony  with- 
out first  conciliating  their  good  will. 

Subsequently  they  abandoned  the  country  alto- 
gether; and  not  only  all  of  their  former  civiliza- 
tion, but  almost  every  trace  of  Christianity  disap- 
peared, and  the  whole  country  fell  back  into  the 
deepest  ignorance  and  heathenism,  and  into  greater 
wickedness  and  poverty  than  had  ever  been  expe- 
rienced, even  before  its  discovery. 

Captain  Tuckey,  who  was  sent  by  the  English 
government  in  1816  to  explore  the  Congo  River, 
states  that  three  years  previously  some  missionaries 
had  been  murdered  in  Sogno,  and  that  a Portuguese 
pinnace  had  been  cut  off  by  the  natives  at  the  same 
time.  During  his  sojourn  in  the  country  he  found 
no  traces  of  Catholicism,  except  a few  crucitixes 
and  relics  strangely  mixed  up  with  the  charms  and 
fetiches  of  the  country,  which  were  no  doubt  dis- 
tributed by  Portuguese  slave  traders  who  still  fre- 
quented the  river.  At  the  present  time  not  even 
these  fragments  of  Romanism  can  be  found,  except 
it  be  the  crucifixes  and  pictures  which  have  been 
distributed  by  the  Portuguese  and  Spanish  ex-slave 
traders.  So  far  as  civilization,  order,  and  industry 
are  concerned,  we  scarcely  noted  any  community 


Missionary  En terprises. 


ioa 


on  the  whole  coast  of  Africa  that  will  not  compare 
to  advantage  with  the  poor,  miserable,  and  degrad- 
ed inhabitants  to  be  found  along  the  banks  of  the 
Lower  Congo  at  the  present  time.  It  is  not  easy 
to  say  how  much  civilization  there  was  in  the  Con- 
go in  the  days  of  its  greatest  prosperity.  The  state- 
ments of  the  missionaries,  upon  which  we  are  in  a 
great  measure  dependent  for  all  the  information  we 
can  get,  are  so  deeply  tinged  with  the  marvelous, 
and  are  so  grossly  exaggerated  withal,  that  they 
cannot  be  received  without  great  abatement.  They 
use  language  that  would  indicate  great  commercial 
prosperity,  and  an  amount  of  civilization  of  no  or- 
dinary grade  for  that  age  of  the  world. 

Father  Carli  states  that  when  he  arrived  in  Bom- 
ba (now  Boma),  about  the  year  1G67,  the  great 
Duke  had  just  disbanded  an  army  of  150,000,  with 
which  he  had  in  vain  tried  to  effect  the  subjugation 
of  the  Count  of  Sogno.  Professor  Bitter,  who  had 
advantages  for  examining  all  that  was  written  by 
the  missionaries  in  relation  to  the  Kingdom  of  Con- 
go, states  upon  their  authority  that  the  great  Duke 
of  Bomba  could  at  any  time  raise,  in  his  own  prov- 
ince alone,  400,000  troops.  The  statement  is  not 
only  made,  but  indorsed  by  several  of  the  most  in- 
telligent and  respectable  missionaries,  that  one  of 
the  kings  of  Congo,  who  was  no  doubt  Antonio  I., 
had  raised  an  army  of  900,000.  It  will  be  well, 
though,  for  the  modern  reader  of  these  statements 
to  receive  them  with  a large  grain  of  allowance. 

It  was  a great  surprise  to  me  to  note  that  the  na- 


104 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


tives  in  the  Lower  Congo  country,  and  in  the  Por- 
tuguese province  of  Angola,  are  so  far  removed 
Irom  a state  of  civilization.  This,  though,  is  only 
one  of  the  many  proofs  that  something  else  is  nec- 
essary to  secure  the  civilization  of  a heathen  people 
than  merely  to  expound  the  Gospel. 

The  idea  that  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel  is  suf- 
ficientto  civilize  a heathen  people  is  natural  enough, 
but  is  wholly  untenable.  It  implies  the  belief  that 
the  only  hindrance  to  the  conversion  of  the  heathen 
to  Christianity  is  ignorance,  whereas  the  greatest 
obstacle  consists  in  indolence,  or  an  aversion  to  the 
exercise  of  those  energies  which  alone  can  secure 
the  prosperity  of  any  people.  It  is  useless  to  look 
for  any  upward  tendencies  on  the  part  of  the  mem- 
bers of  a heathen  community  until  their  industrial 
and  intellectual  faculties  are  awakened. 

It  is  impossible  to  say  how  many  missionaries  were 
sent  at  different  times  to  the  Congo  country.  Fa- 
ther Merolla  mentions  incidentally  at  least  one  hun- 
dred. The  number  of  churches  and  other  places  of 
public  worship  were  very  considerable.  It  is  prob- 
able that  in  the  entire  kingdom  there  were  not  less 
than  one  hundred  consecrated  churches,  and  per- 
haps two  or  three  times  as  many  other  places  where 
priests  were  in  the  habit  of  performing  baptism  and 
celebrating  the  mass.  There  were  no  acts  of  pen- 
ance or  humiliation  inflicted  upon  the  sovereigns 
of  Europe,  when  the  Church  of  Rome  was  at  the 
zenith  of  her  power,  that  these  missionaries  had 
not  the  satisfaction  of  seeing- the  humbler  chiefs  of 


CATHOLIC  CHURCH  AND  SCHOOL,  FERNANDO  PO. 


CATHOLIC  SCHOOL,  ELOBY  ISLAND. 


Mission  a ry  Enterprises. 


107 


Congo  subjected  to.  One  can  readily  imagine  with 
what  awe  it  must  have  struck  the  simple-minded 
Africans  to  see  the  Count  of  Sogno,  the  most  pow- 
erful chief  of  the  kingdom,  prostrated  at  the  church 
door,  clothed  in  sackcloth,  with  a crown  of  thorns 
on  his  head,  a crucifix  in  his  hand,  a rope  about  his 
neck,  while  his  courtiers  were  looking  on,  clothed 
in  their  most  brilliant  robes. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  was  not  established 
in  Congo  in  a hasty  and  superficial  manner.  It  was 
a work  at  which  successive  bands  of  missionaries 
labored  with  untiring  assiduity  for  two  centuries. 
Among  them  were  some  of  the  most  learned  and 
able  men  that  Rome  ever  sent  to  the  pagan  world. 
It  was  a cause,  too,  that  always  lay  near  the  heart 
of  the  King  of  Portugal,  when  that  nation  was  at 
the  climax  of  power  and  wealth.  The  royal  sword 
was  ever  ready  to  be  unsheathed  for  its  defense, 
and  her  treasures  were  poured  out  for  its  support 
without  stint. 

But  what  has  become  of  this  church,  with  all  its 
resources  and  power?  Where  are  the  results  of 
this  religious  conquest  that  cost  so  much,  and  of 
which  Rome  had  boasted  in  such  unmeasured  terms 
of  exultation  ? To  answer  these  questions  impar- 
tially, the  friends  of  Rome  must  acknowledge  that 
they  constructed  a religious  edifice  in  the  heart  of 
this  pagan  empire  that  could  not  stand  alone  by  its 
own  strength  ; for  as  soon  as  the  hand  which  reared 
and  for  a time  upheld  it  was  withdrawn  it  fell  to 
pieces.  Kay,  more!  To  acknowledge  the  whole 


108 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


truth,  not  only  has  this  great  ecclesiastical  temple 
crumbled  to  the  dust,  but  it  has  left  the  unfortunate 
inhabitants  of  that  country  in  as  deep  ignorance 
and  superstition,  and  perhaps  in  greater  poverty 
and  degradation,  than  they  would  have  been  if  Ho- 
man Catholicism  had  never  been  proclaimed  among 
them. 

Among  the  causes  to  which  the  downfall  of  Ro- 
manism in  Congo  have  been  ascribed  are  the  de- 
cline of  the  Portuguese  power  and  the  insalubrity 
of  the  climate.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  the 
main  cause  which  contributed  to  the  extinction  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  in  Congo  was  the 
comfort  which  it  always  accorded  to  the  foreign 
slave  trade.  The  missionaries  not  only  tolerated 
the  slave  trade,  but  participated  in  it. 

By  an  arrangement  with  the  civil  authorities,  all 
persons  convicted  of  celebrating  the  rites  of  the  an- 
cient religion  of  the  natives  were  delivered  up  to 
the  missionaries,  and  by  them  sold  to  the  first  slave 
vessel  which  entered  the  river.  Perhaps  it  is  but 
just  to  make  allowance  for  the  age  in  which  these 
missionaries  lived,  and  it  is  essential  to  remember 
that  the  whole  Christian  world — Protestant  as  well 
as  Papal — countenanced,  either  directly  or  indirect- 
ly, the  African  slave  trade. 

The  Catholic  missionaries  were  most  zealous  in 
persuading  the  natives  to  consent  to  be  baptized. 
One  missionary  is  reported  to  have  baptized  2,700  in 
two  years ; another,  to  have  baptized  5,000  children 
in  a few  days  ; and  another,  to  have  baptized  12,000 


Missionary  Enter pr iscs. 


109 


adults  in  less  than  a year.  Father  Merolla  states 
that  he  had  baptized  as  many  us  272  in  one  day, 
and  in  less  than  live  years  had  baptized  more  than 
13,000.  It  is  reported  that  one  missionary  had 
baptized  100,000  during  a residence  of  twenty 
years. 

Among  the  difficulties  which  the  missionaries  in 
earlier  times  had  to  encounter,  and  which  impede  the 
progress  of  the  missionaries  of  the  present,  are  cer- 
tain customs — namely,  the  binding  around  the  body 
of  every  new-born  infant  a cord  of  some  kind,  to 
which  are  fastened  the  bones  and  teeth  of  certain 
wild  animals,  which  are  regarded  as  a sort  of  charm 
to  preserve  the  health  and  life  of  the  child;  the 
handing  over  of  every  new-born  infant  to  a native 
priest  or  medicine  man  to  tell  its  fortune;  the  in- 
terdicting to  every  person  at  their  birth  some  arti- 
cle of  food  which  they  are  not  through  life,  upon 
any  consideration,  to  put  in  their  mouth  ; the 
guarding  of  their  fruit  trees  and  patches  of  grain 
with  fetiches,  which  are  supposed  to  possess  the 
power  of  banishing  all  transgressors.  The  uncivil- 
ized African  evidently  feels  that  in  energy  of  char- 
acter, in  scope  of  understanding,  in  the  exercise 
of  mechanical  skill,  and  in  the  practice  of  all  the 
useful  arts  of  life,  he  is  hopelessly  distanced  by  the 
European.  But,  whenever  the  precincts  of  the  un- 
known and  mysterious,  the  realms  where  the  im- 
agination alone  can  travel,  are  entered  there  is  no 
place  where  he  feels  more  at  borne;  and  the  end- 
less variety  of  fantastic  images  which  he  brings 


110 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


forth  from  these  mysterious  regions  show  that  he 
is  a dreamer,  rather  than  a practical  thinker  and 
actor.  How  to  overcome  this  condition  so  as  to 
bring  him  to  a proper  understanding  and  appreci- 
ation of  the  inspiration,  thought,  life,  and  power 
of  the  Gospel,  is  the  question  which  most  seriously 
confronts  all  missionaries  now  laboring  in  the 
“ Dark  Continent.”  The  seed,  which  has  been  sown 
in  earnest  faith,  and  ofttimes  in  weeping,  has  not 
thus  far  produced  such  an  abundant  harvest  as  was 
expected. 

It  may  be  well  and  truly  said  that  the  Catholics, 
though  “all  things  unto  all  men,”  even  in  “ Darkest 
Africa,”  are  attaining  most  valuable  and  practical 
results  in  their  efforts  to  civilize  the  raw  native. 
They  have  entirely  ignored  the  methods  of  the 
missionaries  of  their  church,  as  practiced  by  them 
in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries  ; and 
have  learned  to  strike  at  the  root  of  the  tree,  if 
they  would  gain  permanent  results  in  the  civiliza- 
tion and  Christianization  of  these  uncivilized  peo- 
ple. At  a number  of  points  along  the  Southwest 
Coast  they  have  been  quite  successful  in  establish- 
ing “Missionary  Farms,”  which  have  also  attached 
to  them  mechanical  departments,  where  the  native 
youth  of  both  sexes  are  taught  the  elements  of 
religion.  Besides  religious  training,  the  males  are 
taught  agricultural  pursuits  and  mechanical  arts — 
such  as  carpentry,  tailoring,  stone  masonry,  brick- 
laying, etc.  I visited  one  of  these  Farms  at  Banda- 
na, in  the  Portuguese  province  of  Cabenda,  for  the 


LAGOS  MOHAMMEDAN. 


Missiona  i y Enter  prises. 


113 


purpose  of  making  personal  observations,  and  I 
was  delighted  with  the  magnificence  and  extent  of 
the  plant,  and  the  methods  in  vogue  for  the  secular 
and  religious  instruction  of  the  youth.  The  cam- 
pus, which  encloses  the  buildings  devoted  to  instruc- 
ton  in  letters,  agriculture,  mechanism,  and  religion, 
is  beautified  with  broad  avenues,  lined  on  either 
side  by  cultivated  native  flowers,  and  enriched  with 
a profusion  of  native  fruits.  All  the  buildings,  in- 
cluding the  chapel,  are  well  constructed  and  very 
inviting  in  appearance,  and  for  beauty  and  attract- 
iveness were  certainly  a revelation  to  me.  At  the 
time  I visited  this  Mission  there  were  270  boys 
under  the  instruction  of  7 Brothers,  and  110  girls 
under  the  instruction  of  7 Sisters.  It  is  in  charge 
of  Portuguese  Catholics.  Here  the  males  and  fe- 
males are  entirely  separated  from  each  other.  The 
ofiice  of  the  Father  Superior  is  connected  with  all 
the  buildings  on  the  campus  by  electric  bells. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  good  spring  water,  which 
is  distributed  to  the  several  buildings  by  the  force 
of  a windwill,  which  was  designed  by  the  Brothers, 
and  constructed  by  them,  with  the  aid  of  the  boys. 
I was  most  cordially  received  by  the  Father  Supe- 
rior, who  was  untiring  in  bis  efforts  to  acquaint  me 
with  their  methods,  and  to  demonstrate  the  good 
results  which  the  institution  was  achieving. 

The  boys  and  girls,  when  once  they  enter  this 
Mission,  are  never  allowed  to  return  to  the  “bush,” 
but  are  continually  kept  under  the  light  of  civiliz- 
ing influences.  They  are  brought  under  rational 
8 


114 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


discipline  when  of  very  tender  years,  with  the  hope 
that  all  the  recollections  of  their  primitive  life  may 
become  wholly  effaced,  and  that  they  may  early 
imbibe  the  blessings  of  civilization.  The  object  of 
those  in  charge  is  to  transplant  them  from  a world 
of  heathenism  to  a world  of  enlightenment.  It  is 
also  their  hope  that  these  boys  and  girls,  when  they 
shall  have  passed  through  the  process  of  training 
amid  these  civilizing  and  Christianizing  surround- 
ings, and  shall  have  reached  the  age  of  maturity,  will 
intermarry,  and  thus  lay  the  foundation  of  civilized 
homes,  hallowed  by  the  blessings  of  Christian  influ- 
ences. No  other  methods  or  aims  than  those  just 
described  can,  in  my  opinion,  possibly  produce  per- 
manent and  beneficial  results  among  the  uncivilized 
peoples  of  Africa. 

Our  ship,  which  remained  at  Landana  loading 
cargo  for  nearly  two  days,  was  abundantly  sup- 
plied with  fruits  and  vegetables  from  the  Mission. 

I have  been  frequently  asked  if  missions  can  be 
made  self-supporting  in  Africa.  My  answer  has 
been  and  is  that  such  can  be  accomplished  only 
after  the  outlay  of  a certain  amount  of  money  and 
the  lapse  of  a certain  length  of  time.  Missions  can- 
not be  made  self-supporting  at  once,  and  the  man 
who  claims  that  they  can  be  is  doubtless  possessed 
of  a disordered  brain.  The  human  system,  nur- 
tured by  the  favorable  influences  of  the  temperate 
region,  when  it  enters  the  tropics  requires  the  very 
best  of  nourishing  and  stimulating  support,  and 
even  then  rapidly  declines  in  vigor. 


M issionary  E-n  ter  prises. 


115 


Wliat  Africa  needs  is  the  Gospel  of  the  value  of 
word  and  how  to  work — an  idea  which  took  hold 
upon  the  minds  of  some  of  the  first  missionaries  to 
West  Africa,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  following  ex- 
tracts from  Bishop  Ingham’s  book,  “ Sierra  Leone 
After  a Hundred  Years  ” : 

In  the  year  1815  the  Church  Missionary  Society  of  Great 
Britain  erected  a Christian  institute  on  Leicester  Mountain, 
which  was  occupied  in  1816.  An  allotment  of  1,100  acres  had 
been  granted  to  the  Society.  There  wete  at  that  time  about  350 
children  of  both  sexes  enjoying  the  advantages  of  the  excellent 
asylum.  The  boys  were,  for  the  most  part,  instructed  in  differ- 
ent trades — as  carpenters,  sawyers,  masons,  and  shingle-makers ; 
and  the  girls  in  such  occupations  as  were  suited  to  their  sex  and 
condition.  The  general  principle  acted  upon  was  that  they 
should  be  employed  “ half  the  day  in  work  and  half  the  day  at 
school.” 

The  industrial  feature  was  subsequently  dropped. 
The  folly  of  this  action  is  referred  to  by  Bishop 
Ingham,  when  he  says  : 

We  counsel  a return  to  the  methods  of  instruction  on  Leices- 
ter Mountain,  and  we  welcome  some  recent  resolutions  of  the 
Society  in  this  particular  direction. 

Experience  is  daily  proving  to  those  who  have  eyes  to  see 
that  the  very  peculiar  past  history  of  this  people  demands  spe- 
cial consideration  on  the  part  of  those  who  aspire  to  educate 
them.  Roman  Catholics  seem  to  be  far  ahead  of  us  in  obtain- 
ing practical  results.  How  far  they  fail  in  developing  the  minds 
and  consciences  of  the  African  we  will  not  here  discuss,  but 
their  systems  of  technical  training  are  surely  worthy  of  imita- 
tion. 

The  very  fact  that  there  is  so  little  originality,  and  such  a 
tendency  to  indolence  and  want  of  thrift ; the  very  fact  that  the 
country  around  Sierra  Leone,  and  even  the  greater  part  of  the 
Colony  itself,  is  in  just  as  wild  and  undeveloped  a condition  as 


116 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


when  Clarkson  landed  his  Nova  Scotian  settlers — these  are 
plain  indications  that  there  must  be  something  defective  in  the 
training  which  has  had  so  one-sided  an  effect. 

These  statements  from  one  who  has  spent  ten 
years  in  active  religious  work  among  the  natives 
on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  simply  seem  to  con- 
firm me  in  the  opinion  that  permanent  practical 
results  need  not  he  expected  as  the  outcome  of  mis- 
sionary effort  among  the  uncivilized  Africans  un- 
til there  is  a general  acknowledgment  of  the  fact 
that  the  desideratum  is  to  he  found  in  the  accom- 
plishment of  teaching  the  hand  to  work,  the  mind 
to  think,  and  the  heart  to  love — these  three,  one 
and  inseparable ; but  let  it  be  always  understood 
that  they  must  progress  pari  passu. 


CHAPTER  U I. 


Climatic  Conditions. 


HERE  is  no  feature  of  Africa  which  has  been 


so  horribly  maligned  as  its  climate.  From  the 
time  one  leaves  Liverpool  on  board  a ship  bound 
for  Africa  it  seems  to  be  the  delight  of  the  officers 
and  crew  to  spin  the  most  unfounded  yarns  with 
reference  to  the  climate  of  Africa  and  its  evil  effect 
upon  man.  Every  adjective  or  expletive  that  can 
be  used  in  drawing  the  picture  black  and  gloomy 
is  employed.  Such  terms  as  “ beastly  climate,” 
“difficult  climate,”  “deadly  climate,”  etc.,  and  evi- 
dently used  to  inspire  a nervous  fear  in  the  passen- 
ger who  is  going  out  to  Africa  for  the  first  time, 
are  continually  heard.  It  seems  to  be  the  aim  of 
the  ship’s  officers  to  land  the  passengers  at  their 
destination  with  the  ghouls  of  the  deadly  African 
fever  infesting  their  minds  like  so  many  grim  spec- 
ters. Hot  only  is  this  true  of  the  ship’s  officers, 
but  it  is  true  of  the  traders  as  well.  The  persistent 
exaggeration  of  the  evil  effects  of  the  climate  by 
the  ship’s  officers  and  the  traders,  who  were  en 
route  to  Southwest  Africa,  led  me  to  conclude  that 
there  was  method  in  it.  It  is  possible  that  there  is 
an  agreement  between  the  agents  of  the  steamship 
companies  and  the  firms  doing  business  on  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  to  try  to 


(117) 


118 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


frighten  oft-  those  who  may  be  looking  that  way, 
in  order  to  keep  the  trade  in  the  hands  of  a few. 
The  exaggerations  cannot  possibly  be  conjured  up 
for  mere  sport.  The  great  bulk  of  the  trade  of  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  is  controlled 
by  mercantile  linns  in  Liverpool,  Hamburg,  and 
Havre.  There  is  an  “African  Trade  Section  ” con- 
nected with  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  in  Liver- 
pool, which  exerts  a potent  influence  in  the  admin- 
istration of  the  affairs  in  the  British  Colonies  on 
the  West  Coast.  From  personal  experience  on  the 
British  steamships  “ Benguela,”  “Africa,”  and  “ Ba- 
kana,”  1 feel  quite  justified  in  expressing  the  belief 
that  the  frightful  tales  told  about  Africa  are  chiefly 
circulated  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  certain  classes 
of  persons  away. 

Bishop  Ingham,  in  his  book,  “Sierra  Leone 
After  a Hundred  Years,”  touches  upon  the  matter 
under  consideration  thus : 

Conversations  on  shipboard  do  not  always  tend  to  brighten 
anticipation  of  Western  Africa.  Old  coasters  are  sometimes 
tempted  to  draw  the  longbow  ; but  indeed  it  is  clear,  from  what 
has  been  stated  in  previous  chapters,  that  naked  facts  have  usu- 
ally been  black  enough.  At  Ihe  saloon  table,  for  instance,  you 
hear,  as  we  have  once  heard,  a conversation  like  this:  “Do 
you  remember  Brown?  Well,  he  came  out  two  voyages  ago.” 
Answer:  “Yes.”  “All,  well,  he  is  dead,  poor  fellow ! and  his 
wife  returned  to  England,  and  died  as  the  ship  went  into  Liver- 
pool.” Presently  some  one  asked  us  about  Jones.  “Ah,  poor 
fellow!  he  had  a terrible  fever,  and  got  frightened  and  went 
home;  and  they  say  he  will  never  have  his  health  again.” 
Next  day  some  one  would  venture  to  ask  about  Robinson.  “ Oh, 
don’t  you  know  ? He  went  out  in  this  very  ship,  and  only  lived 


Climatic  Conditions. 


119 


six  months.”  And  so  on.  Sometimes,  alas,  this  kind  of  con- 
versation has  so  worked  upon  the  minds  of  young  men  going 
out  for  the  first  time  that  a nervousness  has  developed,  which 
is  the  first  step  toward  another  breakdown.  We  certainly  ex- 
pected to  have  this  African  fever  as  soon  as  we  landed.  Facts 
certainly  should  not  be  concealed,  but  there  does  seem  to  be 
room  for  more  kindly  consideration  in  this  matter,  and  we  hope 
old  coasters  will  come  to  regard  their  long  ixperience  as  a tal- 
ent in  trust  for  the  benefit  of  their  fellow-sufferers ; and  they 
ought,  in  all  fairness,  not  to  neglect  to  state  that  there  are  “sav- 
ing clauses.” 

I certainly  should  have  been  greatly  confused  and 
in  profound  ignorance  concerning  the  actual  state 
of  the  climate  during  my  voyage,  had  I not  provid- 
ed myself  with  scientific  instruments  before  start- 
ing for  making  meteorological  observations,  which 
I used  daily  at  12  M.,  beginning  September  G,  the 
first  day  out  from  Liverpool,  and  ending  December 
24,  when  we  were  163  miles  from  Liverpool  on  the  re- 
turn voyage.  Before  we  reached  the  Canary  Islands 
awnings  were  spread  over  the  promenade  deck  re- 
served for  first-class  passengers,  the  deck  of  the  fore- 
castle (under  which  the  sailors  usually  sleep  during 
the  time  the  ship  is  in  the  tropics),  and  the  bridge, 
so  as  to  protect  the  several  officers  from  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  during  their  watch.  Upon  inquiry 
as  to  why  the  awnings  were  stretched,  I was  in- 
formed that  it  was  to  prepare  against  the  great 
heat  that  we  should  experience  as  we  approached 
Grand  Canary,  and  which  would  continue  through- 
out the  voyage.  It  was  stated  that  a second  can- 
vas would  be  added  as  soon  as  we  should  leave 
Grand  Canary.  When  we  passed  Grand  Canary 


120 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


the  thermometer  registered  75°  on  board  the  ship 
at  sea,  while  a stiff  breeze  was  blowing  which  had 
a modifying  effect  on  the  temperature.  As  the 
great  heat  which  was  expected  while  passing  Grand 
Canary  did  not  materialize,  I was  informed  that  we 
should  certainly  get  it  while  passing  Cape  Verde. 
When  we  reached  Cape  Verde,  however,  the  ther- 
mometer showed  only  82^°.  It  was  then  stated  that 
without  fail  we  should  feel  the  full  effects  of  the  trop- 
ical sun  when  we  reached  Sierra  Leone.  However, 
when  we  reached  there  it  was  cloudy,  with  show- 
ers of  rain,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  80J°; 
and  after  that  it  did  not  reach  81°  until  we  entered 
the  Congo  River,  except  at  Fernando  Po,  where  it 
registered  86°  on  shore  in  the  shade.  It  was  an 
ideal  day,  and  was  marked  by  a cloudless  sky,  so 
that  there  was  nothing  to  modify  the  effects  of  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun.  The  fact  that  I had  my 
own  scientific  instruments  doubtless  guarded  me 
against  being  bored  with  highly-colored  and  exag- 
gerated stories  of  the  “ beastly  African  climate.” 
Ido  not  hesitate  to  assert  that  the  climate  of  trop- 
ical Africa  is  unfriendly  to  all  persons  reared  in  the 
temperate  regions.  It  is,  however,  no  more  un- 
friendly than  are  portions  of  India.  Persons  going 
there  as  missionaries,  traders,  or  adventurers  ought 
not  to  be  younger  than  twenty-one  nor  older  than 
thirty  years  of  age.  It  is  true  that  some  few  per- 
sons have  gone  there  after  they  were  more  than  thir- 
ty years  of  age,  and  became  successfully  acclimated. 
This,  however,  I would  not  hold  out  as  an  induce- 


Climatic  Conditions. 


121 


meat  to  other  persons  over  thirty  years  of  age  to 
venture  into  the  tropical  climate,  with  a view  to  re- 
maining there  permanently.  As  a rule,  medium- 
sized, thin  men  and  women  succeed  best  in  main- 
taining their  health  and  vigor  in  the  tropics.  It  is 
quite  safe  to  adhere  to  the  principle  that  short, 
spare  men  succeed  best,  though  1 came  in  contact 
with  tall,  corpulent  men  who  were  active,  and  seem- 
ingly in  fairly  good  health.  However,  it  is  stated 
by  those  who  have  had  the  best  opportunities  for 
making  observations  that  the  greatest  number  of 
deaths  and  the  greatest  amount  of  ill  health  have 
occurred  among  the  portly  and  the  tall.  Sobriety 
of  life  is  an  absolute  necessity,  if  one  wishes  to  live 
long  and  well  in  Africa.  The  safest  rule  is  to 
abandon  the  use  of  all  forms  of  alcoholic  stimulants, 
as  a beverage,  from  the  day  one  lands  on  African 
soil.  However,  no  absolute  rule  can  be  laid  down 
for  interdicting  the  use  of  stimulants  in  case  of 
fever,  or  in  regions  where  the  climate  is  exceeding- 
ly depressing.  Champagne  in  small  quantities,  in 
the  treatment  of  numbers  of  persons,  has  proved  to 
be  very  beneficial  in  fevers,  as  a supporting  stimu- 
lant. It  has  been  asserted  and  reasserted  that  no 
form  of  alcoholic  stimulant  should  be  drunk  dur- 
ing the  day — between  sunrise  and  sunset — even 
though  it  should  be  ordered  by  a physician.  The 
reason  assigned  is  that  alcohol  taken  during  the 
daytime  in  Africa  is  simply  poison  to  a person 
reared  in  a temperate  climate,  which  often  disguises 
its  effects,  but  a deadly  poison  all  the  same ; and 


122 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


perhaps  more  deadly  because  the  pain  it  inflicts  is 
not  readily  perceived.  My  observation  leads  me  to 
believe  that  this  rule  is  not  universal  in  its  applica- 
tion. There  was  a party  of  six  traders  on  board 
the  steamship  “ Benguela,”  en  route  to  the  South- 
west Coast  of  Africa,  who  drank  almost  incessant- 
ly from  the  time  they  left  Liverpool  until  they 
reached  their  respective  placesof  destination.  Their 
drinking  was  so  excessive  as  to  at  times  suggest  to 
me  the  probability  that  they  had  cast-iron  stom- 
achs. It  is  true  that  there  were  but  few  times  when 
they  were  “beastly”  intoxicated,  but  they  were 
“full  ” all  the  time.  On  our  homeward  voyage  I 
had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  three  of  their  num- 
ber. One  (a  young  man),  who  had  entered  upon 
his  first  term  of  service,  was  stricken  with  the  fever 
within  one  hour  after  he  left  the  ship.  Another 
had  been  sick,  but  was  convalescent,  and  came 
aboard  the  ship  to  see  some  of  the  officers.  He 
had  just  entered  upon  his  second  term  of  service  of 
three  years.  The  third  I saw  at  Cameroons  Town, 
and  he  seemingly  looked  better  than  when  he  dis- 
embarked from  the  ship  about  five  weeks  pre- 
viously. 

On  the  homeward  voyage  we  had  a number  of 
new  passengers,  one  of  whom  had  served  two  terms 
of  three  years  each  in  the  upper  Congo,  one  a sin- 
gle term  of  three  years  in  the  same  region,  and  at 
Cabenda  a passenger  was  added  to  the  list  who 
had  completed  seven  years’  service  on  the  South- 
west Coast.  We  also  brought  two  civilized  natives 


Climatic  Conditions. 


123 


(young  men),  one  of  whom  lnid  served  two  terms 
of  three  years  each  in  the  upper  Congo,  and  the 
other  one  term.  We  also  received  two  additional 
passengers  at  Batanga — a trader  and  a German 
Catholic  missionary  en  route  to  Europe.  All  these 
parties,  without  exception,  drank  regularly  some 
form  of  alcoholic  stimulants.  The  missionaries 
confined  themselves  to  wine  and  beer;  the  others 
covered  every  form  of  drink  that  was  obtainable. 
A few  of  them  drank  to  excess,  but  the  majority 
were  what  might  be  termed  moderate  drinkers. 
All  the  passengers  on  the  homeward  voyage  had 
been  victims  of  the  African  fever,  and  some  who 
had  suffered  more  than  one  attack  claimed  that  the 
use  of  alcoholic  stimulants  in  some  form  was  a ne- 
cessity, in  order  to  brace  them  up  against  its  weak- 
ening effects. 

I am  satisfied  that  there  can  he  no  error  in  the 
statement  that  in  the  tropics  the  use  of  the  stronger 
forms  of  alcohol — such  as  whiskey,  brandy,  rum, 
gin,  etc. — is  highly  deleterious  to  the  human  sys- 
tem. Its  use  is  not  even  essential  to  produce  pro- 
fuse perspiration,  which  is  most  desirable  in  cases 
of  fever.  A hot  lemonade,  made  of  lime  juice  when 
lemons  are  not  procurable  (and  limes  are  to  be 
found  in  abundance  on  the  West  and  Southwest 
Coast  of  Africa),  will  readily  stimulate  abundant 
perspiration.  I think,  however,  that  champagne 
given  in  small  quantities,  or  claret  soda  (being  a 
mixture  of  claret  wine  and  soda  water),  is  very  re- 
freshing and  acceptable  during  the  intervals  be- 


124 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


tween  the  paroxysms  of  the  fever  and  during  con- 
valescence. When  one’s  system  is  inoculated  with 
the  miasma  of  African  swamps — and  especially  when 
he  is  under  the  influence  of  African  fever — water, 
to  a great  extent,  becomes  insipid  and  undesirable. 
Under  such  circumstances  claret  wine  is  mixed  with 
the  water  to  render  it  palatable.  Many  use  this 
mixture  while  in  the  rivers,  because  they  find  that 
the  atmosphere  surrounding  them  is  depressing  in 
the  extreme.  It  is  so  depressing  in  its  effects  that 
many  find  it  difficult  to  maintain  comfort  without 
some  stimulant,  soda  claret  seemingly  being  the 
preference.  During  the  six  days  we  were  in  the 
Congo  River  nearly  everybody  aboard  the  ship  ex- 
perienced more  or  less  a “feverish  feeling,”  and  all 
were  glad  when  we  passed  out  into  the  open  sea. 

In  the  river  Rio  del  Ray  the  atmosphere  was  so 
stifling  and  depressing  as  to  cause  serious  alarm 
among  some  of  the  passengers.  We  remained 
there  all  night,  breathing  the  miasma  from  the 
deep  mangrove  swamps,  which  line  both  sides  of 
the  river.  But  little  comfort  was  experienced  by 
any  of  the  passengers  that  night,  and  the  most  ar- 
dent advocate  of  teetotalism  would  have  been 
tempted  to  have  waived  his  conscientious  scruples, 
and  drank  at  least  a claret  soda  or  a claret  lemon- 
ade. 

I mention  these  things,  which  are  matters  of 
personal  observation,  to  emphasize  the  fact  that 
persons  going  to  tropical  Africa  should  be  governed 
by  the  dictates  of  reason  and  common  sense,  rather 


Climatic  Conditions. 


125 


than  iron-clacl  rules  laid  down  by  theorists.  It  may 
also  be  found  that  even  in  tropical  Africa  what  may 
be  one  person’s  food  may  be  another  person’s  poi- 
son, and  vice  versa.  Moderation  and  temperance  in 
all  things  should  govern  the  conduct  and  habits  of 
individuals,  wherever  they  may  be  found. 

I am  not  sure  but  that  indolence  has  something 
to  do  with  Europeans  succumbing  readily  to  the 
fever.  It  seems  to  be  understood  that  no  European 
goes  to  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  to 
work.  The  natives  are  to  do  the  work,  while  the 
European  superintends  it.  It  is  evident  that  ex- 
cessive exercise  is  hurtful  to  the  European  in  trop- 
ical Africa,  and  it  is  just  as  evident  that  no  exercise 
or  too  little  exercise  is  quite  as  hurtful.  A moder- 
ate amount  of  physical  exertion  daily  is  not  only 
beneficial,  but  essential. 

ISText.  in  danger  to  alcoholic  excess  is  gluttony. 
Europeans  seemingly  forget  that  one  of  the  effects 
of  the  torrid  zone  is  to  relax  every  part  of  the  hu- 
man system,  both  physical  and  mental,  and  that  the 
digestive  organs,  being  relaxed,  cannot  perform  the 
same  amount  of  work  when  possessed  of  that  tonic- 
ity which  the  temperate  zone  produces.  Then  many 
persons  have  a craving  for  fat,  oily  substances  and 
sweetmeats — an  appetite  which  they  insist  on  indulg- 
i ng,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  fat  substances  and 
sweetmeats  are  the  most  prolific  breeders  of  bilious 
fever  in  a tropical  climate.  The  ordinary  living  of 
first-class  passengers  on  an  African  steamship  is  tea 
with  biscuit  at  6 a.  m.,  breakfast  at  8 a.  m.,  lunch  at 


120 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


1 p.  m.,  tea  with  biscuit  at  5 p.  m.,  and  dinner  at  7 
p.  m.,  which  in  my  opinion  otters  too  many  tempta- 
tions to  eat,  considering  the  limited  means  for  tak- 
ing exercise.  Most  passengers,  however,  take  it 
all  in.  In  my  own  case  I invariably  avoided  the  7 
o’clock  dinners,  and  trained  myself  to  an  abstemi- 
ous mode  of  living. 

Excesses  in  immorality  are  also  a source  of  dan- 
ger. Strange  as  it  may  seem,  yet  it  is  nevertheless 
true  that  most  Europeans  on  reaching  Africa  give 
themselves  up  to  a life  of  unbridled  lust.  It  is  true 
that  those  who  are  mainly  connected  with  the  trad- 
ing places  arc  young  men.  Their  common  sense, 
however,  ought  to  teach  them  that  the  vices  of 
youth  are  just  as  destructive  in  tropical  Africa  as 
they  are  in  their  own  European  communities.  Un- 
fortunately many  of  the  young  men  who  go  to  Af- 
rica belong  to  the  vicious  classes  at  home,  and  are 
related  to  people  who  are  bankrupt  not  only  in 
purse  and  in  intelligence,  but  in  morals  as  well. 

There  are  no  storms  or  heavy  gales  along  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa.  One  may 
travel  day  after  day  in  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean, 
and  find  its  bosom  no  more  agitated  than  is  an  in- 
fant asleep.  When  storms  or  hurricanes  rage  at 
certain  seasons  they  are  of  short  duration,  generally 
not  lasting  more  than  a half  hour,  and  even  then 
they  do  not  rage  with  that  ferocity  which  is  charac- 
teristic of  them  in  the  northern  latitudes.  The  wa- 
ter of  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean  is  somewhat  heav- 
ier than  that  of  the  North  Atlantic,  which  is 


Climatic  Conditions. 


127 


accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  sun  in  the  equa- 
torial regions  absorbs  a great  deal  of  the  fresh  wa- 
ter of  the  ocean,  leaving  behind  the  saline  matter. 

In  speaking  of  the  climate,  Bishop  Ingham,  in 
his  book,  “Sierra  Leone  After  a Hundred  Years,” 
page  306,  says : 

Every  newcomer  to  this  part  of  Africa  will  almost  certainly 
have  a spell  of  African  fever,  and  any  imprudence  or  sudden 
check  of  perspiration  is  likely  to  bring  it  on  from  time  to  time. 
But  this  fever  is  very  simple  ana  well  understood,  so  long  as 
there  are  no  complications,  and  the  treatment  adopted  tends  to 
relieve  the  system  much  when  the  attack  has  passed  away.  It 
is  a fever  that  rapidly  finds  out  the  weak  places  in  the  system. 

And  those  who  will  live  longest  and  work  best  in  Africa  are 
not  so  much  the  strong  and  robust  and  full-blooded,  perhaps, 
as  those  who,  though  not  altogether  as  vigorous  as  might  be 
wished,  are  yet  sound  in  wind  and  limb.  The  des:derata  for 
health  in  these  parts  are  that  people  should  learn  to  adapt 
themselves  to  the  country  ; never  attempt  to  do  work  by  spurts ; 
never  overtire  or  exhaust  the  frame,  and  avoid  irregularity  and 
insufficiency  in  taking  food.  Whatever  tends  to  lower  the  sys- 
tem invites  the  climate  to  assert  its  injurious-influences.  Steady, 
quiet  work  from  day  to  day,  regular  rest  at  night,  a quiet  noon- 
tide hour  for  rest  and  reading  or  sleep,  a little  food  at  frequent 
intervals,  the  maintenance,  as  far  as  possible,  of  a quiet  mind — 
these  are  not  only  advisable  here,  as  everywhere  else,  but  they 
would  appear  to  be  essential  to  any  long  stay  in  the  country. 
The  African  climate  is  blamed  for  much  of  which  it  is  not 
guilty. 

It  is  popularly  said,  and  said  with  too  much  truth,  that  “ the 
climate  is  carried  about  in  a black  bottle ; ” for  it  cannot  be.  de- 
nied that  excessive  drinking  has  slain,  and  continues  to  slay, 
many  Europeans  along  this  coast.  Sad  instances  are  constantly 
coming  to  light  which  go  to  prove  how  destructive  this  baneful 
habit  is.  This  is  no  country  for  reformed  drunkards  who  have 
suddenly  become  total  abstainers,  but  the  climate  demands 
great  moderation  in  all  things. 


128 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Much  excellent  work  can  he  done  by  European 
men  and  women  in  Africa.  They  must  recruit 
their  energies,  however,  in  their  own  country  from 
time  to  time,  as  it  is  certainly  true  that  Euro- 
peans lose  much  vigor  of  body  and  energy  in  trop- 
ical Africa. 

The  diseases  of  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of 
Africa — and  in  fact  all  Africa — are  few  and  simple, 
and  may  be  summed  up  under  three  heads  : malaria, 
dysentery,  and  smallpox.  Europeans  are  seemingly 
not  subject  to  the  latter.  There  is  only  one  means  by 
which  the  presence  of  malaria  can  either  be  modified 
or  removed,  and  that  is  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil. 
Ventilate  the  soil  of  Africa  by  turning  it  up  and 
exposing  it  to  the  rays  of  the  sun — heat  of  a cer- 
tain temperature  being  destructive  to  all  germs — 
and  it  will  at  once  put  in  operation  the  only  effi- 
cient method  of  ridding  the  West  and  Southwest 
Coast  of  malaria  poison.  Every  foot  of  soil  that  is 
put  under  cultivation  will  prove  a menace  to  the 
continued  existence  of  malaria.  This,  coupled  with 
laws  to  compel  the  natives  to  observe  sanitary  reg- 
ulations, will  in  a comparatively  brief  time  effect  a 
favorable  transformation  in  the  present  climatic 
conditions  of  West  and  Southwest  Africa. 


Climatic  Conditions, 


129 


The  following  is  the 
ical  observations  during 
12  m.  : 


report  of  my  meteorolog- 
the  voyage,  noted  daily  at 


DATE. 

LAT. 

LONG. 

Bar. 

bi) 

M 

<D 

rP 

EH 

REMARKS. 

Sept. 

6. 

50.51 

7.01 

30.50 

59.00 

63.00 

Fair. 

7. 

47.04 

9.20 

30.55 

59.00 

67.00 

“ 

8. 

43.13 

10.58 

30.50 

63.00 

68.00 

“ 

44 

9. 

39.10 

12.12 

30.40 

65.00 

70.50 

“ 

44 

10. 

35.07 

13.29 

30.10 

65.50 

73.00 

Cloudy. 

it 

11. 

31.10 

14.39 

30.20 

59.50 

75.00 

Fair.  Fresh  Breeze. 

12. 

27.21 

15.33 

30.30 

61.00 

76.00 

“ 

13. 

23.36 

16.59 

30.25 

65.50 

75.00 

“ Stiff  breeze. 

14. 

19.52 

18.06 

30.15 

72.50 

80.00 

Partly  cloudy. 

15. 

16.17 

17.52 

30.10 

70.00 

82.50 

Fair.(Rain  storm  2.40p.  m.) 

16. 

12.31 

17.27 

30.12 

72.00 

82.75 

Fair.  Off'  Cape  Verde. 

17. 

9.54 

15.36 

30.12 

73.00 

82.00 

Rain.  Cool  breeze. 

18. 

8.30 

13.18 

30.00 

69.00 

80.25 

Cloudy.  Rain.  (Sierra 

Leone.) 

19. 

30.10 

71.00 

80.00 

Cloudy.  Rain. 

20. 

30.10 

73.00 

80.50 

Cloudy. 

21. 

30.10 

78.00 

79.90 

Fair. 

( i 

22. 

E.  Long. 

30.10 

73.00 

79.90 

Fair  and  hazy. 

(i 

23. 

3°  31' 48" 

0°  11'  30" 

30.10 

73.50 

76.25 

Fair.  (Accra  ) 

( < 

24. 

30.10 

73.00 

78.00 

Cloudy.  (Lagos.) 

4 4 

25. 

30.10 

72.00 

78.40 

Rain  ail  day. 

44 

26. 

30.00 

69.0C 

S0.00 

86  on  shore.  (Fernando  Po.) 

(( 

27. 

30.00 

70.00 

80.50 

At  anchor  in  Victoria. 

i t 

28. 

30.10 

75.00 

79.50 

Rain.  (Cameroon  River.) 

44 

29. 

30.05 

74.00 

80.25 

Fair.  “ 

4 4 

30. 

30.07 

72.00 

80.00 

“ “ “ 

Oct. 

1. 

30.05 

73.00 

80.25 

“ At  Sea. 

2. 

30.00 

72.00 

80.00 

44  44  44 

( 4 

3. 

30.25 

72.00 

80.25 

• “ “ “ 

4 < 

4. 

30.10 

72.00 

82.00 

44  44  44 

(4 

5. 

30.00 

72.00 

80.00 

In  port  at  Eloby. 

<( 

6. 

0°  22'  00" 

9°  23'  00" 

30.05 

71.00 

80.00 

In  port  at  Gaboon. 

(I 

7. 

30.05 

71.00 

80.00 

At  Sea. 

(4 

8. 

30.10 

71.00 

80.00 

“ “ 

44 

9. 

80.00 

72.00 

80.00 

Fair.  (At  anchor  Loango.) 

10. 

30.00 

73.00 

81.00 

“ (Port  Quello.) 

11. 

South. 

East. 

30.05 

74.00 

78.00 

Rain.  (Port  of  Cabenda., 

4 4 

12. 

6°  8' 00" 

12° 11 '00" 

30.00 

74.00 

78.00 

In  the  Congo. 

44 

13. 

30.00 

71.00 

80.00 

44 

14. 

30.00 

68.00 

80.00 

Above  Boma. 

“ 

63.00 

85.00 

4.00  p.  m.  Above  Boma. 

4 4 

15. 

30.00 

67.00 

80.00 

“ 

62.00 

84.00 

4.00  p.  m. 

4 4 

16. 

30.00 

68.00 

82.00 

“ 

86.00 

4.00  p.  m. 

4 ( 

17. 

30.05 

66.00 

80.00 

Rain.  (Matadi.) 

4 4 

18. 

30.00 

66.00 

82.50 

Fair. 

4 4 

19. 

30.00 

70.00 

80.00 

“ (Boma.) 

44 

20. 

30.05 

70.00 

80.00 

“ (Boma.) 

4 4 

21. 

30.15 

70.00 

80.00 

At  Sea. 

9 


130 


Glimpses  of  Africa, 


DATE. 

LAT. 

LONG. 

f-i 

o3 

w 

bib 

W 

<D 

A 

H 

REMARKS. 

South. 

East. 

Oct. 

22. 

8°  48'  05" 

13°  13' 00" 

30.05 

69.00 

80.00 

Fair.  (Loanda.) 

“ 

23. 

30.05 

70.00 

80.00 

Cloudy.  (Ambriz.) 

i ( 

24. 

30.05 

72.00 

80. 0C 

Fair.  (Musera.) 

it 

25. 

30.05 

72.00 

80.00 

“ (Ambrizette.) 

(1 

26. 

30.15 

72.00 

80.00 

“ (At  Sea.) 

< 1 

27. 

30.10 

71.00 

82.00 

Cloudy.  (Muculla.) 

(1 

28. 

30.10 

72.00 

80.00 

Fair.  (Cabenda.) 

It 

29. 

30.10 

72.00 

80.00 

“ (Landana.) 

tt 

30. 

30.10 

72.00 

80.00 

Rain. 

1 1 

31. 

30.00 

72.00 

80.00 

Fair.  (Fouta.) 

Nov. 

1. 

30.00 

72.00 

80.00 

“ (Loango.) 

“ 

2. 

30.10 

71.00 

82.00 

“ (At  Sea.) 

«( 

3. 

30.15 

72.00 

81  00 

Rain.  (SetteCama.) 

4. 

30.10 

72.00 

81.00 

Fair.  (N’gove.) 

it 

5. 

30,10 

72.00 

82.00 

“ (Cape  Lopez.) 

it 

6. 

30.00 

73.00 

82.00 

Rain.  (Gaboon.) 

7. 

30.05 

72.00 

82.00 

Fair 

8. 

30.00 

70.00 

82.00 

Fair.  Eloby. 

9. 

30.00 

70.00 

83.50 

Fair.  (At  Sea.) 

10. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

“ (Cameroon.) 

11. 

30.00 

70.00 

86.00 

ii 

12. 

30.00 

70.00 

86.00 

“ “ 

13. 

30.05 

71.00 

82.00 

At  Sea. 

“ 

14. 

30.00 

71.00 

84.00 

it  a 

“ 

15. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

Rio  del  Ray. 

4i 

16. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

At  Sea. 

tt 

17. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

“ “ 

it 

18. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

Accra  1.30  p.  m. 

( t 

19. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

At  Sen. 

20. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

Fair.  (At Sea.) 

“ 

21. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

«( 

22. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

Monrovia. 

It 

23. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

“ 

“ 

24. 

29.05 

63.00 

84.00 

“ 

25. 

29.05 

63.00 

84.00 

“ 

26. 

30.05 

71.00 

84.00 

Fair.  (Monrovia.) 

“ 

27. 

30.01 

71.00 

84.00 

“ ^ “ 

* l 

28. 

29.05 

70.00 

84.00 

Thunder  and  lightning. 

Earlv  rain.  (Monrovia.) 

29. 

30.00 

70.00 

84.00 

Rain  at  Night.  “ 

“ 

30. 

30.00 

70.00 

86.00 

Cool  and  partly  cloudy. 

Dec. 

1. 

30.00 

54.00 

84.00 

< l 

2. 

10.00 

64.00 

88.00 

Cloudless  at  Sea  4.00  p.  m. 

3. 

30.00 

64.00 

88.00 

“ “ 

( < 

4. 

30.00 

64.00 

38.00 

“ (Sierra  Leone.) 

5. 

30.00 

64.00 

88.00 

6. 

64.00 

88.00 

“ “ “ 

“ 

24. 

30.50 

69.00 

56.00 

At  Sea,  163  miles  from 

Liverpool. 

CHAPTER  Ull. 


No  Special  Inducements  Offered. 

The  last  reason  for  my  going  to  Africa,  as  set 
forth  in  the  preface  to  this  book,  was  to  ascer- 
tain whether  that  Continent  holds  out  any  special 
inducements  to  young,  intelligent,  and  industrious 
Americans  of  African  descent  to  emigrate  there. 
Perhaps  the  greatest  surprise  which  I experienced 
during  my  voyage  was  to  learn  that  it  does  not, 
which  may  seem  to  many  a paradox.  What!  Af- 
rica not  in  need  of  educated  and  industrious  young 
Americans — the  descendants  of  her  own  sons! 
This  I do  not  undertake  to  aver  of  Africa  as  a 
whole,  but  I feel  warranted  in  asserting  that  the 
supply  of  intelligent  natives,  fitted  for  professional 
and  clerical  service,  and  for  the  skilled  industries, 
is  greater  than  the  demand.  I confess  to  a feeling 
of  pleasurable  disappointment  when  the  fact  dawned 
upon  me  that  West  Africa  could  supply  a greater 
number  of  skilled  craftsmen  than  for  whom  places 
could  be  obtained.  No  one  at  a distance  can  fairly 
estimate  the  large  facilities  for  the  instruction  of 
the  natives  in  letters  and  industrial  pursuits  which 
exist  in  Sierra  Leone,  Accra,  and  Lagos  ; while  not 
a few  of  the  natives  on  the  Southwest  Coast  have 
been  educated  in  the  universities  at  Barcelona, 
Spain,  and  at  Lisbon,  Portugal.  At  all  points  on 

(131) 


132 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  where  British, 
French,  German,  Spanish,  and  Portuguese  steam- 
ships regularly  stop  are  to  be  found  educated  natives 
—educated  not  only  in  letters,  but  trained  in  me- 
chanical industries  as  well.  Where  proper  induce- 
ments are  held  out  a fair  proportion  of  the  civilized 
natives  readily  take  to  mechanical  pursuits,  which 
at  least  can  be  stated  of  the  natives  of  Freetown, 
Accra,  and  Lagos. 

It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  Freetown  is  suf- 
fering by  reason  of  a plethora  of  mechanics.  On 
my  voyage  along  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast, 
at  every  important  point  I met  craftsmen  from  Si- 
erra Leone.  There  is  a larger  number  of  houses 
of  European  architecture  in  Freetown  than  is  to 
be  found  at  any  other  place  on  the  West  and 
Southwest  Coast,  except  at  St.  Paul  de  Loanda; 
and  many  of  these  houses  are  not  only  substantial, 
but  ornamental  in  their  structure.  A number  of 
the  craftsmen  of  Freetown  are  stonemasons,  car- 
penters, tailors,  brickmakers,  and  shoemakers. 
There  is  no  addition  needed  to  this  class  of  crafts- 
men at  present,  as  those  already  on  the  ground  are 
more  than  sufficient  to  supply  the  demand.  The 
overplus  seek  employment  elsewhere,  and  are  to  be 
found  along  the  Southwest  Coast.  What  is  true  of 
Freetown  is  also  true  of  Accra  and  Lagos.  Hence 
there  is  no  need  of  American  craftsmen  of  African 
descent  in  the  British  Colonies  on  the  West  Coast 
of  Africa.  The  same  condition  obtains  in  the  Span- 
ish, German,  French,  Belgian,  and  Portuguese  Pos- 


BOY’S  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL,  FREETOWN,  SIERRA  LEONE. 


No  Special  Inducements  Offered. 


135 


sessions  and  Protectorates  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast.  The  philosophy  of  the  situation  will 
be  easily  understood  when  it  is  remembered  that 
the  uncivilized  native  does  not  require  the  services  of 
skilled  craftsmen.  He  has  no  need  of  the  carpen- 
ter, as  he  builds  bis  own  hut,  into  the  construction 
ot  which  neither  stones  nor  bricks  nor  beveled  edged 
and  smooth  surface  boards  enter,  and  the  exterior  of 
which  is  not  brightened  and  adorned  with  paint. 
He  has  no  need  of  the  tailor,  as  he  wears  no  clothes 
except  a loin  cloth.  He  never  avails  himself  of  the 
services  of  a shoemaker,  as  he  wears  no  shoes.  In  a 
word,  the  uncivilized  native  can  fully  supply  his 
own  wants,  which  are  exceedingly  few,  without 
the  aid  of  an  intelligent  craftsman.  This  is  true  of 
the  uncivilized  native  in  every  part  of  Atrica. 
Hence  civilization  must  be  extended  in  order  to 
create  the  need  of  additional  mechanics  on  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa. 

What  has  been  said  in  regard  to  the  oversupply 
of  craftsmen  is  equally  true  in  respect  to  clerks. 
There  is  by  far  a much  larger  number  of  educated 
natives  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa 
than  is  generally  supposed.  For  nearly  three-quar- 
ters of  a century  primary  schools,  high  schools, 
grammar  schools,  and  a college  have  been  afford- 
ing facilities  for  the  education  of  the  youth  of  Free- 
town and  Sierra  Leone.  The  following  is  a list  of 
the  colleges  and  schools:  Fourah  Bay  College,  es- 
tablished February,  1828  ; Grammar  School,  estab- 
lished March,  1845  ; Wesleyan  High  School,  estab- 


136 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


lished  May,  1874  ; the  Anne  Walsh  Memorial  Fe- 
male Institution,  established  1840;  the  Wesleyan 
Female  Educational  Institution,  established  1880; 
and  the  Roman  Catholic  Male  and  Female  High 
Schools,  the  date  of  whose  establishment  is  not 
known.  These  several  educational  institutions 
turn  out  annually  a large  number  of  well-informed 
youths  of  both  sexes.  A large  proportion  of  the 
male  element  is  employed  as  clerks,  and  their  serv- 
ices are  greatly  in  demand  along  the  West  and 
Southwest  Coast. 

At  Accra,  the  seat  of  the  Cold  Coast  Colony,  and 
the  site  of  the  celebrated  Basel  Mission,  many  na- 
tives are  to  be  found  engaged  in  the  trades  and  in 
industrial  pursuits.  Upon  the  authority  of  Payne’s 
Lagos  and  West  African  Almanac  and  Diary  for 
1894,  the  following  account  of  the  establishment  of 
the  Basel  Mission,  which  is  known  far  and  wide  for 
its  beneficial  results,  is  given.  Mr.  Payne’s  state- 
ments on  this  point  are  not  only  interesting,  but 
merit  a high  degree  of  credit,  for  the  reason  that  he 
is  a native  and  a resident  of  Africa.  He  speaks 
thus : 

The  mission  of  the  Basel  Evangelical  Missionary  Society  of 
the  Gold  Coast  was  commenced  in  the  year  1828.  At  that  time 
the  eastern  part  of  the  Gold  Coast  belonged  to  the  Danish 
Crown,  and  as  the  King  of  Denmark  then  on  the  throne  was 
much  interested  in  Christian  missions  to  the  heathen,  it  was 
expected  that  the  Danish  government  vrould  favor  and  protect 
the  interests  of  a mission  established  in  their  African  Posses- 
sions. In  1828  the  King  of  Denmark,  having  granted  permis- 
sion to  commence  a mission  on  the  Gold  Coast,  the  first  mis- 


No  Special  Inducements  Offered. 


137 


sionaries  were  set  apart  and  started  for  their  future  labors, 
traveling  by  way  of  Copenhagen  (the  Danish  capital)  and  En- 
gland, and  arrived  at  Christiansborg,  the  principal  port  belong- 
ing to  the  Danes  on  the  African  Coast,  on  December  18,  1828. 
The  Danish  governor  received  them  very  cordially,  and  the  re- 
ception accorded  them  by  the  chiefs  and  people  was  of  a friend- 
ly character.  The  small  party  was  soon  attacked  by  sickness, 
which  to  three  of  the  four  proved  fatal  within  eight  months  of 
their  landing.  For  two  and  a half  years  the  fourth  continued 
to  labor  on,  acting  as  chaplain  to  the  Europeans  and  preaching 
to  the  heathen,  besides  conducting  daily  a school  of  ninety  chil- 
dren, and  meanwhile  looking  anxiously  for  the  arrival  of  help 
from  Europe. 

In  March,  1832,  three  new  missionaries  arrived,  who  had 
looked  forward  to  benefit  by  his  experience,  but  found  he  had 
been  dead  several  months.  Great  as  this  trial  was  to  the  com- 
mittee and  friends  of  the  mission,  it  was  soon  followed  by  oth- 
ers not  less  heavy.  The  three  new  missionaries  had  been  in  the 
country  only  six  weeks  -when  one  of  them  died,  and  six  weeks 
later  another  was  taken.  The  sole  survivor  (Mr.  Riis)  now  had 
his  attention  turned  to  the  elevated  land  in  the  interior,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion — a conclusion  confirmed  by  a visit  he 
made  to  the  region — that  it  would  prove  more  congenial  to  the 
European  constitu  ion  than  the  lowland-  near  the  coast.  In 
1835  he  began  mission  work  at  Akropong,  the  princial  town  in 
the  Akuapem  Mountains.  Here  he  labored  for  upwards  of  four 
years,  seeing  but  little  fruit  of  his  labors  beyond  a growing  con- 
fidence in  him,  and  an  increasing  friendliness  on  the  part  of  the 
natives.  In  1836  two  new  missionaries  arrived  to  take  part  in 
the  work,  but  within  two  years  both  died.  At  the  same  time 
there  were  political  quarrels  among  the  natives,  and  misunder- 
standings between  the  natives  and  the  Danish  Government  on 
the  Coast,  which  hindered  the  work  much.  Change  of  climate 
had  become  necessary  to  Mr.  Riis,  on  account  of  his  health. 
His  presence  at  headquarters  was  also  necessary,  to  enable  the 
committee  at  home  to  judge  as  to  what  their  future  action  should 
be.  He  paid  a visit  to  Coomassie,  the  capital  of  Ashantee,  and 
then  returned  to  Germany. 

For  a time  it  was  an  open  question  whether  the  mission 


138 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


should  not  be  given  up,  but  eventually  it  was  decided  to  carry 
it  on.  Mr.  Riis,  together  with  Mr.  Widmann,  went  to  the  West 
Indies,  with  the  view  of  getting  some  liberated  and  Christian- 
ized Africans  to  go  with  them  to  settle  on  the  Gold  Coast.  Early 
in  1843  they  sailed  in  a chartered  vessel  from  Jamaica,  with 
twenty-four  Christian  Africans  on  board,  direct  for  Christians- 
borg,  where  they  landed  on  the  17th  of  April,  and  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  Akropong. 

The  immigrants  were  for  a time  very  useful  to  the  mission, 
but  they  did  not  realize  the  expectations  which  had  been  formed 
of  them.  Some  were  the  cause  of  much  trouble,  and  some  re- 
turned to  the  West  Indies.  Few  proved  faithful.  The  mission 
had,  nevertheless,  obtained  a secure  footing  in  the  country. 
Substantial  houses  were  built,  the  language  was  learned,  and 
the  missionaries  soon  became  able  to  preach  in  it. 

In  1847  the  first  two  baptisms  took  place.  In  1846  the  mis- 
sion part  was  reinforced  by  the  arrival  of  new  missionaries  from 
Europe,  and  Christiansborg  was  reoccupied,  as  it  was  desirable 
to  have  a station  on  the  coast.  New  missionaries  joined  the 
mission  in  1847,  and  again  in  1850.  Five  of  the  brethren  de- 
voted themselves  to  reducing  the  languages  of  the  Gold  Coast  to 
writing,  and  to  the  translation  into  them  of  the  Holy  Scriptures, 
a work  which  involved  many  years  of  hard  and  patient  labor, 
but  which  was  successfully  completed.  Besides  this,  hymn 
books,  school  books,  grammars,  and  vocabularies  were  prepared 
and  printed  in  the  languages.  Two  seminaries  for  the  teaching 
and  training  of  young  men  were  opened.  In  1850  there  were 
at  work  six  European  missionaries,  three  European  ladies,  and 
five  native  assistants ; in  the  schools  were  198  children,  and  the 
church  members  numbered  46.  In  1853  the  native  assistants 
had  increased  to  16,  and  the  baptized  natives  to  162.  Thus  the 
mission  was  prospering,  when  in  1854  disturbances  of  apolitical 
character  seriously  interfered  with  it.  The  natives  at  Christians- 
borg revolted  against  British  authority,  and  a man-of-war  bom- 
barded the  town.  The  mission  premises  were  much  dam- 
aged. Most  of  the  natives  fled  into  the  interior,  to  a place 
named  Abokobi,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Akuapem  Mountains, 
and  about  twenty  miles  from  the  coast.  There  they  were  fol- 
lowed by  two  missionaries.  As  the  place  was  about  the  center 


■ 


. _ r_ 


ERHARDT  LUDWIG  LUTTERODT,  PROF  O.  MOORE, 

Photographer,  Accra.  Principal  of  Boys’  Grammar  School,  Freetown. 


No  Special  Inducements  Offered. 


141 


of  a number  of  villages,  it  was  made  a principal  station,  whence 
other  places  around  were  \ isited  or  occupied.  In  January,  1881, 
the  Christians  connected  with  this  and  the  out-stations  around 
it  numbered  660,  of  whom  345  were  communicants,  and  315 
children. 

An  important  step  connected  with  the  well-being  of  the 
mission  was  taken  in  1857,  when  the  Industrial  Department  was 
added  to  it.  This  consisted  of  a carpenter’s,  a wheelright's,  and 
a blacksmith’s  shop,  each  under  the  management  of  a Europe- 
an. The  anticipated  good  results  of  the  step  have  been  fully 
realized,  and  both  natives  and  Europeans  acknowledge  the 
great  good  to  the  country  which  has  been  done  by  this  depart- 
ment. Previously  to  the  opening  of  the  industrial  part  of  the 
mission,  a model  coffee  plantation  had  been  started  at  Akro- 
pong  to  bring  the  natives  to  the  cultivation  of  that  useful  tree. 

In  the  British  Colonies  of  West  Africa  there  are 
native  printers,  brickmakers,  photographers,  car- 
penters, bricklayers,  painters,  bookbinders,  drug- 
gists, watchmakers,  ta§§ors,  auctioneers,  coopers, 
and  goldsmiths;  and  in  all  these  trades  the  supply 
is  greater  than  the  demand.  In  a previous  chapter  I 
referred  somewhat  at  length  to  the  professional  men, 
and  the  clerks.  In  a conversation  with  the  present 
Governor  of  the  Sierra  Leone  Colony,  touching  the 
probability  of  intelligent  and  industrious  American 
youth  of  African  descent  finding  suitable  employ- 
ment within  the  British  Possessions,  he  very  posi- 
tively informed  me  that  the  only  class  likely  to  be 
welcomed  was  skilled  agriculturists,  but  that  they 
did  not  need  any  clerks  or  the  service  of  persons 
who  are  merely  qualified  for  mental  employment. 

Contrary  to  general  belief,  there  are  no  great  and 
imposing  cities  on  the  "West  and  Southwest  Coast 
of  Africa,  and  consequently  there  are  no  large  cen- 


142 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

ters  of  civilization,  and  the  ratio  of  the  civilized  to 
the  uncivilized  peoples  is  exceedingly  small.  Civil- 
ization on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  is  fully 
supplied  with  persons  competent  to  perform  men- 
tal labor.  In  fact,  this  class  has  grown  so  numer- 
ous that  the  school  authorities  are  discussing  the 
propriety  of  limiting  the  facilities  for  mere  mental 
training,  and  establishing  technical  and  agricultural 
schools.  There  is  almost  no  limit  to  the  demand 
for  skilled  agriculturists.  Truck  farming,  conduct- 
ed systematically,  at  Freetown,  Monrovia,  Accra, 
Lagos,  and  a number  of  other  places  on  the  West 
and  Southwest  Coast,  could  be  made  highly  profit- 
able. 

Poultry  and  stock  raising  could  also  be  made 
largely  remunerative.  The  fields  and  forests  of 
Africa  offer  unbounded  sources  of  wealth  as  the  re- 
ward for  the  labor  of  the  skilled  and  industrious 
agriculturist.  The  physician  can  find  plenty  of  la- 
bor in  Africa,  provided  he  is  willing  to  engage  in 
charity  practice. 

There  are  few,  if  any,  American  firms  now  doing 
business  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Afri- 
ca, which  increases  the  difficulty  of  an  American 
youth  of  Africaii  descent  finding  engagement  in 
mercantile  pursuits,  such  as  bookkeepers,  clerks, 
etc.  An  individual  with  the  willingness  and  abil- 
ity to  work,  and  sufficient  capital  to  invest  in  a cof- 
fee farm,  a palm  tree  orchard,  or  a rubber  nursery, 
might  be  able  to  reap  fair  returns  for  his  investment 
and  labor.  However,  let  it  be  distinctly  understood 


No  Special  Inducements  Offered 


143 


that  no  part  of  Africa  furnishes  a royal  pathway  to 
easy,  luxurious  living  and  wealth ; and  there  is  no 
place  in  the  world  where  paupers  are  likely  to  ex- 
perience more  difficulties  and  hardships  than  there. 

The  contents  of  the  following  clipping  from  the 
Atlanta  (G-a.)  Constitution,  of  a recent  date,  is  as 
true  of  Africa  as  it  is  of  Alabama  ; and  the  former 
holds  out  no  more  nor  greater  inducements  to  pen- 
niless emigrants  than  does  the  latter  : 

One  hundred  heads  of  families  in  Chicago  have  asked  the 
county  authorities  to  pay  for  the  transportation  of  themselves 
and  families  (some  five  hundred  persons)  to  Alabama,  where 
they  say  they  are  preparing  to  establish  a colony.  The  colony 
was  organized  by  the  unemployed  workingmen  around  Chicago, 
and  the  idea  is  to  start  a co-operative  society.  They  have  a suit- 
able tract  in  view  of  four  thousand  acres,  and  hope  to  make  their 
experiment  a success.  We  sympathize  with  these  unemployed 
people,  but  if  they  are  too  poor  to  pay  for  their  transportation 
they  are  not  the  right  sort  of  immigrants,  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
they  would  find  it  very  hard  to  get  along  in  Alabama.  The 
people  who  come  South  in  search  of  homes  need  not  be  rich, 
but  they  should  not  be  paupers. 

It  seems  to  me  the  height  of  folly  for  persons  to 
leave  their  native  land  and  go  to  any  country  with 
the  hope  of  bettering  their  condition,  unless  they 
have  a reasonable  assurance  before  leaving  that 
their  condition  can  thereby  he  improved.  My  ad- 
vice to  young  Americans  of  African  descent  is  to 
prepare  themselves  for  a manful  struggle  for  exist- 
ence and  well-being  in  the  land  of  their  birth. 


1 OlMRSQiy  g,  ^ yy 

PHONE  WEST  1716  1 


PART  SECOND. 


PERSONAL  MEMORANDA. 


FOR  twenty  years  the  desire  to  visit  Africa  had 
seized  the  writer — a desire  created  by  the  read- 
ing of  a book  called  “ The  Negro  Problem  Solved.” 
This  hook  fell  into  my  hands  in  1874,  when  I was 
a member  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of  the 
State  of  Alabama.  My  attention  was  called  to  it 
by  my  friend  and  fellow- member,  the  Hon.  Her- 
schel  V.  Cashin,  now  a prosperous  business  man  at 
Decatur,  Ala.  In  general  conversation  he  had  fre- 
quently heard  me  refer  to  Africa  in  terms  which 
led  him  to  suspect  that  I had  faith  in  its  ultimate 
redemption  and  development.  I read  the  book  re- 
ferred to  with  keen  interest,  and  then  returned  it 
to  its  owner,  and  never  saw  it  again,  or  a copy  of 
it — though  for  years  I had  made  a diligent  search 
for  the  latter — until  1893.  In  the  early  spring  of 
that  year  I went  to  Wilberforce,  Ohio,  to  deliver  two 
lectures  on  Africa.  While  there  I was  the  guest  of 
Bishop  Arnett,  who  remarked  to  me,  just  previous 
to  leaving  his  house  to  deliver  my  second  lecture, 
that  if  I would  mention  the  word  “Africa  ” on  my  re- 
turn he  would  hand  me  a book  in  which  he  thought 
I would  be  interested.  The  suggestion  was  most 
eagerly  grasped  by  me,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  acted 
on,  to  my  great  joy  and  surprise  I was  handed  a 
copy  of  “ The  Negro  Problem  Solved.”  Its  sight 


148 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


thrilled  me  with  delight,  as  though  I had  suddenly 
met  with  a beloved  friend  from  whom  I had  been 
separated  for  many  years. 

In  the  meantime  I purchased  and  read  all  of 
Stanley  ’s  works  regarding  Africa,  Wilson's  “ AVest- 
ern  Africa,”  and  a number  of  other  volumes  treat- 
ing of  the  “ Dark  Continent.”  Through  some 
uncontrollable  agency  I found  myself  gradually 
preparing  to  gratify  a long-cherished  desire  to 
make  a personal  visit  to  the  land  of  my  forefathers. 
On  my  return  to  Nashville  from  AVilberforce,  Ohio, 
where  1 had  been  at  the  time  previously  indicated, 
I had  occasion  to  stop  in  Cincinnati  for  a few  hours, 
and  while  there  was  led  to  purchase  Saussure’s  hy- 
grometer with  a thermometer  attached,  an  aneroid 
barometer  with  a compass  connected,  a grand 
power  field  glass,  and  a pedometer. 

I had  the  several  maps  connected  with  Mr.  Stan- 
ley’s works  detached  and  mounted,  and  hung  on 
the  walls  of  my  private  office  in  our  Sunday  School 
Union  building.  I also  purchased  a large  wall  map 
of  Africa,  of  recent  issue,  from  Rand,  McNally  & 
Co.,  Chicago,  111.,  with  the  aid  of  which,  and  in 
connection  with  Air.  Stanley’s  maps,  I set  myself  to 
the  study  of  the  geography  of  Africa.  1 found 
Wilson’s  “ AVestern  Africa”  of  inestimable  value  in 
furnishing  me  interesting  data  concerning  the  to- 
pography of  the  AVest  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Af- 
rica, the  names  and  customs  of  the  principal  tribes 
from  the  Senegal  on  the  north  to  St.  Paul  de 
Loando  on  the  south. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


149 


The  day  of  departure  lias  come.  It  is  the  17th 
of  August,  1894.  All  preparation  for  the  journey 
has  been  quietly  conducted.  It  is  a busy  day  and 
full  of  anxious  care.  I am  to  attempt  to  travel 
eighteen  thousand  miles  by  sea  single-handed  and 
alone.  I am  to  endeavor  to  traverse  the  West  and 
Southwest  Coast  of  Africa  for  more  than  six  thou- 
sand miles — to  pass  through  the  meridian  line,  and 
under  the  equatorial  line,  to  a point  about  live  hun- 
dred miles  south  thereof.  I am  to  be  borne  upon 
the  mighty  Congo  from  Banana  Point  to  Matadi, 
the  southwest  terminus  of  the  Congo  railroad.  I 
shall  not  even  come  within  the  range  of  the  shad- 
ow of  an  acquaintance.  Strange  land,  strange  peo- 
ple, strange  scenes ! At  7.35  p.  M.  1 start  to  the 
depot,  accompanied  by  a party  of  select  friends. 
The  train  is  on  time,  and  at  7.50  p.  m.  I give  my 
wife  a farewell  embrace,  and  wave  a parting  adieu 
to  my  steadfast  friends. 

Sunday  morning,  August  19,  about  7.30,  the 
train  rolls  into  the  Pennsylvania  depot  at  Jersey 
City,  where  I take  a ferry  boat  for  Hew  York,  in 
the  meantime  having  arranged  for  my  luggage  to 
be  delivered  at  the  dock  of  the  White  Star  Liue. 
Among  the  things  which  were  packed  at  Hashville 
were  tifty-five  books,  the  works  of  American  au- 
thors of  African  descent,  and  a large  wall  map  of 
Africa,  from  Rand,  McHally  & Co.,  of  Chicago,  111. 
— all  to  be  presented  to  the  Hational  Library  of  the 
Republic  of  Liberia.  A few  purchases  are  made  in 
Hew  York,  among  them  a medicine  chest,  tilled  with 


150 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


carefully  selected  remedies  to  combat  diseases  com- 
mon in  the  tropics. 

Early  rising  Wednesday  morning,  August  22,  is 
the  order  for  those  who  are  to  embark  at  9.80  on 
the  gigantic  steamship  “ Teutonic.”  It  is  a delight- 
ful morning,  and  the  weather  is  propitious.  At 
9.20  I telegraph  the  last  farewell  to  my  fond  wife, 
and  then  turn  my  steps  toward  the  ship,  which  I 
soon  board,  and  make  my  way  to  the  second  cabin 
passengers’  promenade  deck.  Promptly  at  the  ap- 
pointed time  the  ponderous  engines  begin  to  pul- 
sate, and  the  ship  responds  with  a quiet  movement. 
There  are  110  iirst-class  passengers,  170  second-class, 
and  about  800  steerage.  I have  chosen  to  travel 
second-class  for  more  than  one  reason,  and  should 
I cross  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean  a thousand  times 
I would  never  travel  first-class  unless  I represented 
great  wealth  or  had  a passport  to  the  society  of  the 
“ 400.”  Should  any  of  my  friends  at  any  time  have 
occasion  to  cross  the  “big  pond,”  either  on  business 
or  for  pleasure,  I advise  them  to  secure  second-class 
accommodations  on  the  express  ships  of  either  the 
White  Star  or  Cunard  lines.  The  fare  is  one-half 
less  than  the  first-class,  while  the  association  is  a 
thousand  per  cent,  more  flexible,  companionable, 
and  hence  more  agreeable. 

As  the  ship  moves  from  its  dock  out  into  the 
river  a great  throng  of  people  gather  at  the  end  of 
the  pier  and  wave  to  loved  ones  and  friends  on 
board  the  last  farewell. 

The  voyage  from  New  York  to  Liverpool  is  a 


Pe  rs  o n a l Me  m or  an  d a . 


151 


most  pleasant  and  agreeable  one.  For  the  first  live 
days  the  weather  is  ideal;  not  a cloud  obscures  the 
bright  rays  of  the  sun.  The  last  two  days  are 
somewhat  cloudy.  During  the  entire  voyage  not  a 
squall  is  experienced.  Many  steamships  and  sailing- 
vessels  are  sighted.  We  pass  several  fishing  smacks 
off  the  Newfoundland  Banks.  Their  presence  ex- 
cites considerable  interest,  as  they  are  small  crafts, 
and  the  passengers  think  the  occupants  have  great 
courage  and  daring  to  trust  themselves  to  such 
seemingly  frail  protection  on  the  great  deep,  so  far 
from  the  shore.  Several  schools  of  porpoise  are 
seen,  and  an  occasional  whale. 

On  Saturday  I am  requested  by  the  chief  steward 
to  conduct  divine  service  on  Sunday  morning.  I 
accept  the  invitation,  though  I inform  him  that  the 
English  church  service  is  entirely  new  to  me. 

Sunday  morning  at  10.30  nearly  all  the  passen- 
gers, except  the  Catholics,  assemble  in  the  cabin, 
and  I do  the  best  I can  in  conducting  divine  serv- 
ice after  tbe  order  of  the  established  Church  of  En- 
gland. There  is  no  sermon.  The  congregation 
joins  quite  heartily  in  the  singing  and  the  responses. 
The  service  is  seemingly  enjoyed,  and  I am  more 
than  once  congratulated  on  my  success.  One  end 
of  a table,  on  which  rests  a cushion  covered  with 
the  English  flag,  serves  as  the  pulpit,  or  lecturn. 
When  I reflect  that  the  flag  before  me  symbolizes 
tbe  power  of  an  empire  which  sways  its  authority 
over  more  than  three  hundred  millions  of  subjects, 
I confess  to  experiencing  a slight  feeling  of  pride. 


152 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Two  Irishmen  and. an  Irish  youth  are  my  state- 
room companions,  and  they  treat  me  with  uniform 
courtesy  and  respect.  As  a compliment  to  me,  one 
of  them  attended  the  service  which  I conducted 
Sunday  morning. 

There  is  a distinguished  Anglo-Chinaman  among 
the  first  cabin  passengers,  but  I do  not  notice  any 
of  the  other  passengers  associating  with  him. 

At  12  m.,  Tuesday,  the  28th,  we  are  35  miles  from 
Queenstown,  and  275  miles  from  Liverpool.  The 
average  speed  of  the  ship  is  nineteen  miles  per  hour. 
A large  number  of  steerage  and  a few  first  and  sec- 
ond cabin  passengers  disembark  at  Queenstown. 

On  the  morning  of  Wednesday  (29),  at  3 o’clock, 
we  drop  anchor  in  the  Mersey  River  at  Liverpool, 
having  made  the  voyage  in  six  days,  seventeen 
hours,  and  thirty  minutes.  The  following  is  the 


“Log”  : 

DATE. 

LATITUDE. 

LONGITUDE. 

RUN. 

August  23. 

41.30  N. 

67.37  W. 

475  miles. 

August  24. 

44  N. 

53.51  W. 

456  miles. 

August  25. 

46.81  N. 

43  59  W. 

459  miles. 

August  26. 

42.37  N. 

32.37  W. 

459  miles. 

August  27. 

50.55  N. 

21.14  W. 

459  miles. 

August  28. 

51.28  N. 

9.05  W. 

465  miles. 

Thegray  dawn  of  the  newmorn  finds  all  astir, pre- 
paratory to  taking  a tender  for  the  Princess  Land- 
ing Stage  at  Liverpool.  The  first  and  second  cabin 
passengers  disembark  at  the  same  time,  and  with 
their  luggage  are  taken  to  the  custom  house.  After 
passing  customs  there  is  a general  separation,  and 
faces  which  had  grown  familiar  to  each  other  by 


Personal  Memoranda. 


153 


seven  days’  association  vanish  in  the  distance, 
never  to  meet  again  until  the  “ sea  shall  give  up 
its  dead.” 

Taking  a cab,  I am  speedily  driven  to  Lawrence’s 
Temperance  Hotel,  Clayton  Square,  where  I had 
stopped  on  my  first  visit  to  Liverpool.  So  soon  as 
I am  settled  in  my  room  I hasten  to  the  otiice  of 
the  British  and  African  Steam  Navigation  Compa- 
ny, Limited,  and  engage  passage  for  a cruise  of  the 
West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa,  on  the  steam- 
ship Benguela,”  which  is  advertised  to  leave 
Wednesday,  September  5,  at  10  a.  m.  I purchase  a 
first-class  ticket  to  St.  Paul  de  Loando  and  return, 
with  the  privilege  of  stopping  at  Monrovia,  Libe- 
ria, and  Freetown,  Sierra  Leone,  on  the  homeward 
voyage.  I then  attend  to  giving  orders  for  some 
tropical  clothing. 

Thursday,  August  30,  at  1 p.  m.,  I am  at  the  Mid- 
land Railway  Station,  en  route  to  Antwerp  and  Brus- 
sels, hearing  letters  of  introduction  to  the  Director 
General  of  the  Congo  Railway  at  the  latter  place. 
I am  anxious  to  learn  if  there  is  a favorable  open- 
ing in  the  Congo  for  colored  Americans.  When  I 
visited  the  Universal  Exposition  at  Antwerp  last 
spring  the  Congo  exhibit  was  not  complete,  and  the 
natives  from  that  section  were  not  to  be  seen.  My 
great  desire  to  see  the  Congo  exhibit  and  the  na- 
tives is  the  inducing  cause  which  leads  me  to  visit 
Antwerp  a second  time.  My  route  is  from  Liver- 
pool to  Harwich  by  rail,  and  thence  to  Antwerp  by 
steamer.  The  latter  place  is  reached  Friday  morn- 


154 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

ing  about  10  o’clock.  There  is  a large  number  of 
passengers  on  board.  I register  at  the  Hotel  Reu- 
ben, and  take  the  first  train  for  Brussels,  which 
place  is  reached  within  an  hour  by  rail.  Upon  in- 
quiry at  the  office  of  the  Director  General  of  the 
Congo  Railroad,  I am  informed  that  his  company 
is  not  in  need  of  any  help  additional  to  what  it  has. 
I have  heard  many  conflicting  reports  concerning 
the  management  of  this  railroad,  but  shall  make 
full  inquiry  before  expressing  an  opinion.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  the  great  colored  historian, 
Hon.  George  W.  Williams,  visited  the  Congo  sev- 
eral years  ago;  but  his  report  was  never  published, 
he  having  died  in  England,  en  route  to  America.  I 
leave  Brussels  about  6 p.  m.,  and  reach  Antwerp  an 
hour  later.  Brussels  is  a beautiful  city,  and  is  well 
named  the  second  Paris.  It  has  an  electric  street 
railroad,  with  first  and  second-class  cars.  While 
here  I catch  sight  of  an  imposing,  stately  looking 
black  man — young,  handsome,  and  dressed  in  the 
height  of  fashion.  He  is  in  company  with  two 
Belgian  nabobs,  and  can  talk  French  as  fluently  as 
a Parisian.  I certainly  covet  the  pleasure  of  his 
acquaintance.  He  is  the  cynosure  of  all  eyes  as  he 
strides  with  royal  step  through  the  grand  boule- 
vards. When  I visited  Brussels  last  spring  I did 
not  see  a single  black  face,  though  I was  here  quite 
three  days. 

Saturday  morning  I visit  the  Exposition,  but 
liave  to  wait  until  2 p.  m.  before  I can  seethe  Con- 
golese, as  they  only  spend  two  hours  each  day — • 


Personal  Memoranda. 


155 


from  2 to  4 — on  the  grounds.  I till  out  the  time 
in  the  interval  by  a visit  to  the  South  African  ex- 
hibit and  the  Congo  Palace.  These  two  depart- 
ments constitute  the  best  part  of  the  Exposition. 
Have  an  interesting  talk  with  two  of  the  Commis- 
sioners of  the  former.  The  Congo  Palace  is  well 
filled  with  specimens  of  the  natural  products  of  the 
country  and  the  skill  of  the  natives.  There  is  a 
printing  press  and  some  type  in  one  corner,  where 
visiting  cards  are  printed  by  native  boys.  The 
boys  who  do  the  printing  were  educated  at  an  En- 
glish mission  on  the  lower  Congo.  One  of  the 
number,  Bulanti  by  name,  is  cpfite  intelligent.  Two 
Congolese  soldiers  do  guard  duty  at  the  main  en- 
trances of  the  palace.  Two  Congolese  girls,  about 
twelve  years  of  age,  dressed  in  sailor  suits  and  caps, 
are  objects  of  much  attention.  At  2 p.  m.  bugle 
sounds  are  heard — the  signal  for  the  entrance  of 
the  Congolese  soldiers  and  people,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  in  all.  The  soldiers  are  well 
drilled,  and  seem  to  greatly  appreciate  their  posi- 
tion. They  are  in  charge  of  a white  officer.  These 
people  are  greatly  disfigured  by  their  tribal  marks. 
The  Belgian  visitors  to  the  Exposition  treat  them 
with  great  respect  and  fondness.  An  enthusiastic 
Belgian  importunes  one  of  the  females  for  a kiss — 
a curiosity  which  she  gratifies,  much  to  the  merri- 
ment of  hundreds  of  spectators.  Suppose  this  had 
taken  place  in  America.  What  disgust!  What 
censure  would  have  been  expressed!  I obtain 
eighteen  photographs  of  these  people.  I leave  Ant- 


156 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


werp  Saturday  night  for  Liverpool,  by  the  same 
route  I came.  The  steamer  is  crowded  with  pas- 
sengers. We  reach  Harwich  at  6.45  Sunday  morn- 
ing, after  a smooth  and  pleasant  passage  of  twelve 
hours.  One  of  the  ship’s  officers  informs  me 
that  the  passage  is  an  extraordinarily  smooth  one. 
Through  the  neglect  or  carelessness  of  officials  at 
the  railway  station,  I miss  the  through  train  for 
Liverpool,  and  will  not  get  to  the  end  of  my  jour- 
ney until  3 a.  m.  Monday.  I have  to  make  four 
changes  and  as  many  lay-overs,  which  would  not 
have  been  the  case  had  it  been  a week  day  instead 
of  Sunday.  Having  about  an  hour’s  wait  at  Peter- 
horo,  I visit  its  ancient  and  famous  cathedral,  and 
reach  it  just  in  time  to  hear  the  congregation  sing 
the  last  four  lines  of  “Jesus,  Lover  of  My  Soul.” 
One  of  the  attaches  informs  me  that  it  was  begun 
in  1628,  is  capable  of  seating  twelve  hundred  per- 
sons, has  a choir  of  over  one  hundred  members,  and 
is  rich  in  historic  associations.  As  it  is  dusk  when 
I visit  it,  I can  form  no  definite  idea  of  its  archi- 
tectural style,  or  the  general  appearance  of  its  ex- 
terior. It  has  a most  magnificent  organ.  By  chance 
I meet  a lady  who  was  a passenger  on  the  steam- 
ship “ Germanic”  when  I crossed  from  New  York 
to  Liverpool  last  spring. 

Monday  and  Tuesday,  September  3,  4,  are  spent 
in  completing  arrangements  for  my  African  trip. 
My  tropical  outfit  consists  of  three  suits  of  white 
flannel,  six  white  flannel  top  shirts,  six  suits  of 
light  flannel  underwear,  a pith  helmet,  a Panama 


Personal  Memoranda. 


157 


straw  bat,  a white  umbrella,  white  canvas  shoes,  a 
light  rubber  rain  coat,  rubber  overshoes  and  leg 
protectors,  and  a red  silk  cummer-band.  To  my 
scientific  instruments  I add  a self-registering  ther- 
mometer and  a magnifying  glass.  Justly  appre- 
ciating the  great  interest  shown  by  the  Ladies’  Mite 
Missionary  Society  of  the  A.  M.  E.  Church  in  our 
mission  work  in  Africa,  I decide  to  spread  a grand 
feast  in  their  name,  in  Africa,  for  our  missionaries. 
To  this  end  I make  a liberal  purchase  of  canned 
goods,  such  as  oxtail  soup,  chicken  broth,  pickles, 
jam,  apricots,  pears,  peaches,  cakes,  biscuits,  etc.; 
tea,  sugar,  chocolate,  butter,  and  sherbet. 

Tuesday  I have  the  pleasure  of  taking  luncheon 
with  an  African  merchant  by  the  name  of  M.  Al- 
bert D.  Essien,  9 St.  James  Road.  He  is  perma- 
nently established  in  Liverpool. 

Wednesday  morning,  about  11  a.  m.,  the  steam- 
ship “Benguela”  weighs  anchor  at  Liverpool, 
steams  down  the  Mersey  River  to  St.  George’s  Chan- 
nel, and  out  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  with  the  com- 
pass indicating  a southwesterly  course.  There  are 
just  twelve  passengers  aboard,  all  bound  for  South- 
west Africa. 

The  die  is  cast,  and  “sink  or  swim,  survive  or 
perish,”  I am  at  last  en  voyage  to  Africa.  My  new- 
ly formed  friend,  the  African  merchant,  made  his 
appearance  on  the  tender,  and  boarded  the  ship 
just  before  it  started  to  bid  me  farewell.  I need 
not  say  that  I fully  appreciated  this  unusual  exhibi- 
tion of  kindness  by  a stranger. 


158 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


I have  previously  stated  that  the  passenger  list 
of  the  steamship  “ Benguela  ” numbers  twelve,  the 
apostolic  number.  Among  them  is  a young  Meth- 
odist clergyman  and  his  wife,  en  route  to  Fernando 
Po,  as  teachers  in  connection  with  a Primitive 
Methodist  mission.  The  first  Sunday  out  I conduct 
divine  service  according  to  the  ritual  of  the  English 
Church.  The  second  Sunday  out  the  Rev.  M. 
Showed  conducts  service  after  the  custom  of  the 
Primitive  Methodist  Church. 

September  12,  between  7 and  8 o’clock  a.  m.,  we 
pass  in  full  view  of  the  harbor  and  town  of  Las 
Palmas,  Grand  Canary. 

September  18,  about  7.20  p.  m.,  we  sight  the  light 
off  Cape  Verde,  quite  twenty-seven  miles  distant. 
This  lighthouse  is  the  first  illuminated  mariner’s 
guide  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  and  is  the 
best. 

September  18,  about  6 A.  m.,  our  ship  reaches  Si- 
erra Leone,  with  all  well  on  board.  I am  agreeably 
disappointed  as  to  the  size,  character,  and  appear- 
ance of  the  buildings.  There  is  no  dock  or  land- 
ing place  for  ships.  There  is  deep  water,  however, 
and  the  ship  anchors  about  three-fourths  of  a mile 
from  shore.  After  undergoing  inspection  by  the 
custom  house  officers  (all  black),  I am  escorted  to 
Rev.  Frederick’s  house,  which  I find  large  and  airy, 
and  quite  comfortably  furnished.  About  10  o’clock 
we  have  breakfast.  This  is  my  first  meal  in  Africa, 
and  it  consists  of  fish,  beefsteak,  Irish  potatoes  im- 
ported from  Grand  Canary,  rice,  raw  tomatoes,  tea, 


Personal  Memoranda. 


159 


butter,  and  the  best  bread  I have  eaten  outside  of 
France.  After  breakfast  I visit  the  African  Meth- 
odist Episcopal  Church  school,  which  numbers 
311  pupils,  with  four  teachers — three  males  and  one 
female — all  natives.  The  sight  is  intensely  inter- 
esting. I make  a brief  talk  to  them,  and  am  fol- 
lowed by  a young  white  Methodist  preacher,  who 
propounds  a number  of  questions  in  geography, 
arithmetic,  and  spelling  ; and  every  question,  with- 
out a single  exception,  is  promptly  and  correctly 
answered.  The  pupils  are  all  decently  and  cleanly 
clad.  All  the  native  business  men  of  Sierra  Leone 
are  as  well  dressed  as  the  same  class  in  London  and 
ISTew  York. 

I read  in  the  current  issue  of  the  Sierra  Leone 
News  that  last  July  a national  museum  and  library 
was  opened  at  Monrovia.  As  I shall  stop  at  Mon- 
rovia on  my  return  voyage,  I shall  give  an  account 
of  this  museum,  with  other  interesting  features  of 
the  town.  It  is  generally  conceded  that  Liberia  is 
the  best  part  of  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa.  We 
ship  fifteen  head  of  cattle  at  Sierra  Leone  for  Fer- 
nando Po,  which  fact  disproves  all  reports  that  cat- 
tle will  not  thrive  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa. 
They  are  small,  it  is  true,  but  seem  to  be  thrifty 
and  healthy. 

About  1 p.  M.  we  weigh  anchor  and  resume  our 
voyage.  About  3 p.  m.,  of  the  19th,  we  are  in  full 
view  of  Monrovia,  which  place  is  situated  on  a high 
ridge.  We  steer  quite  a distance  from  the  shore, 
and  therefore  do  not  get  a distinct  viewT  of  the  place 


160 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


and  its  surroundings.  I am,  however,  favorably 
impressed  with  its  location. 

On  the  20th  we  stop  at  two  points  on  the  Libe- 
rian Coast,  Sass  Town  and  Grand  Sess,  the  home 
of  the  far-famed  Kroomen. 

We  reach  Accra  on  the  evening  of  the  22d.  Ac- 
cra is  the  chief  town  on  the  Gold  Coast,  and  is  a 
great  center  of  mechanical  industry.  From  it  go 
out  every  year  hundreds  of  carpenters,  coopers, 
boat  builders,  etc. — all  natives.  They  are  trained 
at  the  Basel  Mission,  which  was  established  in  1828 
by  missionaries  from  Switzerland. 

On  the  24th,  at  10  a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Lagos. 
This  is  a growing  and  thriving  place,  although  it 
is  the  youngest  of  the  British  Colonies  on  the  West 
Coast.  There  are  at  Lagos  English,  German, 
French,  Portuguese,  Brazilian,  and  Spanish  traders. 
There  are  eighteen  principal  native  traders  and 
many  minor  ones,  live  bookbinders,  four  druggists, 
three  watchmakers,  live  tailors,  live  auctioneers, 
three  bookmakers,  three  photographers,  and  four 
goldsmiths — all  natives.  There  are  four  publica- 
tions printed,  two  weekly  and  two  monthly;  there 
is  also  a commercial  printing  press.  The  weekly 
papers  are  the  Spectator  and  the  Lagos  Weekly  Rec- 
ord. The  principal  buildings  are  of  brick  and  stone 
of  modern  architecture.  The  census  of  1891  esti- 
mated the  population  of  the  town  and  harbor  of 
Lagos  to  he  about  30,000.  The  population  of  the 
town  and  Colony,  including  the  Protectorate,  has 
been  estimated  at  85,607,  of  whom  only  150  are 


EXTERIOR  OF._CHRIST’S£CHURCH,  LAGOS. 


INTERIOR  OF  CHRIST’S  CHURCH,  LAGOS. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


163 


white.  The  occupations  of  the  native  population 
may  be  classed  as  traders,  farmers,  gardeners,  fish- 
ermen, and  palm  oil  manufacturers.  A yearly  Al- 
manac and  Diary  is  published  here,  edited  by  a 
native.  The  issue  for  1894  contains  147  large  oc- 
tavo pages,  and  is  full  of  valuable  information. 
Here,  as  at  Sierra  Leone  and  Accra,  many  of  the 
natives  hold  important  offices.  There  are  four 
large  German  steamers  anchored  at  this  point. 
Germany  is  pushing  her  trade  in  Africa,  though 
she  only  commenced  her  commercial  career  on  the 
coast  ten  years  ago.  Lagos  is  4,300  miles  from 
Liverpool. 

The  highest  point  reached  by  the  thermometer 
from  the  beginning  of  our  voyage  to  September  24 
was  on  the  16th  of  September,  when  it  stood  83°  in 
the  shade,  which  is  13°  lower  than  it  was  the  week 
I left  Nashville.  It  is  the  peculiar,  damp  atmosphere 
of  the  tropics,  and  not  the  heat,  that  is  so  unfriend- 
ly to  Europeans.  AVhen  one  has  learned  to  maintain 
the  normal  temperature  of  the  body  the  greatest 
difficulty  has  been  overcome. 

September  26,  at  9 a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Fer- 
nando Po,  which  is  an  island  belonging  to  Spain, 
and  is  situated  in  North  Latitude  3°  46',  and  East 
Longitude  8°  47'.  It  is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  is 
evidently  the  summit  of  a continuous  chain  of 
volcanic  elevations  which,  in  addition  to  Fernando 
Po,  forms  the  islands  of  Princess,  St.  Thomas,  and 
Annobom.  The  highest  peak  of  Fernando  Po, 
which  is  cone-shaped,  is  said  to  be  10,000  feet. 


164 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Clarence  Cove,  on  the  west  side  of  the  island, 
furnishes  excellent  anchorage  for  shipping,  and  in 
point  of  natural  formation  and  tropical  verdure  is 
one  of  the  most  inviting  and  picturesque  places 
that  1 have  thus  far  seen  during  my  voyage. 

The  natives  of  this  island,  numbering  perhaps 
20,000,  are  known  by  the  name  of  “ Boobies.’5 
They  are  a healthy-looking  people,  though  in  stat- 
ure below  the  average  height.  They  render  their 
persons  disgustingly  filthy  by  besmearing  them- 
selves with  oil.  To  all  appearances  they  are  an  in- 
ferior people,  somewhat  on  the  level  with  the  bush- 
men  of  South  Africa.  They  are  very  peaceably 
disposed,  and  occupy  the  mountainous  regions 
away  from  the  beach.  They  were  never  enslaved, 
and  are  evidently  too  weak  to  survive  the  attrition 
of  civilizing  processes,  and  therefore  will  ultimate- 
ly disappear. 

In  1826  Great  Britain  leased  this  island  for  a 
term  of  fifty  years,  during  which  time  several  hun- 
dred emigrants  were  brought  to  it  from  Sierra 
Leone,  Cape  Coast,  and  other  places  in  the  British 
Colonies  of  West  Africa.  Some  of  the  descendants 
of  this  class  are  to  be  found  in  and  around  Clarence 
Cove,  and  are  noted  for  their  intelligence,  thrift, 
and  industry.  Some  of  them  live  in  dwellings 
which  cost  from  $3,000  to  $5,000;  a few  have  large 
plantations,  and  engage  in  cocoa  raising  to  a con- 
siderable extent;  others  engage  largely  in  the  cul- 
tivation of  yams,  for  which  this  island  is  famous. 

The  bulk  of  trade,  which  is  not  very  extensive, 


Personal  Memoranda 


165 


is  controlled  by  Spanish  and  English  factories. 
There  are  a few  missions  on  the  island,  divided  be- 
tween the  Roman  Catholics  and  the  Primitive 
Methodists.  In  strolling  from  the  village  to  the 
Protestant  cemetery,  I meet  an  army  of  the  famous 
insects,  known  as  the  drivers,  and  am  very  much 
interested  in  their  movements. 

In  the  cemetery  I observe  a monument  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Mr.  William  Vivour,  formerly  a 
native  planter.  This  monument  is  forty  feet  high, 
and  was  brought  from  Liverpool  at  a cost  of  $600. 
I also  note  a monument  erected  to  the  memory  of 
another  native,  Mr.  William  Barleycorn,  the  cost 
of  Avhich  was  $300. 

I have  the  pleasure  ot  meeting  two  well  educated 
natives,  Rev.  William  Barleycorn,  educated  in  Bar- 
celona, Spain,  and  Dr.  T.  B.  Barber,  M.  B.,  C.  M., 
a graduate  of  Edinburgh  University,  Scotland. 

On  this  date  the  thermometer  registers  86°  Fahr. 
in  the  shade.  Stopping  time,  22  hours  and  25  min- 
utes. 

September  27  we  weigh  anchor  at  Fernando  Po, 
at  7.30  a.  m.,  and  steam  for  Victoria,  thirty  miles 
distant,  which  place  is  reached  in  about  three 
hours.  Though  the  distance  between  Fernando 
Po  and  Victoria  is  only  thirty  miles,  the  fare  is  $5 
for  either  first  or  second  cabin  passengers. 

Victoria  is  part  of  the  German  Protectorate  of 
Cameroons.  It  is  hid  away  in  a nook,  so  to  speak, 
and  contributes  very  little  to  trade  and  commerce. 
The  only  object  of  interest  is  the  Government  bo- 


166 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


tanical  garden,  which  is  used  for  experimenting  with 
the  native  flowers,  fruits,  etc. 

At  one  time  a great  part  of  Victoria  belonged  to 
the  English  Baptist  Missionary  Society,  and  was 
purchased  from  them  by  Germany  about  eight 
years  ago.  A branch  of  the  Basel  Mission  is  lo- 
cated here,  with  German  missionaries  in  charge. 
There  is  an  Independent  Baptist  Mission,  in  charge 
of  a native  by  the  name  of  Joseph  Wilson,  who 
was  educated  by  the  Church  Missionary  Society  at 
Sierra  Leone.  In  addition  to  his  clerical  duties,  he 
renders  service  to  the  Colonial  Authorities  as  Pres- 
ident of  the  Native  Court. 

The  native  population  of  this  place  is  a compound 
of  diverse  elements.  In  fact,  it  is  regarded  as  a 
rendezvous  for  bad  characters  from  other  places. 
It  is  a kind  of  “ thieves’  paradise.”  As  a rule,  the 
natives  are  indolent  and  trifling,  though  a few  of 
them  take  some  interest  in  agriculture. 

Domestic  animals,  such  as  pigs,  chickens,  ducks, 
goats,  sheep,  and  cattle,  are  to  be  found  in  abun- 
dance. 

Victoria  is  one  of  two  mountain  peaks,  named 
by  an  English  adventurer,  Victoria  and  Albert. 
Victoria  is  i 3 , 7 0 0 feet  high. 

The  thermometer  registers  81°  on  board  ship  at 
anchor.  Stopping  time,  14  hours  and  50  minutes. 

September  28,  at  2.35  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for 
Cameroons — the  “mountain  mass,”  so  called — sit- 
uated on  the  mainland  over  against  the  island  of 
Fernando  Po.  It  has  an  area  of  about  11,000 


BOTANICAL  GARDEN,  VICTORIA 


Personal  Memoranda. 


169 


square  miles,  and  an  approximate  population  of 
■180,000.  The  general  term  “ Cameroons  ” is  ap- 
plied to  four  distinct  objects  : Cameroons  Country, 
Cameroons  Mountains,  Cameroons  River,  and  Cam- 
eroons Town.  The  latter  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  about  twenty  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Cameroons  Town  is  the  seat  of  the  Colo- 
nial Government,  and  is  flanked  on  either  side  by 
a native  village — Aqua  Town  on  the  left,  and  Bell 
Town  on  the  right,  as  you  look  toward  the  north. 
At  5.30  P.  M.  we  drop  anchor  off  Cameroons  Town. 

The  Government  buildings  are  substantial  and 
commodious,  and  are  surrounded  by  fairly  improved 
grounds.  The  trade  is  principally  in  the  hands  of 
the  English,  though  there  are  Genian  and  Swede 
factories.  I try  to  obtain  an  approximate  estimate 
of  the  aggregate  population  of  the  two  native  towns, 
but  fail.  They  are  the  largest,  however,  of  any  I 
have  yet  seen  adjoining  a European  settlement. 
They  bear  the  names  of  their  rulers,  King  Bell  and 
King  Aqua,  though  the  latter  is  regarded  as  subor- 
dinate to  the  former.  Of  the  two  towns,  Bell  Town 
is  much  the  larger.  The  natives  are  known  far 
and  near  for  their  cunningness  in  trade  and  dishon- 
est practices.  The  tribal  name  of  the  people  is 
“Dwalla.”  Cameroons  is  the  English  name. 

September  29  I go  ashore  and  visit  Bell  Town, 
in  company  with  Prince  William,  a son  of  King 
Bell,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  his  father.  I am 
disappointed,  however,  as  he  is  absent  at  Cameroons 
Town.  Prince  William  superintends  a trading 


170 


Glimpses  of  Af  rica. 


store,  called  “Royal  Factory,”  the  property  of  his 
brother,  Prince  Manga  Bell.  I am  introduced  to 
Prince  Manga  Bell,  eldest  son  of  King  Bell,  heir 
apparent  to  the  throne,  and  have  a long  palaver 
with  him  in  his  hut.  He  is  probably  about  thirty- 
live  years  of  age,  tall,  of  powerful  build,  and  of  a 
rather  commanding  presence.  He  was  educated  in 
England,  is  evidently  shrewd  and  industrious,  ot 
good  business  tact,  genial  in  his  disposition,  very 
courteous  to  strangers,  and  observes  the  customs  of 
his  people.  Though  educated  in  England  under 
Christian  influences,  he  is  a polygamist,  and  has 
fifteen  wives.  He  is  building  a seven-room  house, 
with  brick  made  on  the  ground.  The  work  is  be- 
ing done  by  mechanics  from  Accra. and  the  founda- 
tion and  first  story  are  complete. 

During  a conversation  with  him  I tell  him  that 
rum  will  eventually  prove  the  destruction  of  his 
people,  and  that  such,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  pur- 
pose of  some  of  the  European  peoples — notably  the 
Germans  and  Belgians.  He  seems  to  fully  under 
stand  and  appreciate  the  force  of  my  remarks,  and 
cordially  thanks  me  for  my  seeming  interest  in 
the  welfare  of  his  people.  He  promises  to  secure 
me  an  interview  with  his  father  the  next  day,  and 
Prince  William  promises  to  send  a canoe  to  the 
ship  for  me. 

September  30  (Sunday)  Prince  William  fails  to 
keep  his  promise  to  send  a canoe  to  the  ship  to  con- 
vey me  to  Bell  Town,  and  so  I spend  the  entire  day 
quietly  on  hoard. 


A STREET  IN  BELL  TOWN,  CAMEROON'S. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


173 


October  1,  3 p.  m.,  I go  ashore  to  post  some  let- 
ters. As  I pass  through  Aqua  Town  I meet  King- 
Aqua,  an  old,  shriveled-up,  drunken  sot.  He  is 
engaged  in  a dance  with  several  of  his  head  men. 
It  is  impossible  to  give  anything  like  an  accurate 
description  of  the  dance,  if  dance  it  may  be  called. 
There  is  no  swaying  of  the  hands  or  shuffling  of 
the  feet,  but  seemingly  a mere  shrugging  of  the 
muscles  of  the  shoulders  and  back.  The  music  is 
made  on  a tom-tom,  a native  drum  of  curious  and 
ingenious  construction.  As  I approach  the  palaver 
house  where  the  dance  is  going  on,  the  music  and 
dance  suddenly  cease.  I am  accosted  by  a head 
man,  avIio  with  great  suavity  of  manner  informs  me 
that  if  I want  to  see  them  dance  I must  give  them 
“ dash.”  I proffer  a sixpence,  which  is  readily  ac- 
cepted, the  dance  is  resumed,  and  provokes  on  my 
part  a very  decided  feeling  of  disgust. 

Securing  a guide,  I wend  my  way  to  the  post 
office,  about  a mile  and  a half  distant,  where  I meet 
Thomas  Tracy  Adams,  a native  telegrapher  from 
Accra  in  the  employ  of  the  Government.  He  has 
been  in  the  telegraph  service  since  1889.  He  does 
not  like  the  Germans,  and  has  forwarded  his  resig- 
nation to  the  home  Government  at  Berlin. 

From  the  post  office  I proceed  a second  time  to 
Bell  Town,  where  I have  a second  conversation 
with  Prince  Manga.  The  interview  is  quite  ex- 
tended, and  covers  many  phases  of  the  question 
pertaining  to  the  development  of  his  country  by 
Europeans.  In  reply  to  a direct  inquiry  if  he 


174 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


thought  his  people  would  ever  become  civilized  as 
Europeans  are  civilized,  he  expresses  doubt,  and 
says,  “ If  so,  it  will  be  a long,  long  time.”  “Don’t 
know,”  is  his  reply  when  asked  if  he  thought  the 
Europeans  would  settle  in  his  country  in  great 
numbers. 

In  passing  through,  this  village  I meet  a native 
carpenter  at  work,  and  ask  him  why  he  does  not 
build  a big  house  for  himself.  He  answers,  “Me 
no  fit  to  have  big  house.” 

After  purchasing  six  small  elephant  tusks,  and 
making  arrangements  with  Prince  Manga  to  see 
King  Bell  on  the  morrow,  I return  to  the  ship. 

October  2 I proceed  to  Bell  Town  m a canoe 
which  was  furnished  me  by  Prince  Manga,  this  be- 
ing my  third  visit  to  that  place.  I take  with  me  my 
Knight  Templar  accouterments  and  a banner  repre- 
senting the  A.  M.  E.  Church  and  its  Sunday  School 
Union.  On  landing,  I stop  a few  moments  at 
“ Royal  Factory,”  where  I make  arrangements  with 
a native  photographer  to  photograph  a group  which 
I will  arrange  after  my  visit  to  King  Bell.  From 
“ Royal  Factory  ” I proceed  to  the  house  of  Prince 
Manga,  where  I prepare  for  my  visit  to  King  Bell. 
My  Knight  Templar  accouterments  are  resplendent 
with  the  rays  of  the  tropical  sun,  and  in  striking 
contrast  with  the  surroundings.  After  completing 
my  personal  adornment,  I proceed  in  company  with 
Prince  Manga  to  the  “ court”  of  King  Bell.  The 
introduction  to  King  Bell  takes  place  in  the  “guest 
chamber  ” ot  his  private  apartments,  where  I am 


CAPE  LOPEZ  GLRL.  PRINCE  MANGA  BELL  AND  FAVORITE  WIVES. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


177 


offered  and  drink  a bottle  of  ginger  ale,  in  token 
of  mutual  respect  and  good  will.  A brief  conver- 
sation follows,  after  which  we  proceed  to  the  palaver 
house,  where  an  extended  interview  takes  place  in 
the  presence  of  a large  number  of  the  head  men  of 
the  king. 

King  Bell  is  about  six  feet  high,  weighs  about 
two  hundred  and  eighty  pounds,  has  keen  eyes,  in- 
telligent countenance,  is  polite  in  manner,  speaks 
fair  English,  has  a good  memory,  and  impresses 
one  as  being  kindly  disposed.  He  has  a royal 
mien,  and  is  evidently  connected  with  a long  line 
of  African  kings.  His  complexion  is  of  a rich  cop- 
per color,  which  is  the  characteristic  hue  of  his 
people.  In  answer  to  the  inquiry  why  his  country 
was  not  under  British  influence  instead  of  Ger- 
man, lie  replies  that  two  messages  had  been  sent  to 
the  Queen  of  England  to  take  charge  of  their  coun- 
try; that  they  had  waited  two  years  for  an  answer 
to  the  first  one,  and  nine  years  for  an  answer  to  the 
second,  and  in  both  cases  their  waiting  proved  in 
vain.  It  was  then  that  they  accepted  a German 
Protectorate,  in  order  to  put  an  end  to  their  inter- 
tribal wars.  I call  his  attention  to  the  oft-repeated 
assertion  of  Europeans  that  his  people  were  great 
thieves,  which  provokes  the  solemn  reply  : “Until 
white  men  brought  my  people  clothes  with  pock- 
ets, they  had  nothing  to  hide  anything  in.  The 
matted  bunch  of  palm  leaves  or  the  simple  loin 
cloth,  which  had  been  their  only  dress  from  time  im- 
memorial, did  not  afford  concealment  for  any  ob- 
12 


178 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


ject.”  I then  repeat  to  him  what  I had  said  in 
substance  to  Prince  Manga  in  regard  to  the  rum 
traffic.  I refer  to  the  fate  of  the  North  American 
Indians,  and  the  withering  effect  of  “tire  water” 
upon  them.  I tell  him  that  in  my  opinion  the  Eu- 
ropeans want  to  get  possession  of  the  lands  of  his 
people,  and  that  they  are  deluging  the  country  with 
liquid  poison,  under  the  name  of  gin,  in  order  to 
weaken  and  decimate  them.  Turning  from  me  to 
his  head  men,  who  are  surrounding  him,  he  appar- 
ently explains  to  them  what  I have  just  said  in  re- 
gard to  the  gin  traffic,  and  the  effect  is  the  mani- 
festation of  general  surprise.  I urge  him  to  exhort 
his  people  to  at  once  discontinue  the  use  of  gin  and 
all  alcoholic  stimulants. 

He  has  knowledge  that  slavery  existed  in  Amer- 
ica many  years,  and  recollects  the  last  Portuguese 
slave  ship  that  visited  his  country,  his  father  at  the 
time  being  king.  Ilealso  recollects  a message  sent 
to  his  father  from  England,  imploring  him  to  aban- 
don the  slave  trade.  Iving  Bell  listens  to  me 
throughout  with  the  closest  attention,  though  he 
says  but  little,  seemingly  being  content  to  briefly 
answer  such  questions  as  I address  to  him.  He 
has  many  head  men,  plenty  of  slaves,  and  is  said  to 
have  eighty  wives.  I explain  to  him,  as  far  as  is  per- 
missible, the  objects  of  Knight  Templarism ; and 
he  is  greatly  impressed  when  I tell  him  that  the 
sword  is  an  emblem  of  peace,  and  not  of  warfare, 
and  that  it  is  a token  of  good  will  toward  all  men. 

At  the  close  of  the  interview  I repair  to  the  shade 


SMITH  AND  HIS  ADOPTED  FAMILY  OF  DWALLA  CHILDKi 


Personal  Memoranda. 


181 


of  a mangrove  tree,  and  surround  myself  with  a 
number  of  native  children,  and  have  a photograph 
taken.  I try  in  vain  to  have  King  Bell  sit  for  a 
photo. 

The  houses  at  Bell  Town  are  of  parallelogram 
shape,  and  made  of  bamboo.  Borne  of  them  are 
quite  long,  one  being  175  feet  by  actual  measure- 
ment, and  they  are  well  constructed.  The  streets 
are  broad  and  regular,  and  the  place  is  enriched  and 
adorned  with  every  kind  of  tropical  fruit.  Of  the 
fruits  I recollect  the  following:  Oranges,  limes, 
bananas,  cocoanuts,  papaws,  mangoes,  pineapples, 
alligator  pears,  and  guaves.  A civilized  people, 
with  proper  appliances,  could  make  it  a veritable 
Eden. 

To  give  an  idea  of  the  size  of  some  of  the  native 
war  canoes,  one  which  I measure  is  75  feet  long 
and  6 spans  wide,  hewn  out  of  the  trunk  of  a sin- 
gle tree.  The  Dwalla  people  are  very  expert  in 
canoe-making,  and  are  noted  for  their  rapid  and 
regular  movement  in  paddling.  They  are  also 
skillful  in  making  benches,  or  stools,  carved  out  of 
a single  block  of  wood,  which  on  the  average  are 
7 inches  broad,  9 inches  high,  and  16  inches  long. 
I am  in  possession  of  two  of  these,  one  being  a 
present  from  King  Bell.  They  also  make  unique 
and  attractive  bird  cages.  In  the  use  of  the  Afri- 
can telephone  they  are  perhaps  unexcelled  by  any 
tribe  in  the  “Dark  Continent.”  The  formation 
and  use  of  this  instrument,  one  of  which  I possess, 
is  thus  described : 


182 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Telephonic  communication  is  by  no  means  one  of  the  new 
things  under  the  sun— especially  under  the  tropical  Congo  sun 
— for  the.  various  tribes  dwelling  on  the  banks  of  the  Congo, 
both  on  the  upper  and  lower  river,  have  for  ages  had  a very 
complete  system  of  telegraphing  by  sound,  or  telephoning,  as 
it  is  called.  They  are  perfectly  able  to  communicate  in  this 
way  any  word  or  sentence  ; anything,  in  fact,  which  they  are 
able  to  speak  themselves  they  can  transmit  to  towns  a long 
distance  off,  but  which  are  within  hearing  distance. 

This  communication  is  effected  by  means  of  a kind  of  drum, 
which  is  made  of  very  hard  wood,  hollow  throughout,  and  va- 
rying in  thickness,  so  that  when  struck  from  the  inside  as 
many  as  four  different  tones  or  sounds  can  be  produced. 

The  operator  holds  in  each  hand  a drumstick,  and  by  vary- 
ing the  intervals  between  the  beats  upon  the  different  toned 
sides  of  the  drum  an  almost  infinite  variety  of  signals  can  be 
conveyed  to  the  ear.  Usually  the  natives  take  this  drum  down 
to  the  water’s  edge,  as  they  know  by  practical  experience  that 
sound  travels  much  farther  over  water  surface  than  over  land. 
The  town  is  first  “called,’  and  when  reply  is  made,  the  mes- 
sage to  be  conveyed  is  beaten  out  syllable  by  syllable.  But  its 
uses  are  by  no  means  confined  to  communication  with  neigh- 
boring towns,  but  far  more  frequently  it  is  employed  for  local 
purposes.  For  instance,  the  drum  will  suddenly  sound  out  the 
name  of  some  individual  who  belongs  to  the  same  town,  and 
who  is  perhaps  in  the  forest  hard  by  or  at  the  mission  station  ; 
and  he  is  told  that  his  chief  wants  to  speak  to  him,  or  his  wife 
may  intimate  that  dinner  is  quite  ready,  or  a trusting  friend 
will  publicly  advise  him  that  he  will  be  very  glad  of  repayment 
of  the  fifty  brass  rods  borrowed  in  the  more  or  less  remote  past; 
and  so  on. 

In  the  Cataract  Region,  in  towns  away  from  the  river,  the 
natives  communicate  with  other  towns  chiefly  at  night,  when 
everything  is  so  still  and  quiet  that  the  cry  of  the  jackal  or  the 
hooting  of  the  owl  can  be  heard  many  miles  away. 

At  Palabala  they  carry  the  drum  to  the  side  of  the  bill  when 
they  wish  to  send  a message  to  Nokki,  a town  on  a neighboring 
hill,  but  which  is  six  to  seven  miles  off  as  the  crow  flies.  After 


THE  AFRICAN  TELEPHONE. 


A CAMEROONS  STOOL. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


185 


some  amount  of  beating,  in  a peculiar,  irregular  way,  they  pause, 
and  the  sound  of  an  answering  drum  atNokki  can  be  distinctly, 
though  faintly,  heard.  Then  some  words  or  part  of  message  is 
telephoned,  and  the  answering  signal  “all  right”  is  given  after 
each  pause.  Then  the  Palabala  drum  will  stop,  and  the  Nok- 
ki  drum  beat  out  some  reply,  to  which  the  responses  will  be 
given  in  due  order. 

These  drums  are  especially  valuable  in  time  of  dispute  or 
war,  for  an  international  question  can  be  argued  under  the  very 
best  possible  conditions,  when  every  one  is  calm,  and  the  wit 
and  wisdom  of  each  town  fully  available  to  assist  negotiations. 
In  case  of  an  attack  being  intended  upon  a neighboring  town, 
due  notice  would  be  given,  as  a matter  of  course,  by  means  of 
the  drum,  and  the  time  of  the  day  (or  position  of  the  sun)  duly 
notified  when  the  attack  might  be  expected. 

By  a process  of  tattooing  the  Dwalla  women  ren- 
der their  persons  very  unattractive. 

I now  record  the  circumstance  of  a revolt  which 
took  place  in  Cameroons  Town  in  1898.  December 
15  of  that  year  Acting  Governor  Leist  ordered  the 
wives  of  some  of  the  Dahomey  soldiers,  who  were 
stationed  there  at  that  time,  to  cut  grass,  which 
after  some  remonstrance  they  did ; but,  failing  to 
cut  it  exactly  as  he  had  instructed  them,  he  had 
them  flogged,  an  act  which  greatly  incensed  their 
husbands — so  much  so  that  they  resolved  to  retal- 
iate. About  6.30  p.  m.  of  the  same  day  the  ag- 
grieved soldiers  instituted  a revolt.  They  seized 
the  arsenal,  surrounded  the  government  house,  and 
tired  on  the  officials  while  they  were  at  dinner,  with 
the  result  that  one  of  the  officials  was  killed.  USTearly 
all  the  Europeans  took  refuge  on  the  British  steam- 
ship “Benguela,”  which  was  then  in  the  river  near 
thetown.  The  revolt  came  to  an  end  on  the  23d,  with 


186 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

great,  disaster  to  the  revolters,  many  of  whoni'were 
cruelly  tortured  and  then  hanged.  The  revolt  was 
subdued  by  the  aid  of  a German  warship,  which 
made  its  appearance  on  the  18th.  At  the  time  of 
the  revolt  the  entire  soldiery  consisted  of  the  Vey 
and  Dahomey  peoples.  None  of  the  Veys  took 
part  in  the  revolt,  and  only  a part  of  the  Dahomey  s. 
I he  Dwalla  people  took  no  part  in  it,  and  yet  their 
village  (Bell  Town)  was  burned  by  order  of  the  au- 
thorities. King  Bell  feels  greatly  aggrieved  over 
the  burning  of  his  house,  as  it  contained  many  val- 
uables, all  of  which  were  consumed.  Acting  Gov- 
ernor Deist,  who  is  reported  to  be  a veritable  beast, 
was  recalled,  and  is  now  in  Germany,  said  to  be 
waiting  trial  for  abuse  of  authority. 

Facilities  for  the  secular  and  religious  instruction 
of  the  natives  are  very  limited.  There  is  only  one 
English  Mission  (Baptist),  conducted  by  a native 
preacher,  formerly  connected  with  the  Baptist  Mis- 
sion in  Victoria.  Stopping  time,  4 days  and  40 
minutes. 

October  3,  6 a.  m.,  Ave  steam  for  Batanga,  eighty 
miles  distant,  which  place  is  reached  at  3.15  p.  m. 
Big  Batanga  Falls,  near  the  beach,  is  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  interest.  There  are  tAvo  missions — German 
Catholic  and  Presbyterian.  The  Catholic  Mission 
embraces  industrial  training,  but  the  Presbyterian 
does  not.  The  principal  article  of  trade  is  rubber. 
There  are  three  native  chiefs — Bobala,  Modala,and 
William.  The  former  is  a representative  of  the 
German  Government,  Batanga  being  in  German 


BIG  BATANGA  FALLS  (GERMAN). 


Personal  Memoranda. 


189 


territory.  Back  of  Big  Batanga  Falls  there  is  an 
imposing  elevation,  called  “Elephant  Mountain.” 
The  Presbyterian  Mission  is  supported  by  the 
American  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign  Missions, 
and  is  one  of  a chain  of  missions  stretching  from 
Batanga  to  Gaboon.  There  are  fourteen  white  mis- 
sionaries and  teachers  connected  with  the  work — 
seven  males  and  seven  females.  The  health  of  the 
place  is  considered  fairly  good,  and  I am  informed 
that  only  one  death  had  occurred  in  live  years, 
which  was  caused  mainly  by  neglect.  Rev.  A. 
Ford  is  treasurer  of  the  local  Presbytery,  and  C.  J. 
Baffin,  M.  D.,  is  physician  in  charge.  I am  in- 
formed by  Dr.  Baffin  that  the  chiefs  Bobala  and 
Modala  have  constructed  a building  for  hospital 
purposes,  capable  of  containing  thirty-two  beds. 
Bobala  is  chief  of  Bopuka,  and  Modala  is  chief  of 
Bawoka.  According  to  the  statement  of  Dr.  Baf- 
fin, Modala  has  ordered  a $2,500  house  from  En- 
gland. 

The  Batanga  people,  though  not  always  living 
on  the  seaboard,  have  become  noted  canoemen. 
They  have  two  kinds  of  canoes.  One  is  made  of 
cork  wood  and  very  light,  and  intended  only  for 
one  person.  The  other  is  made  of  hard  wood,  and 
is  smooth  and  tapering  at  both  ends,  but  is  large 
enough  to  carry  thirty  or  forty  people.  The  smaller 
canoe  does  not  weigh  more  than  twenty  or  thirty 
pounds,  and  is  too  narrow  for  an  ordinarily  sized 
person  to  be  seated  in.  A saddle,  or  bridge,  which 
is  used  as  a seat,  is  laid  across  the  middle  not  more 


190 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


than  two  inches  wide,  and  somewhat  higher  than 
the  sides  of  the  canoe.  They  use  very  light  pad- 
dles, and  scud  over  the  roughest  sea  without  dan- 
ger and  with  almost  incredible  velocity.  They  pro- 
pel chiefly  with  the  left  hand,  use  one  foot  as  a 
balance,  which  they  continually  keep  in  the  water, 
and  when  necessary  use  the  right  hand  to  bail  out 
water  ; and  when  they  would  rest  their  arms,  one  leg 
is  thrown  out  on  either  side  of  the  canoe,  and  it  is 
propelled  almost  as  fast  with  their  feet  as  with  the 
paddle.  When  tired  of  running  around  the  ship  a 
man  will  climb  up  her  side  with  one  hand,  and 
haul  up  his  canoe  with  the  other.  When  they  ap- 
proach a ship  from  the  beach  they  look  somewhat 
like  a flock  of  blackbirds.  I weigh  one  of  their  ca- 
noes, and  it  weighs  twenty-seven  pounds. 

There  are  three  trading  places  at  this  point. 
Stopping  time,  14  hours  and  5 minutes.  Ther- 
mometer, 82°  at  sea. 

October  4,  10  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Batta, 
seventy  miles  distant.  This  is  disputed  territory, 
being  claimed  by  both  the  French  and  Spanish. 
There  are  English  and  German  trading  houses,  one 
mission  (Catholic),  which  has  the  industrial  feature 
connected  with  it.  The  beach  is  very  pretty,  and 
the  trading  houses  are  well  constructed  and  invit- 
ing in  appearance.  A native  is  brought  aboard  our 
ship  with  a spearhead  in  his  neck,  seemingly  in 
very  great  distress.  He  is  accompanied  by  a Eu- 
ropean, who  seems  deeply  concerned  about  him, 
and  who  arranges' with'  the  ship’s  surgeon  to  re- 


Personal  Memoranda. 


191 


move  the  spearhead.  The  operation  is  watched 
with  great  interest  by  all  on  hoard.  The  native  is 
put  under  the  influence  of  ether,  and  the  spearhead 
is  successfully  removed.  The  question  arises  as  to 
the  wisdom  of  taking  the  native  hack  to  the  beach 
that  night,  some  thinking  such  a move  might  be 
dangerous.  The  European  replies  that  he  had  to  be 
taken  hack,  whatever  the  consequences  might  be ; 
for  if  they  should  fail  to  take  him  back,  his  friends 
would  claim  that  he  had  died,  and  would  instantly 
set  upon  the  individual  who  had  made  the  assault 
upon  him,  and  subject  him  to  torture.  I inquire  of 
the  European  why  they  allow  such  practices  to  he 
carried  on,  and  he  states  that  they  cannot  help 
themselves.  I further  ask  him  what  will  he  the 
penalty  imposed,  and  he  replies  that  the  fingers  on 
the  hands  of  the  assailant  will  he  broken,  so  that 
he  can  no  longer  handle  a spear.  At  this  place  I 
see  another  Albino.  Stopping  tirne,  5 hours  and 
15  minutes. 

At  10.30  p.  m.  we  weigh  anchor  for  Eloby. 

October  5,  en  route  to  Eloby,  we  pass  the  beauti- 
ful island  of  Corisco.  It  indeed  presents  a charm- 
ing aspect.  It  is  stated  that  no  Europeans  dwell 
there.  At  one  time  there  was  a Presbyterian  Mis- 
sion located  there,  conducted  by  white  missionaries; 
but  a scandalous  report  having  arisen  concerning 
the  conduct  of  one  of  them,  the  natives  asked  for 
their  removal.  Since  then  mission  work  has  been 
conducted  by  a civilized  native  from  Cape  St. 
John, 


192 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


At  9.40  a.  m.  we  drop  anchor  at  Eloby.  The 
Mooney  River  lies  to  the  left;  it  is  in  Spanish  terri- 
tory. There  is  a Catholic  Mission  and  school. 
The  natives  are  known  as  the  Benga  people.  The 
population  of  the  main  island  is  said  to  be  less  than 
two  thousand,  while  that  of  the  whole  tribe  would 
scarcely  exceed  eight  thousand.  There  is,  howev- 
er, twice  as  large  a population  around  the  bay 
and  up  the  river  who  speak  the  Benga  language, 
and  differ  very  slightly  as  a people.  The  Benga 
people  look  down  on  those  as  inferior  people,  and 
do  not  hesitate  to  bestow  upon  them  the  name  ot 
“ bushmen.”  In  point  of  civilization  the  Corisco 
people  are  decidedly  in  advance  of  the  Dwalla  or 
Benaka  tribes,  but  behind  the  Mpongwes  in  point 
of  cultivated  manners.  In  physical  characteris- 
tics they  are  more  like  the  Dwalla  people  than  the 
Gaboon  people,  bnt  their  language  shows  a strong- 
er affinity  for  the  Balcele  than  for  either  of  the  oth- 
ers. They  are  generally  very  black,  tall  and  some- 
what  ill-formed,  and  have  great  power  of  endurance. 
In  former  years  they  were  constantly  embroiled  in 
petty  fends  among  themselves.  There  are  but  few 
adults  at  the  present  day  who  cannot  show  scars 
that  they  have  received  in  drunken  frays.  Of  late 
years,  however,  there  has  been  a marked  improve- 
ment in  their  general  character  and  deportment. 
The  island  was  named  Corisco  by  the  Spanish  on 
account  of  the  heavy  lightning  and  thunder  which 
prevail  here  at  certain  seasons.  I make  the  ac- 
quaintance of  an  educated  native,  named  Joseph  R. 


GOVERNMENT  BUILDING,  ELOBY  ISLAND. 


I 


Personal  Memoranda. 


195 


Anquile,  who  is  serving  as  Government  Interpre- 
ter. Stopping  time,  4 hours  and  35  minutes. 

At  11.30  a.  m.  we  leave  for  Ukaka,  four  miles 
distant.  There  is  one  neat  and  attractive  trading 
place.  A stranded  steamcraft  lies  rotting  on  the 
beach.  The  natives  belong  to  the  Mpongwe  tribe, 
who  at  one  time  dwelt  in  the  hinterland,  but  grad- 
ually forced  their  way  to  the  beach,  and  became 
mingled  with  the  maritime  tribes.  The  territory  is 
in  dispute  between  the  French  and  German.  Stop- 
ping time,  2 hours. 

At  5.20  p.  M.  we  weigh  anchor  for  Gaboon. 

October  6,  8.30  a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Gaboon, 
which  is  the  seat  of  the  Colonial  Government  for 
the  French  Possession  known  as  the  Gaboon  coun- 
try. The  Government  buildings  are  the  most  im- 
posing and  costly  which  I have  yet  seen.  There 
are  two  hospitals — one  stationary,  and  the  other 
floating,  being  anchored  in  the  river.  There  are 
many  civilizing  agencies  planted  at  this  place.  The 
streets  are  highly  improved,  and  all  ravines  or  la- 
goons in  or  adjacent  to  the  town  are  spanned  by 
iron  bridges.  There  is  a light  tramway  of  two  or 
three  miles’  length,  which  is  used  for  transporting 
stones  from  quarries  near  by,  to  be  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  Government  pier,  which  is  rapidly 
reaching  completion,  and  which  it  is  said  will  be 
one  of  the  best  of  its  kind  to  be  found  anywhere  on 
the  West  and  Southwest  Coast.  There  is  a large, 
airy,  and  well-constructed  machine  shop,  tilled  with 
machinery  of  various  kinds  and  for  various  pur- 


196 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


poses.  It  is  in  charge  of  a Frenchman,  who  has  na- 
tives and  French -Africans 'as  assistants.  By  French  - 
African  is  meant  the  issue  of  a French  father  and 
an  African  woman.  A French-African  is  in  charge 
of  the  engine.  The  place  enjoys  the  convenience  of 
a telephone  system,  which  connects  all  the  factories 
and  the  Government  buildings,  and  the  system  is 
as  perfect  and  efficient  as  is  to  be  found  in  any  Eu- 
ropean center.  The  Colony  is  connected  with 
France  by  cable,  and  the  rate  per  word  is  the  low- 
est of  any  place  on  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast. 
There  are  two  missions — Presbyterian  and  French- 
Catholic.  The  former  was  founded  by  the  Amer- 
ican Baptist  Foreign  Missionary  Society  in  1842, 
and  the  Presbyterians  assumed  control  in  1870. 
The  Presbyterian  Mission  has  large  and  well-im- 
proved grounds  located  on  an  elevation.  The 
equipment  consists  of  a well-constructed  and  ap- 
pointed residence  for  the  missionaries,  a school- 
house,  and  a church.  The  school,  which  is  now  in 
charge  of  a Swede,  has  both  male  and  female  stu- 
dents. The  church  has  sixty  communicants, and  the 
school  has  twenty  boarding  pupils  and  twenty  day 
pupils.  The  cost  of  the  mission  house,  which  con- 
tains eight  rooms,  was  $1,500.  The  school  house, 
which  is  large  enough  to  accommodate  one  hundred 
pupils,  and  which  has  a galvanized  iron  roof,  cost 
$350.  The  mission  house  has  a bamboo  roof.  The 
difference  in  cost  between  a galvanized  iron  roof  and 
a bamboo  roof  is  about  $200.  This  Mission  is  now 
greatly  inconvenienced  by  an  edict  recently  issued 


CONGO  GIRL.  GABOON  WOMEN. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


199 


by  the  French  Government,  interdicting  the  teach- 
ing of  any  other  language  in  the  schools  except 
that  of  the  French.  On  account  of  this  edict  the 
Presbyterian  Mission,  located  on  the  Ogowe  River, 
has  been  placed  under  the  control  of  French  Prot- 
estants. The  European  population  numbers  200, 
of  whom  175  are  males  and  25  females,  5 of  whom 
are  said  to  be  dissolute  characters,  and  never  appear 
in  public.  Libreville,  a native  name  for  the  town  of 
Gaboon,  has  a population  of  about  3,000.  The  native 
women  of  this  place  are  noted  far  and  near  for  their 
regular  features,  long  hair,  and  smooth  skin.  They 
are  said  to  he  the  handsomest  women  on  the  W est  and 
Southwest  Coast.  They  are  said  to  be  very  licen- 
tious, however,  and  are  eagerly  sought  for  by  traders 
all  along  the  Southwest  Coast.  Most  of  the  adult 
population  speak  either  the  English  or  French  lan- 
guage with  tolerable  ease.  At  one  time  an  Amer- 
ican Consul  was  stationed  at  Libre ville.  Years  ago 
two  natives  of  great  prominence  and  influence  re- 
sided here — one  known  among  the  English  and 
Americans  by  the  name  of  Xing  William,  and  by 
the  French  as  King  Bennie  ; the  other,  the  princi- 
pal trader  among  King  Glass’  people,  is  known  by 
the  name  of  Toka.  Both  of  them  were  men  of  re- 
markable personal  appearance,  and  very  close  ob- 
servers of  men  and  things.  Bennie  was  a man  of 
medium  stature,  with  a compact  and  well-formed 
frame,  and  of  great  muscular  power.  Ilis  complex- 
ion was  very  black,  and  was  rendered  more  remark- 
able by  a snow-white  beard,  with  which  the  lower 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


i!00 


part  of  his  face  was  covered.  Toka  was  about  the 
same  size  and  complexion,  but  with  features  more 
thoroughly  African  than  the  generality  of  his  na- 
tive tribe.  He  had,  nevertheless,  a very  remarka- 
ble and  intelligent  countenance,  strongly  marked 
with  a deep  vein  of  natural  humor  which  pervaded 
his  whole  composition. 

When  the  French  Government  proposed  to  form 
a naval  settlement  on  the  Gaboon,  some  years  ago, 
these  two  men  were  the  most  prominent  and  influ- 
ential in  the  country,  and  it  was  important  in  all 
things  that  their  consent  and  co-operation  should 
be  secured. 

Hennie  had  always  been  a favorite  with  the 
French,  while  Toka  was  disliked  for  his  overpar- 
tiality to  the  English.  The  former  spoke  the 
French  language  with  great  facility,  and  the  latter 
the  English  language  ; and  hence  their  respective 
partisanship.  Toka  saw  that  the  French  were  de- 
termined to  have  a station,  whether  the  people 
were  willing  or  not.  Perhaps  he  was  told  so, 
though  his  native  sagacity  would  have  led  him  to 
have  thought  so.  Toka  had  no  partiality  for  the 
French,  had  never  received  any  favors  at  their 
hands,  could  not  speak  their  language,  and  there- 
fore had  no  motive  in  consenting  to  their  getting  a 
foothold  in  the  country  ; hence  he  determined  to 
take  no  steps  that  would  give  the  French  a sem- 
blance of  a claim  to  the  country,  or  that  would  em- 
barrass the  English  in  case  they  sought  to  resent  it. 
The  stand  taken  by  Toka  commended  him  to  the 


TELEGRAPH  BUILDING,  GABOON. 


MRS.  BARBOUR’S  HOUSE,  FERNANDO  PQ. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


203 


respect  of  the  French,  though  they  were  not  a lit- 
tle annoyed  at  his  position.  Every  kind  of  motive 
was  now  brought  to  bear  upon  him  to  influence 
him,  but  utterly  failed  to  produce  any  other  effect 
than  to  provoke  his  obstinacy.  He  did  not  even 
submit  until  the  alternative  of  perpetual  exile  from 
his  family  and  country  was  before  him.  To  his 
purpose  he  adhered  until  he  was  the  last  and  only 
man  in  the  country  who  maintained  an  appearance 
or  show  of  opposition.  How  cordial  his  submission 
finally  was  can  be  seen  from  the  remark  of  one  of 
his  countrymen,  who  said  that  “ Toka  was  here- 
after to  love  the  French,  except  out  of  his  heart.” 

The  natives  belong  to  the  great  Mpongwe  fami- 
ly, and  are  noted  for  the  smoothness  and  polish 
which  they  evince  in  their  intercourse  with  the 
white  man.  They  are  kind,  sociable,  and  hospita- 
ble in  a high  degree,  but  very  ready  to  take  any 
and  every  advantage  that  they  possibly  can  in  trade. 
The  love  of  trade  is  their  ruling  passion,  and  they 
evince  a capacity  for  carrying  it  on  that  is  utterly 
surprising  to  educated  men. 

Opposite  Libreville,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ga- 
boon River,  is  a settlement  known  as  King  Will- 
iam’s side.  This  settlement  does  not  recognize  the 
authority  of  the  French,  and  has  as  its  ruler  Adan- 
dee,  one  of  the  surviving  sons  of  King  William, 
previously  referred  to.  Adandee  was  educated  in 
France,  and  is  said  to  possess  a highly  intelligent 
mind.  Some  years  ago  he  became  involved  in  a dis- 
pute with  the  F rench,  and  was  charged  with  treason- 


204 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


able  designs,  for  which  lie  was  ordered  to  be  ban- 
ished to  the  Senegal  country  ; but  during  his  trans- 
it he  managed  to  escape,  and  returned  to  his  pre- 
vious residence,  where  he  lias  remained  ever  since. 
He  has  repeatedly  declined  amnesty  offered  him  by 
the  French,  and  never  visits  Libreville  or  any  part 
of  the  south  side  of  the  Gaboon  River.  He  is  re- 
ported as  being  peaceable  and  courteous.  He  evi- 
dently inherits  the  sturdy  character  of  his  father, 
and  is  not  disposed  to  yield  his  ancient  rights,  nor 
to  compromise  the  interests  of  his  people  by  subor- 
dinating himself  to  the  French. 

It  was  on  King  William’s  side  that  Professor 
Garner  started  on  his  journey  to  Gorilla  Land,  for 
the  purpose  of  studying  the  language  of  the  man- 
apes.  There  are  a great  many  amusing  stories 
told  regarding  Professor  Garner’s  movements.  It 
is  said  that  he  pawned  his  steel  cage  at  Libreville, 
and  that  he  did  no  more  than  merely  make  a show 
of  effort  to  carry  out  his  original  designs. 

. There  is  a neatly  laid  out  burial  ground  connect- 
ed with  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  in  which  ten 
missionaries  ai'e  interred,  including  the  wife  and 
child  of  Dr.  Nassau,  who  has  been'  for  many  years 
in  charge  of  the  Mission.  The  graves  of  all  the 
missionaries  have  headstones  or  monuments.  One 
of  the  missionaries  buried  here  is  a Liberian — Mrs. 
Charity  L.  Menkel,  born  November  8, 1843,  at  Dan- 
ville, Ky. 

At  4 p.  M.  we  weigh  anchor  for  N’gove,  180  miles 
distant. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


205 


October  7,  at  sea,  en  route  to  N’gove,  which  point 
is  reached  at  4 r.  M. 

The  language  of  the  natives  of  this  place  has  a 
very  peculiar  guttural  sound,  unlike  that  of  any  of 
the  natives  with  whom  I have  thus  far  come  in 
contact.  There  are  but  two  trading  places  at  this 
point.  We  discharge  some  cargo.  Stopping  time, 
1 hour  and  5 minutes.  Thermometer,  80°  at  sea. 

October  8,  7.45  a.  m,  we  drop  anchor  at  Setta 
Cama,  situate  near  a river  of  the  same  name.  There 
are  four  trading  places  at  this  point.  Here  one  of 
the  Liverpool  passengers  disembarks.  For  the  first 
time  I see  a Portuguese-African,  by  which  I mean 
the  issue  of  a Portuguese  father  and  an  African 
mother.  Stopping  time,  6 hours  and  50  minutes. 
Thermometer,  80°  at  sea. 

At  9.30  a.  M.  we  weigh  anchor  for  Loanga.  At 
5.40  p.  m.  we  pass  Nyanga,  where  there  are  two  trad- 
ing houses. 

October  9,  8 a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Loanga,  an 
important  point  in  the  French  territory  on  the 
Southwest  Coast.  The  region  is  high  and  undulat- 
ing, and  is  the  coast  terminus  for  caravans  to  the 
French  territory  in  the  Upper  Congo  region,  and 
is  the  shortest  route  to  that  section  from  any  point 
on  the  Southwest  Coast.  The  natives  here  are 
quite  skillful  in  the  making  of  mats  and  baskets. 
There  is  one  Mission,  in  charge  of  French  Catho- 
lics. It  is  said  to  be  doing  a most  excellent  work 
in  training  the  native  youth  in  various  mechanical 
pursuits.  There  is  a printing  office  connected  with 


206 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

the  Mission,  which  does  all  the  work  for  the  Colo- 
nial authorities.  The  Government  buildings,  trad- 
ing places,  and  in  fact  all  the  buildings  of  European 
architectu  re  and  structure,  are  attractive.  Mr.  W al- 
tlier,  a German  missionary  who  embarked  at  Vic- 
toria, on  a trip  for  his  health  to  Loanda  and  return, 
unfortunately  got  left,  at  this  place.  Stopping  time, 
6 hours  and  40  minutes. 

At  1 p.  m.  we  steam  for  Quillo,  five  miles  distant, 
where  we  remain  all  night.  There  is  a French 
Catholic  Mission  at  this  place.  Thermometer  81° 
at  anchor.  Stopping  time,  20  hours  and  35  min- 
utes. 

October  10,  3 p.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Black 
Point,  fifteen  miles  distant.  There  is  one  trading- 
house,  the  owner  of  which  is  a Portuguese- African. 
This  man  is  in  high  repute,  and  is  said  to  have  a 
most  excellent  family,  his  wife  being  a native  of 
Loando.  Mr.  Waltlier,  who  got  left  at  Loango, 
overtook  us  at  this  place.  This  point  is  mentioned 
by  Mr.  Stanley  in  the  second  volume  of  his  “ Congo 
and  the  Founding  of  the  Free  State.”  Stopping- 
time,  1 hour  and  5 minutes.  AVe  steam  a short  dis- 
tance from  this  place,  and  anchor  all  night.  Ther- 
mometer, 81°. 

October  11,  8 a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Cabenda, 
the  seat  of  Colonial  Government  of  the  Portuguese 
territory  ot  the  same  name.  It  is  quite  a picturesque 
place,  with  many  well-constructed  and  attractive 
buildings.  There  is  a barracks,  in  which  native 
soldiers  are  quartered.  The  need  of  these  soldiers 


’ART  VIEW  OP  CABENDA  (PORTUGUESE). 


Personal  Memoranda. 


209 


is  not  made  apparent  to  me.  There  are  twenty  Si- 
erra Leone  mechanics  at  work  on  Government 
buildings.  Wages,  $1  per  day.  One  of  the  num- 
ber (Isaiah  B.  Wilson  by  name)  knew  Bishop  H. 
M.  Turner  and  Rev.  Geda,  of  the  African  Method- 
ist Episcopal  Church,  U.  S.  A.,  whom  he  met  when 
they  were  in  Sierra  Leone,  en  route  to  Monrovia, 
Liberia,  in  1891.  There  are  English  and  Dutch 
trading  houses  at  this  place.  Stopping  time,  9 
hours. 

At  4.25  P.  M.  we  Aveigli  anchor  for  the  Congo 
River.  Thermometer,  78°  at  anchor  in  CabendaBay. 

October  12,  7.10  a.  m.,  we  arrive  at  Banana  Point, 
mouth  of  the  Congo,  and,  after  taking  on  a pilot, 
proceed  to  Mali  11a,  a trading  place  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  distant  about  twenty- one  miles, 
where  we  take  on  a large  lot  of  palm  oil  and  ker- 
nels. Anchor  here  all  night.  Thermometer,  78°. 

October  B5,  on  leaving  Malilla  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, we  run  on  a bank  near  by,  where  we  remain 
until  1 p.  m.  There  is  general  rejoicing  when  we 
get  off.  At  Malilla  a well-dressed  Portuguese- 
African  (Valeriano  Fernandes  by  name)  embarks 
as  a first-class  passenger  from  Malilla  to  Noqui. 
He  is  very  reserved  and  affable  in  his  manners,  and, 
judging  from  his  general  conduct  and  movements, 
is  evidently  a person  of  some  culture.  He  cannot 
speak  a word  of  English.  Several  bolls  of  wild 
cotton  are  obtained  at  Malilla.  We  are  engaged 
6 hours  and  40  minutes  in  receiving  cargo.  Ther- 
mometer, 80°. 

14 


210 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


October  14,  8.05  a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Boma, 
the  capital  of  the  Congo  Free  State.  As  it  is  Sun- 
day, we  do  not  discharge  any  cargo,  but  land  seven- 
ty Mohammedans,  whom  we  brought  from  Lagos 
for  the  purpose  of  entering  the  military  service  of 
the  Congo  Free  State. 

At  11  a.  m.  we  weigh  anchor  for  Binda,  twenty- 
live  miles  distant,  where  we  take  on  a large  lot  of 
cargo  and  remain  all  night.  The  place  is  of  no 
special  importance,  and  has  only  one  trading  house. 
Stopping  time,  19  hours  and  5 minutes.  Ther- 
mometer, 80°  at  12  m.,  and  85°  at  4 p.  m. 

October  15,  8.15  a.  m.,  we  steam  for  Noqui,  twen- 
ty miles  distant,  which  place  we  reach  at  11  a.  m. 
It  is  in  Portuguese  territory,  and  is  evidently  the 
emporium  of  considerable  trade.  The  trading 
houses  are  very  inviting,  and  the  grounds  surround- 
ing them  are  well  kept  and  made  pleasing  to  the 
eye  by  the  growth  of  a variety  of  fruit  trees  and 
flowers.  There  is  one  English  trading  house;  the 
rest  are  Portuguese.  We  have  considerable  cargo 
to  discharge  here,  and  our  stopping  time  is  1 day, 
18  hours,  and  30  minutes.  Thermometer  on  the 
15th,  80°  at  4 p.  m.  October  16,  while  still  at  jSTo- 
qui,  the  thermometer  was  82°  at  12  m.,  and  86°  at 
4 P.  M. 

October  17,  5.40  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Ma- 
tadi,  seven  and  one-half  miles  distant,  which  place 
we  reach  at  7.30  a.  m.  There  is  a veritable  tropical 
rain  from  9 a.  m.  to  12  m.  Matadi  is  nearly  oppo- 
site Vivi,  which  was  the  base  of  operations  for  Mr. 


NOQUI,  CONGO  (PORTUGUESE) 


213 


Personal  Memoranda. 

Stanley’s  exploration  of  the  Congo  in  1879.  It  is 
the  initial  point  of  the  Congo  Rail  road,  which  is 
completed  and  in  running  order  for  about  thirty- 
live  miles.  There  is  nothing  pleasing  in  the  envi- 
ronments of  the  place.  The  region  surrounding  it 
is  made  up  of  a series  of  rocky  mounds,  and  there 
is  scarcely  any  sign  of  vegetable  life.  The  fare  on 
the  Congo  Railroad,  for  the  thirty-live  miles  of 
its  completion,  is  $10.  The  engineers,  firemen,  and 
all  the  train  hands  are  natives.  Here  for  the  first 
time  in  the  “Dark  Continent”  I hear  the  shrill 
sound  of  the  whistle  of  the  locomotive,  which 
awakes  within  me  an  almost  indescribable  feeling-. 
It  has  just  been  one  month  and  twelve  days  since  I 
heard  the  sound  of  the  whistle  of  a locomotive — a 
sound  which  has  been  familiar  to  my  ears  for  many 
years.  To  bear  its  shrill  notes  in  Africa,  and  on  the 
banks  of  the  mighty  Congo, isindeed  interesting  and 
startling.  I watch  the  departure  and- arrival  of  the 
trains  with  considerable  interest,  and  my  mind  flies 
off  on  a tangent,  so  to  speak,  into  philosophizing  on 
the  possibilities  of  the  future  of  Africa.  Here,  as 
nowhere  else  during  my  voyage  thus  far,  do  I hear 
the  busy  hum  of  revolving  machinery,  and  see  the 
bright  flames  of  the  heated  furnace,  and  hear  the 
stroke  of  the  hammer  beating  out  and  shaping  the 
red-hot  iron.  It  is  a wonderfully  interesting  sight. 
The  railroad  plant  is  quite  extensive.  There  is  a 
good  building  in  which  the  railroad  offices  are  lo- 
cated, a machine  shop,  a round  house,  and  a freight 
shed — all  the  property  of  the  Congo  Railroad  Com- 


214 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


pany,  whose  chief  officers  are  at  Brussels,  Belgium. 
Goods  for  the  Upper  Congo  country  are  brought  to 
this  point  by  ocean  steamers,  where  they  are  un- 
loaded and  transferred  to  the  railroad,  which  car- 
ries them  to  the  point  of  its  completion,  where  they 
are  made  up  into  man  loads  and  transported  by 
carriers  to  their  destination.  Matadi  is  also  quite 
a distributing  point  for  supplies  to  mission  stations 
in  the  Upper  Congo.  It  is  a supply  depot  for  the 
American  Baptist  Missionary  Union,  the  Bilola 
Congo  Mission  Society,  the  Swedish  Mission,  the 
International  Missionary  Alliance,  of  ISTevv  York, 
the  Southern  Presbyterian  Missionary  Society 
(American).  Bishop  Taylor’s  missionaries  on  the 
Upper  Congo  also  receive  at  this  place  what  few 
supplies  are  sent  to  them.  There  are  quite  a num- 
ber of  missionaries  living  at  Matadi,  and  there  is 
a great  deal  of  money  invested  in  missionary  dwell- 
ings and  storehouses.  I confess  my  inability  to 
discern  just  why  there  should  be  so  many  mission- 
aries living  here,  and  why  there  has  been  such  a large 
outlay  of  money  for  the  erection  of  dwellings,  etc., 
when  there  are  no  natives  in  that  immediate  local- 
ity, or  in  places  adjacent  thereto,  to  form  the  sub- 
jects of  missionary  efforts.  The  country  is  so  bar- 
ren and  sterile  as  to  render  it  wholly  undesirable 
for  the  settlement  of  natives.  It  will  be  many  a 
year  before  Matadi  or  the  regions  thereabout  prove 
a fruitful  field  for  missionary  endeavor.  Quite  a 
number  of  missionaries  visit  our  ship  looking  after 
their  cargo  ; among  them  Rev.  J.  Pinnock,  an  intel- 


MATADI,  CONGO  (BELGIAN). 


Personal  Memoranda. 


217 


ligent  native  from  Victoria,  who  is  connected  with 
the  English  Baptist  Missionary  Society.  A Mr.  Hall, 
one  of  the  missionaries  of  the  International  Mission- 
ary Alliance,  embarked  here,  en  route  to  his  home 
in  the  State  of  Maine.  I was  defeated  in  my  inten- 
tion to  go  to  Vivi,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the 
grave  of  Rev.  Mr.  Walruth,  who  went  there  a few 
years  ago  from  Chicago,  111.,  as  one  of  Bishop  Tay- 
lor’s missionaries.  I met  his  mother  and  one  of 
his  sisters  in  Chicago  in  1893,  and  told  them  that 
I anticipated  visiting  the  Congo,  and  should  prob- 
ably go  as  far  as  Vivi ; and  if  so,  that  I would  search 
out  the  grave  of  their  son  and  brother.  The  ther- 
mometer on  this  date  is  80°  on  board  ship,  and  on 
the  18fh  it  is  82.50°  on  board  ship,  with  weather 
fair.  Stopping  time  is  1 day,  7 hours,  and  35  min- 
utes. 

October  18,  2.35  p.  M.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Boma, 
which  place  is  reached  at  6.50  p.  m.  In  nearing 
Boma,  we  run  against  a high  bank,  and  nearly 
crush  a steam  launch  which  foolishly  tries  to  cross 
our  bow,  despite  the  warnings  of  the  pilot.  Our 
ship  careens  heavily  to  one  side,  and  the  passengers 
and  the  crew  are  all  more  or  less  excited.  Fortu- 
nately the  bank  is  formed  of  soft  deposit,  and  we 
slide  off  without  any  difficulty,  and  drop  anchor  on 
the  opposite  side,  near  an  English  trading  place  ad- 
jacent to  Boma,  where  we  remain  until  the  20th, 
discharging  and  receiving  cargo.  Thermometer, 
80°  on  board  ship. 

October  19  I go  ashore,  and  spend  considerable 


218 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


time  in  viewing  the  place  and  its  environments. 
Our  ship  is  anchored  about  a mile  and  a half  east 
of  the  town.  En  route  from  the  ship  to  the  town  I 
pass  by  one  of  those  African  trees  famous  for  their 
short  but  exceedingly  thick  bodies.  It  is  said  that 
it  takes  the  outstretched  arms  of  fourteen  men  to 
encircle  the  one  that  I stop  at  for  a brief  time,  be- 
ing attracted  by  its  gigantic  size.  It  yields  a large, 
elongated  fruit,  called  “ monkey  fruit.”  The  bark 
is  very  thick,  and  I notice  that  quite  a number  of 
persons  had  taken  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to 
carve  their  names  thereon.  Among  the  hundreds 
of  names  that  I see  is  that  of  Rev.  S.  P.  Shephard, 
a colored  man  from  America,  who  is  laboring  as  a 
missionary  among  the  Russia  people  in  the  Upper 
Congo,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Board  of  Missions 
of  the  Southern  Presbyterian  Church.  He  has  out- 
stripped many  others  in  the  height  of  the  point 
where  he  carved  his  name,  and  I found  myself  hu- 
morously ejaculating,  “ Well,  old  fellow,  if  you 
never  write  your  name  anywhere  else,  you  have 
certainly  written  it  here.  Bravo  ! ” On  reaching 
Boma  I start  out  to  inspect  the  chief  objects  of  in- 
terest. The  principal  Government  buildings  and 
the  dwellings  of  the  chief  officials  are  located  on 
an  eminence  about  two  miles  from  the  river  bank, 
and  are  nestled  in  a grove  and  well  shaded  by  the 
overhanging  branches  of  many  stately  trees.  There 
is  a steam  tramway,  or  light,  narrow-gauge  rail- 
road, running  from  the  Government  pier  on  the 
river  bank  to  the  Government  quarters.  The  Gov- 


NATIVE  CEMETERY,  OLD  VIVI,  CONGO. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


221 


ernor’s  residence  is  a very  fine  and  imposing  struct- 
ure. Adjacent  to  it,  and  somewhat  surround- 
ing it,  are  the  picturesque  dwellings  of  the  chief 
officials.  On  the  same  plat  of  ground,  which  in- 
cludes many  acres,  are  a number  of  beautiful  resi- 
dences, the  homes  of  wealthy  traders.  On  my  way 
to  the  Government  grounds  I notice  quite  a number 
of  natives  in  soldiers’  attire  performing  manual  la- 
bor in  grading  elevated  spots,  so  as  to  get  a level 
for  the  extension  of  new  avenues.  I confess  it  is 
not  clear  to  my  mind  why  soldiers  should  be  en- 
gaged in  that  kind  of  service — particularly  where 
there  are  so  many  civilians  who  could  be  obtained 
to  do  the  work.  I also  pass  by  a public  dispensary, 
around  which  a large  number  of  natives  are  gath- 
ered waiting  to  be  served  with  medicine.  A Congo 
soldier  stands  just  outside  the  door,  and  to  me  it 
appears  that  he  is  very  rudely  disposed  toward  the 
afflicted  people.  I notice  that  at  times  he  enforces 
his  command  for  order  by  punching  one  or  two 
persons  with  the  point  of  his  saber.  I visit  the 
Government  drug  store,  or  dispensary,  which  is  lo- 
cated in  a different  building,  within  the  Govern- 
ment grounds  proper,  for  the  purpose  of  purchas- 
ing some  quinine  and  antipyrine.  I find  the  place 
pretty  well  stocked  with  drugs,  and  in  charge 
of  a Belgian  chemist  who  can  speak  but  very  little 
English.  He  is  assisted  by  a native  who  can  speak 
English,  and  who  appears  to  have  some  intelli- 
gence. 

On  my  return  to  the  river  bank  I stop  at  a trad- 


222 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


ing  place  owned  by  a Mr.  Shann,  a native  from 
Sierra  Leone.  He  was  formerly  chief  document 
clerk  in  the  employ  of  the  Congo  Free  State.  He 
proved  highly  efficient  in  this  capacity,  and  was 
very  careful  and  painstaking  in  keeping  track  of 
the  various  documents  in  his  possession,  and  would 
not  allow  any  person  (not  even  the  Governor)  to 
take  a document  from  his  possession  without  re- 
ceipting for  it.  In  course  of  time  one  or  more 
young  Belgians  were  placed  in  the  document  room 
with  him,  for  the  purpose  of  acquainting  themselves 
with  the  details  of  the  work.  After  a time  one  of 
them  was  promoted  over  Mr.  Shanu,  an  act  which 
the  latter  regarded  as  unjust  to  him.  He  seriously 
questioned  the  fairness  of  elevating  the  pupil  above 
his  teacher — a fact  which  he  made  known  to  the 
Governor,  and  made  inquiry  as  to  why  it  was  done. 
The  Governor  replied  that  he  could  not  afford  to 
continue  an  African  as  a principal  over  Europeans 
— a remark  which  led  Mr.  Shanu  to  tender  his  res- 
ignation instanter,  much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  Gov- 
ernor and  to  the  regret  of  all  cognizant  of  the  val- 
ue of  his  superior  service.  During  his  official  con- 
nection with  the  Government  he  was  thrifty,  so 
that  when  he  quit  the  employ  of  the  Government 
he  had  means  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  embark  in 
a commercial  enterprise.  He  is  the  owner  of  a 
large  and  substantial  building  on  the  street  leading 
from  the  river  bank  to  the  Government  quarters, 
which  is  well  stocked  with  a large  variety  of  goods 
suitable  for  the  African  trade.  I do  not  meet  him 


LANDANA  WOMANjAND  BROTHERS.  CABENDA  BOVS. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


225 


personally,  as  he  is  absent  in  England  on  business, 
but  I have  the  pleasure  of  the  acquaintance  of  his 
brother,  who  is  in  charge  at  the  time  that  I call. 

I also  have  the  pleasure  of  the  acquaintance  of  a 
Mr.  G.  T.  Samuel,  a native  from  Lagos,  who  is  also 
engaged  in  trade.  When  I visit  his  place  of  busi- 
ness I find  that  he  is  absent,  being  detained  at  home 
by  indisposition.  Anxious  to  see  him,  I go  to  his 
residence,  which  is  located  just  outside  of  the  Gov- 
ernment grounds.  I find  him  to  be  quite  intelli- 
gent and  well  posted  in  matters  of  trade.  We  con- 
verse freely  about  the  future  of  the  natives,  and  I 
call  his  attention  to  the  ravages  of  the  rum  traffic. 
He  does  not  speak  very  hopefully  of  the  probable 
civilization  of  the  Congo  people.  I incidentally 
inquire  if  it  is  possible  to  obtain  any  curios,  but 
elicit  no  definite  answer. 

October  20,  about  8 a.  m.,  I am  handed  the  follow- 
ing note  by  one  of  the  ship’s  stewards  : 

Rev.  C.  S.  Smith,  M.  D.,  D.  D.:  Bojia,  October  19,  1894. 

Rev.  and  Dear  Sir : It  is  impossible  to  express  bow  much  re- 
gret I feel  for  not  being  able  to  meet  your  desire  for  obtaining 
curios. 

In  spite  of  my  active  efforts  (and  those  of  Mrs.  Samuel),  we 
could  procure  but  few  articles  originated  from  various  parts  of 
Africa,  and  which  we  sincerely  ask  you  to  accept  as  a little 
present.  We  will  be  very  happy  to  hear  from  you  again,  either 
at  Liberia  or  in  America,  and  to  be  able  to  continue  our  corre- 
spondence in  the  latter. 

Wishing  you  bon  voyage , I remain,  Reverend  and  Dear  Sir, 
yours  very  faithfully,  G.  T.  Samuel. 

To  this  polite  note  I reply  with  pleasure,  cheer- 
15 


226 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


fully  and  gratefully  accepting  the  gifts,  which  are 
delivered  to  me  per  messenger. 

We  receive  a large  number  of  natives  as  deck 
passengers  at  Boma,  for  various  points  on  the  West 
Coast.  We  also  receive  three  European  passengers 
— two  first-class,  and  one  second-class.  One  of  the 
first-class  passengers — a Mr.  Wm.  Hoffman — has 
just  completed  a term  of  three  years’  service  as 
Government  Interpreter  for  the  Congo  Eree  State 
Association,  and  is  en  route  home  to  London.  He 
has  a large  collection  of  curios,  a number  of  which 
I purchase.  lie  was  connected  with  Mr.  Stanley 
from  1887  to  1890.  He  is  well  posted  on  Upper 
Congo  people  and  affairs.  He  speaks  very  highly 
of  some  of  the  tribes  with  whom  he  lived  for  a time 
— particularly  the  Aruwimi  people. 

The  general  features  of  the  lower  region  of  the 
Congo  Elver  will  prove  greatly  disappointing  to 
one  who  had  not  read  Mr.  Stanley’s  description  of 
it.  It  is,  as  he  has  described,  barren,  uninviting, 
and  sparsely  populated.  Between  Banana  Point 
and  Bonn  the  country  is  flat  and  clothed  with  an 
intensely  greenish  verdure — a verdure  which,  in  its 
deejvgreen  aspect,  very  strongly  reminds  one  of  the 
verdure  of  Southern  Ireland  in  the  spring.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  Congo,  which  is  in  reality  an  es- 
tuary, is  about  seven  and  a half  miles  wide. 

October  21  (Sunday),  6.45  p.  m.,  we  drop  anchor 
at  St.  Paul  cle  Loando,  which  is  situated  on  a beau- 
tiful bay,  and  is  the  southern  terminus  of  our  voy- 
age. It  is  the  capital  of  the  Portuguese  Province 


BANANA  POINT.  MOUTH  OF  CONGO  RIVER. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


229 


of  Angola,  and  was  founded  in  1468.  It  is  the 
largest  civilized  center  to  be  found  anywhere  on 
the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa.  For 
years  it  has  been  a penal  colony,  to  which  persons 
guilty  of  political  and  other  offenses  have  been 
transported.  The  estimated  European  population 
is  about  16,000.  The  city,  which  is  very  antiquated 
in  its  appearance,  is  slowly  assuming  a modern  as- 
pect. Aside  from  the  Government  buildings,  both 
civil  and  military,  it  can  boast  of  a bank,  public 
parks,  two  markets,  cable  and  telephone  facilities. 
The  donkey,  which  is  to  be  found  in  large  numbers, 
is  used  in  place  of  the  horse,  its  chief  use  being  to 
draw  the  carriages  of  the  wealthy. 

A railroad  leading  to  Chinhocha,  200  miles  dis- 
tant, is  in  successful  operation.  The  intention  is  to 
ultimately  extend  the  railroad  to  Ambraca,  a point 
35  miles  beyond  Chinhocha.  Coffee  is  the  princi- 
pal article  of  export.  Choice  fruits  and  vegetables 
grow  in  abundance,  the  oranges  being  unsurpassed 
in  sweetness  and  flavor. 

But  little,  if  anything,  has  been  done  to  civilize 
and  elevate  the  natives.  Slavery  prevails  in  and 
around  this  place,  and  the  natives  are  largely  held 
in  subjection  as  beasts  of  burden. 

The  Catholic  Religion  prevails,  and  since  the 
abandonment  of  Bishop  Taylor’s  Mission  in  Loan- 
da  there  is  now  no  Protestant  Mission  within  the  pre-  * 
cincts  of  that  ancient  city  to  compete  with  Catholi- 
cism. A somewhat  interesting  institution  of  the  city 
isthe  jail,  many  of  the  inmates  of  which  spend  their 


230 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


time  in  making  fancy  bird  cages,  as  well  as  other 
fancy  articles,  both  for  use  and  ornament. 

These  articles  are  exposed  in  front  of  the  jail, 
with  the  price  attached  to  each,  and  in  this  way 
passers-by  are  enabled  to  obtain  such  articles  as 
they  may  choose  without  any  trouble;  it  is  simply 
take  your  choice,  and  leave  the  price.  Thermom- 
eter, 80°.  Stopping  time,  22  hours  and  35  minutes. 

October  22,  at  1 p.  m.,  to  the  joy  of  all,  the  ship’s 
prow  is  turned  homeward,  and  we  weigh  anchor 
for  Ambriz,  which  place  we  reach  after  seven  hours’ 
steaming,  and  where  we  anchor  all  night. 

On  the  homeward  voyage,  in  addition  to  the 
places  stopped  at  on  the  outward  voyage,  calls  will 
be  made  at  Ambriz,  Ivinsembo,  Musera,  Ambrizette, 
Muculla,  Landana,  Fouta,  Mayumba,  Bibindi,  and 
Rio  del  Ray.  My  notebook  contains  the  following 
brief  references  to  these  several  places: 

October  22,  1 p.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Ambriz, 
which  we  reach  at  8 p.  m.  Anchor  all  night.  Thir- 
ty Europeans  reside  here. 

October  23,  3 p.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Kin- 
sembo,  which  we  reach  at  4 p.  m.  There  are  four- 
teen Europeans  at  this  place,  and  no  deaths  among 
them  in  fourteen  years. 

October  24,  11  a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Musera. 
Fourteen  Europeans  here.  Health  good. 

* October  25,  9.30  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Am- 
brizette, which  place  we  reach  at  12.30  a.  m.  Twen- 
ty Europeans  here.  Only  one  death  among  them 
in  twenty  years.  Here  I meet  a native  from  Ambriz, 


LOANDA  CHIEF.  A LOANDA  OCTOROON. 


Pei's o n a l Me  n i o ra  1 1 da . 


238 


by  the  name  of  King  Augustus  Jones,  who  was  ed- 
ucated at  Lisbon.  He  can  speak  some  English, 
and  I find  him  to  be  quite  interesting  and  wide- 
awake. I give  him  an  engraving  of  the  Bishops  of 
the  African  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  one  of 
President  Cheeseman,  of  Liberia,  for  which  he  ex- 
tends most  profuse  thanks. 

October  26,  11.30  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Mu- 
culla,  which  place  we  reach  at  1.30  p.  m.  Ten  Eu- 
ropeans here.  Health  good. 

Coffee  is  the  chief  article  of  export  from  all  the 
territories  between  Ambriz  and  Muculla,  and  par- 
ticularly of  all  the  Portuguese  Possessions  in  South- 
west Africa. 

October  27,  6 p.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for  Cabenda, 
which  place  we  reach  October  28,  at  7 a.  m.  It  be- 
ing Sunday,  and  the  atmospheric  conditions  being 
most  inviting,  a number  of  the  passengers  go  ashore. 
Our  ship  is  visited  by  a large  number  of  residents, 
and  among  them  five  well-dressed  Portuguese-Af- 
ricans.  Understand,  they  are  Government  officials. 
A young  native  from  Sierra  Leone,  by  the  name  of 
Isaiah  B.  Wilson,  whom  I met  here  on  the  outward 
voyage,  comes  aboard  and  presents  me  with  two 
native  wooden  spoons  and  a stick  of  cocoanut  wood. 
He  is  one  of  twelve  Sierra  Leone  mechanics  who 
are  here  constructing  Government  buildings. 

At  luncheon  I have  an  animated  discussion  with 
the  ship’s  captain  and  some  of  the  passengers  re- 
garding the  Sierra  Leone  and  Lagos  people.  The 
old  charge  of  thievishness  and  worthlessness  is 


234 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


made  against  them.  I defend  them,  and  argue  that 
such  aspersions  reflect  unfavorably  on  British  his- 
tory and  civilization,  as  the  British  have  had  the 
Sierra  Leone  people  in  training  for  over  a hundred 
years.  “It  is  the  policy  of  the  British,”  I remark, 
“ when  they  And  people  savages,  to  try  to  make 
them  men.” 

At  4.30  p.  m.  we  steam  for  Landana,  where  we 
drop  anchor  at  7 p.  m.  We  remain  two  full  days, 
discharging  and  loading  cargo.  This  is  rather  a 
picturesque  place.  The  beach  is  separated  from 
the  mainland  by  the  Chiloango  Biver,  which  is  a 
quiet  stream  about  120  feet  wide  at  its  mouth,  and 
navigable  for  steam  launches  about  forty  miles.  An 
old  Portuguese,  a former  slave-dealer,  has  lived 
here  for  fifty-five  years.  Another  Portuguese  has 
dwelt  in  the  neighborhood  thirty-five  years.  I 
spend  most  of  our  second  day’s  stay  here  ashore, 
in  company  with  the  ship's  surgeon  and  one  of  the 
passengers.  We  accept  an  invitation  to  take  din- 
ner at  an  English  trading  place.  After  dinner  a 
visit  is  made  to  a Catholic  Mission,  a description  of 
which  I have  given  in  Chapter  V.  While  strolling 
along  the  beach  we  gather  a number  of  mango  nuts 
and  “ Florida  Beans.” 

October  31,  9 a.  m.,  we  start  from  Landana  for 
Fouta,  eleven  miles  distant,  which  place  we  reach 
at  12  M.  Two  miles  south  of  Fouta  is  the  river 
Massave,  which  is  the  dividing  line  between  the 
Portuguese  and  French  territories. 

At  4.30  p.  m.  we  depart  for  Black  Point,  twenty 


PART  VIEW  OF  LANDANA  (PORTUGUESE). 


Personal  Memoranda. 


237 


miles  distant,  which  place  we  reach  at  8 p.  m.,  where 
we  anchor  and  remain  all  night.  The  principal 
trader  at  this  point  is  a Portuguese- African,  by  the 
name  of  Antonio  Andre  Maria,  who  was  educated 
at  Loanda.  He  has  a family  consisting  of  a wife 
and  four  children.  One  of  his  sons  is  being  edu- 
cated at  Lisbon.  He  makes  me  a present  of  a very 
tine  piece  of  native  woven  cloth,  a kindness  which 
I reciprocate  by  giving  him  some  engravings,  lith- 
ographs, etc.,  of  eminent  Americans  of  African  de- 
scent. He  is  highly  commended  by  the  ship’s  cap- 
tain as  a most  upright  and  worthy  man. 

November  1,  8 a.  m.,  we  leave  Black  Point  for 
Loango,  where  we  drop  anchor  at  11  a.  m.  The 
German  steamer  “ Gabrate  Woerman  ” and  a small 
Portuguese  schooner  are  at  anchor  here.  We  have 
quite  an  amusing,  and  yet  annoying,  experience. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  this  place  is  in  French 
territory.  To-day  is  a religious  holiday,  and  all  the 
officials,  being  Catholics,  are  engaged  in  celebrat- 
ing the  memory  of  some  patron  saint,  of  that  church. 
Time  and  time  again  our  ship  signals  for  the  health 
officer,  without  whose  inspection  no  one  can  leave 
the  ship  ; neither  can  anyone  come  aboard.  Pro- 
longed delay  tills  the  captain  with  a feeling  of  ex- 
treme wrath,  and  when  at  last  the  Government  of- 
ficial boards  the  ship,  the  captain  refuses  to  either 
send  the  ship’s  papers  ashore  or  to  receive  cargo. 
After  much  cursing,  blustering,  etc.,  an  agreement 
is  reached  by  which  the  ship  can  weigh  anchor  and 
steam  oft  without  the  usual  formality  of  Govern- 


238 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

ment  consent,  which  is  done  in  order  to  avoid  fur- 
ther delay. 

At  3.30  p.  m.  we  steam  for  Mayumba,  forty  miles 
distant.  Remain  here  all  night.  Meet  an  Ameri- 
can by  the  name  of  Carl  Steckelman,  from  Colum- 
bus, Ind.  He  was  at  the  World’s  Fair,  in  charge 
of  a number  of  African  ivory  carvers.  He  reports 
that  the  Bishop  Taylor  Mission  at  this  place  is  about 
to  be  abandoned,  on  account  of  the  missionaries  re- 
ceiving inadequate  support. 

November  2,  2 p.  m.,  we  leave  Mayumba  for  Ny- 
anga,  forty  miles  distant. 

November  3,  6 a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Sette 
Cama.  Rain  all  day. 

November  4,  7 a.  m.,  we  reach  N’gove,  where  we 
remain  until  6 p.  M.,  and  then  steam  for  Cape  Lopez. 

November  5,  7.30  a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Cape 
Lopez,  which  is  in  French  territory.  The  French 
steamer  “ Ville  de  Maelio,”  a stern-wheel  river 
boat,  and  two  tugs  are  in  port.  The  land  is  low- 
lying,  and  the  vegetation  very  dense. 

November  6 we  reach  Gaboon,  where  we  remain 
until  the  afternoon  of  the  7th.  Load  a considera- 
ble quantity  of  camwood. 

November  8 we  call  at  Eloby,  which  place  we 
leave  at  4 p.  M.  for  Batanga. 

November  9,  8 a.  m.,  we  reach  Batanga  and  take 
on  one  passenger  for  Liverpool,  and  leave  imme- 
diately for  Cameroons. 

November  10,  6 a.  m.,  we  drop  anchor  at  Came- 
roons, where  we  remain  until  the  12th. 


CATHOLIC  SCHOOL,  ST,  ANTONIO,  CONGO. 


Pe rs o n a l Mem  oranda. 


241 


November  11  (Sunday)  I visit  the  German  war- 
ship “Hyalene”  for  the  purpose  of  gratifying  the 
desire  to  look  through  a warship.  As  1 cannot 
speak  German,  I get  one  of  King  Bell's  sons  to 
accompany  me.  The  ship  is  manned  with  seven 
guns,  has  a crew  of  eighty-live  persons,  whose  term 
of  service  is  one  year  in  the  tropics.  Here  I meet 
with  a rather  surprising  experience.  To  make  per- 
manent the  results  of  my  observation,  I take  a note- 
book and  pencil  for  the  purpose  of  jotting  them 
down.  As  soon,  however,  as  notebook  and  pencil 
are  brought  into  requisi  tion,  all  eyes  are  fixed  upon 
me,  and  the  marine  who  was  appointed  to  show  me 
through  is  peremptorily  summoned  away;  and, 
while  nothing  directly  is  said  to  me,  I soon  become 
convinced  that  my  notebook  and  pencil  have  awak- 
ened the  apprehension  that  I might  be  a spy.  I 
am  of  the  opinion  that  it  is  not  the  best  policy  to 
expose  notebooks  and  pencils  on  board  warships. 

From  the  warship  I proceed  to  Bell  Town,  where 
I spend  an  hour  in  conversation  with  King  Bell 
relative  to  the  necessity  of  his  people  working.  It 
is  a pleasant,  quiet  day  ; the  sun  is  obscured  by 
clouds,  and  the  atmosphere  somewhat  murky  and 
depressive.  I am  led  to  King  Bell’s  hut  by  one  of 
his  grandsons,  a boy  of  about  thirteen  years  of  age, 
of  a bright  copper  color,  and  of  an  intelligent  ex- 
pression. Upon  entering  the  hut,  which  has  not  a 
single  opening  for  the  admission  of  light,  except 
the  door  through  which  I enter,  and  which  only 
stands  partly  open,  I am  impressed  with  a feeling 
16 


242 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


of  silence  and  solitude  that  is  almost  painful.  For 
the  first  time  in  my  life  I am  spending  a part  of  the 
Sabbath  in  the  hut  of  an  African  king,  the  lineal 
descendant  of  a long  line  of  African  kings,  and  the 
ruler  of  a once  powerful  people.  As  he  speaks  the 
fire  which  kindles  in  his  eyes  is  seen  to  sparkle, 
even  amid  the  almost  unrelieved  darkness  that  sur- 
rounds us.  I tell  him  that  his  young  men  should 
learn  how  to  cultivate  the  soil  systematically,  and 
that  their  hands  should  he  trained  to  all  kinds  of 
Skilled  labor,  so  that  they  can  he  as  useful  in  peace 
as  they  once  were  mighty  in  war.  So  far  as  I can, 
I shall  note  his  reply  in  his  own  language : 

“ My  people  no  work  at  all.  We  no  work  way 
hack  no  time.  We  he  traders.  Before  the  white 
man  come  among  us  we  had  noting  to  buy.  When 
we  be  grown  so  big  as  dat  hoy  [pointing  to  his 
grandson,  who  was  standing  inside  the  door],  we 
wear  no  cloth  ; we  go  naked  all  the  time.  When 
we  be  big  to  marry,  we  put  on  one  leaf,  and  dat  be 
all.  Dis  was  de  way  in  my  fadder’s  time,  my  grand- 
fadder’s  time,  and  all  my  fadder’s  time,  bo  far  back 
as  I no  understand.” 

On  leaving,  King  Bell  presented  me  with  one  of 
the  famous  Cameroons  benches,  or  stools,  carved 
out  of  a single  block  of  wood. 

November  12,  1.30  p.  m.,  we  steam  for  Victoria, 
which  place  is  reached  at  8 p.  M.,  and  where  we  an- 
chor during  the  night.  The  passenger  list  is  re- 
duced by  the  disembarkation  of  two — a German 
missionary  and  a civilized  native. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


243 


November  13,  8.30  a.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  for 
Fernando  Po,  where  we  arrive  at  2 p.  m.  Go  ashore, 
and  visit  the  native  school  taught  by  Rev.Wm.  Bar- 
leycorn. All  the  instruction  is  given  in  the  Span- 
ish language,  such  being  required  by  the  colonial 
laws.  Advantage  was  taken  of  an  opportunity  to 
inspect  the  chapel  belonging  to  the  Primitive  Meth- 
odist Connection,  which  had  heen  recently  com- 
pleted. Am  informed  that  the  services  attending 
the  opening  of  the  chapel  were  highly  successful, 
and  that  the  contributions  amounted  to  $224,  $50 
of  which  was  given  by  Mr.  J.  E.  I).  McCoy,  a civ- 
ilized native.  Have  a brief  conversation  with  Nich- 
olas Kennedy,  a young  native  ; find  him  to  he  quite 
intelligent,  and  very  solicitous  for  the  improvement 
and  welfare  of  his  country.  He  states  that  his  peo- 
ple are  greatly  oppressed  by  the  Spaniards,  and 
that  the  relations  between  the  former  and  the  lat- 
ter are  greatly  strained. 

November  14,  7 a.  m.,  we  reach  Bibindi,  a deso- 
late and  out-of-the-way  place.  The  captain  claims 
that  he  expects  cargo,  but  receives  none,  and  gives 
as  the  reason  that  the  factory  has  been  left  in  charge 
of  a black  man,  who  has  gone  off  to  secure  laborers. 
This  evidently  is  a ruse  to  conceal  the  real  object 
of  his  visit,  viz.,  to  land  a trader  for  a bonus,  in 
addition  to  the  regular  passage  money,  which  of 
course  he  would  quietly  pocket.  Then  it  is  against 
the  unwritten  law  of  a white  man  in  Africa  to 
leave  his  possessions  in  the  sole  charge  of  a black 
man. 


244 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Between  4 and  5 o’clock  a.  m.  we  are  treated  to 
a tropical  rain.  With  all  the  passengers  wondering 
why  the  captain  caused  several  hours’  delay  by  go- 
ing out  of  his  regular  course  to  stop  at  Bibindi,  the 
engines  of  our  ship  begin  to  throb  once  more,  and 
we  steam  for  tbe  river  Rio  del  Ray,  and  enter  its 
mouth  at  1 p.m.  After  an  hour  of  slow  and  cautious 
steaming  we  strike  a sandbar,  and  “ hangup”  until 
the  tide  rises  sufficiently  to  allow  us  free  movement. 

Within  two  hours  we  are  freed,  and  at  5.27  p.  m. 
drop  anchor.  Where?  Ah,  “there’s  the  rub.” 
For  nearly  forty-three  years,  ever  since  I first  nes- 
tled at  my  mother’s  breast,  I have  found  myself 
somewhere,  but  now  I find  myself  at  the  “tail  end 
of  nowhere.”  Here  we  are  on  the  bosom  of  a broad 
and  sluggish  stream,  its  banks  an  unbroken  line  of 
mangrove  swamps,  and  with  no  other  dwelling 
places  in  sight  than  two  factories — a German  and  a 
Swede.  The  ground  which  supports  the  pillars  on 
which  the  buildings  rest  is  “ made  ground  ” — muck 
and  mire  taken  from  tbe  swamps,  in  the  midst  of 
which  the  buildings  set.  For  the  twenty-seven 
miles  which  we  ascend  the  river  there  is  not  a sign 
of  life,  other  than  the  mangrove  swamps,  anywhere 
visible — not  even  a musquito,  fly,  or  gnat.  And 
solitude  ! it  is  like  unto  the  stillness  of  death  itself. 
We  spend  the  night  here,  but  not  in  sleep.  Surely 
the  traders  who  have  the  daring  and  courage  to 
continue  here  are  entitled  to  all  the  wealth  which 
they  may  secure  within  the  region  of  this,  the  “tail 
end  of  nowhere.” 


HIGH  CASTE  ACCRA  PEOPLE.  ACCRA  MEN. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


247 


November  15,  2.26  p.  m.,  we  weigh  anchor  at  Rio 
del  Ray,  and  steam  direct  for  Accra,  where  we  an- 
chor at  1.30  p.  m. 

November  18,  11.25  a.  m.,  we  pass  the  Meridian 
line,  and  begin  to  reckon  time  west  of  Greenwich. 

At  1.30  p.  m,  of  the  same  date  we  drop  anchor  at 
Accra.  Many  amusing  scenes  and  incidents  take 
place  here,  when  the  surfmen  whom  we  took  aboard 
on  the  outward  voyage  make  preparations  to  disem- 
bark. They  are  all  more  or  less  fantastically  arrayed 
in  “ home-made  ” jackets  and  trousers,  of  highly- 
colored  and  large-figured  calico  cloth.  Each  man 
made  his  own  suit  after  his  own  style  and  taste. 
Their  faces  wear  an  exceedingly  happy  smile  when 
they  behold  their  friends  making  their  way  from 
the  beach  to  the  ship.  Greetings,  accompanied 
with  yells  and  gesticulations,  which  they  alone  un- 
derstand, are  freely  exchanged.  For  more  than  six 
weeks,  early  and  late,  under  the  blaze  of  the  trop- 
ical sun,  these  poor  creatures  had  toiled  for  the 
mere  pittance  of  a shilling  a day.  Still  they  bore 
their  burdens  with  seeming  content,  and  did  not 
appear  to  murmur,  even  at  times  when  their  daily 
task  was  increased. 

At  6 p.  m.  we  weigh  anchor  for  the  Kroo  Coast 
and  Monrovia.  The  Kroo  Coast  is  a part  of  the 
Liberian  shore  line,  and  is  the  home  of  the  toiling 
Kroo-boy. 

The  Kroo-boy  is  very  ready  to  listen  to  Christian 
teaching,  but  his  language  is  the  great  hindrance 
to  a communication  of  the  gospel  message  to  him, 


248 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

w hile  bis  own  knowledge  of  tbe  English  tongue  is 
extremely  imperfect.  The  medium  generally  em- 
ployed is  a kind  of  “pidgin  English,”  which  hard- 
ly answers  the  purpose  of  conversing  upon  the  or- 
dinary affairs  of  life.  Consequently,  when  the  sub- 
lime truths  of  the  gospel  are  the  subject,  its  poverty 
and  imperfectness  is  but  too  apparent ; nevertheless, 
some  lasting  impressions  have  doubtless  been  made 
upon  tbe  hearts  of  these  poor,  simple-minded,  hea- 
then servants,  i he  missionary,  indeed,  lias  a choice 
between  speaking  good  English  to  one  of  their 
number,  who  understands  better  than  his  neigh- 
bois,  and  can  translate  into  Ivroo,  and  speaking  in 
broken  English,  such  as  the  Ivroo-boys  them- 
selves use.  The  latter  is  usually  preferred,  as  the 
interpreter  cannot  be  followed,  and  cannot  be  de- 
tected when  he  has  misapprehended  and  misrep- 
resented truth  ; but  the  difficulties  are  very  great 
either  way. 

The  following  is  a specimen  of  Ivroo-boy  English, 
and  is,  as  will  be  seen,  a paraphrase  of  the  “Prod- 
igal Son  : ” 

“One  man  live  for  dem  other  country ; he  catch  two  boy. 

“ Dem  young  boy  he  say  to  him  father,  ‘ I no  fit  to  stop  here  ; 
I fit  to  go  far  ’way.  Give  me  cloth.’ 

“ Him  father  he  feel  sick  for  heart;  he  no  want’m  go.  But 
dem  boy  he  say,  ‘ I go.’ 

“ Dem  boy  he  go  for  road.  He  sleep  plenty  night  for  path. 
Den  he  see  one  town  he  say,  ; I fit  to  stop  here.’ 

“Dem  men  for  dat  town  sabby  [know]  plenty  cheat.  Dem 
boy  he  buy  palm  wine  ; he  buy  gin;  he  buy  pig;  he  give  dem 
men.  Every  night  plenty,  plenty  dance. 

“ One  day  he  look  in  box.  no  see  cloth  ; cloth  finish. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


249 


“ Dem  men  for  town  dey  .say,  ‘ We  no  catch  cloth  for  you ; go 
’way.’ 

“ Dem  boy  he  no  catch  kwanga,  no  catch  plantain ; he  live 
for  die  ! [i.  e.,  he  is  about  to  die] 

“ He  see  one  man  ; he  say,  ‘I  fit  to  work  for  you,  Massa.’ 
Dem  man  he  say,  ‘All  right.  Pigs  dere,  live  for  field  ; go 
keep’m.’ 

“Dem  boy  lie  go;  he  see  pig’s  chop  [pig’s  food];  him  turn- 
mack  too.  much  sick  [faint  with  hunger];  he  chop’m  [ate 
some]. 

“Dem  boy  he  say,  ‘All  dem  Kroo-boy  [servants]  for  my  fa- 
ther catch  plenty  chop.  I no  fit  to  stop  here.  S’pose  I stop 
here,  den  I live  for  die’  [I  shall  die]. 

“ He  sleep  plenty  nights  for  road  ; den  he  see  dem  house  for 
him  father.  Him  father  he  look,  he  look,  he  say,  ‘My  boy  he 
live  for  come  ’ [just  coming], 

“ He  run  plenty  ; he  look  dat  boy ; he  kiss’m. 

“ Dem  boy  he  say  to’m  father,  ‘ I be  bad  too  much ; I no  be 
chile  for  you  any  more.  I fit  to  be  Kroo-boy  [servant]  for  you.’ 

“Him  father  he  say  to  dem  boy,  ‘ You  come  ’long.’. 

“ Dem  father  he  tell  dem  Kroo-boy,  ‘ You  go  catch  calf.  Make 
plenty  chop  [food].  You  sabby  [know]  dis  boy  come  hack? 
All  same  s’pose  he  come  back  from  grave.  We  fit  to  dance 
plenty  to-night.’  ” 

November  19-22,  at  sea,  when  on  the  latter  date, 
at  8.30  A.  m.,  we  reach  Monrovia,  the  capital  of  the 
Republic  of  Liberia,  where  I disembark,  and  re- 
main until  December  2. 

The  history  of  Liberia  lias  not  yet  been  written — 
perhaps  never  will  be.  I am  indebted  to  Mr.  J. 
Ormond  Wilson,  Secretary  of  the  American  Colo- 
nization Society,  for  the  following  historical  ac- 
count of  the  founding  of  Liberia  : 

On  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  between  the  fourth  and  eighth 
degrees  of  latitude  north  of  the  equator,  lies  a little  country 


250 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


whose  brief  history  is  full  of  remarkable  interest  and  signifi- 
cance— the  Republic  of  Liberia. 

If  we  search  for  the  original  purpose  in  founding  this  African 
state,  we  shall  find  in  this,  as  in  many  other  important  human 
enterprises,  that  it  was  complex.  At  that  time  Negro  slavery 
was  a potent  factor  in  the  industrial  and  political  economy  of 
a large  portion  of  our  country,  and  was  not  only  fostered  by 
state  laws,  but  was  recognized  by  the  National  Constitution  and 


protected  by  National  statutes.  The  individual  motives  in- 
volved in  this  movement  were  various: 

To  establish  a state  on  the  coast  of  Africa  which  eventually 
should  become  a powerful  instrumentality  in  Christianizing 
and  civilizing  the  Dark  Continent ; 

To  secure  a place  where  the  free  people  of  color  in  the 
United  States  could  have  a fair  and  full  opportunity  to  develop 
their  highest  capacity ; 


INSIDE  VIEW  OF  ARUWIMI  SHIELD 


OUTSIDE  VIEW  OF  ARUWIMI  SHIELD. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


253 

To  provide  a practicable  way  for  the  gradual  emancipation 
of  all  the  slaves  in  the  United  States,  and  thus  to  remove  a great 
national  evil ; 

To  relieve  the  country  of  a class  of  people  not  homogeneous 
or  desirable ; 

To  strengthen  the  institution  of  slavery  by  ridding  the  slave 
states  of  an  obnoxious  and  dangerous  element  in  slave  com- 
munities. 

From  the  first,  however,  the  higher  motives  very  largely 
predominated,  and  they  inspired  the  zeal  and  controlled  the 
action  of  the  leaders  who  founded  Liberia,  and  ever  since  have 
labored  to  promote  her  welfare. 

It  was  on  the  21st  day  of  December,  1816,  now  more  than 
seventy-seven  years  ago,  that  a little  band  of  philanthropic 
men  met  in  Washington  and  organized  a society  having  for  its 
object  to  colonize,  with  their  consent,  the  free  people  of  color 
of  the  United  States  in  Africa,  or  such  other  places  as  might  be 
deemed  expedient.  Among  the  fifty  original  members  of  the 
American  Colonization  Society  are  to  be  found  names  that  have 
a prominent  place  in  the  history  of  our  country-— Henry  Clay, 
Daniel  Webster,  Bushrod  Washington,  John  Randolph  of 
Roanoke,  Francis  S.  Ivey,  William  Meade,  Robert  Finley,  Elias 
B.  Caldwell,  and  others.  The  list  of  names  with  the  original 
signatures  is  still  preserved  in  the  archives  of  the  Society. 

There  was  at  once  an  encouraging  response  to  the  call  of  the 
Society ; its  membership  increased ; co-operative  state,  county, 
and  local  socie1  ies  in  all  sections  of  the  country  sprang  into  exist- 
ence, and  liberal  contributions  began  to  flow  into  its  treasury. 
The  Government  of  the  United  States,  seeking  a way  to  provide 
for  the  slaves  whom  it  had  recaptured  and  brought  into  its 
ports,  in  its  efforts  to  exterminate  that  monster,  the  foreign 
slave  trade,  joined  hands  with  the  Society. 

In  December,  1821,  Lieut.  Robert  F.  Stockton,  LT.  S.  N., 
agent  of  the  United  States  Government,  and  Dr.  Ely  Ayres, 
agent  of  the  American  Colonization  Society,  obtained,  by  pur- 
chase from  King  Peter  and  other  African  chiefs,  Cape  Mount- 
surado  and  a surrounding  tract  of  country,  eligibly  situated  on 
the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  between  the  fifth  and  sixth  degrees  of 


254 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


north  latitude  ; and  in  January,  1822,  a small  company  of  Ne- 
groes from  the  United  States,  who  a short  time  before  had  been 
temporarily  left  at  Sierra  Leone,  were  settled  there. 

The  Colony  of  Liberia,  thus  commenced,  grew  in  numbers, 
enlarged  its  territories  by  repeated  purchases  and  treaties,  and 
was  managed  and  controlled  by  the  American  Colonization  So- 
ciety down  to  1847,  when,  with  the  consent  of  the  Society,  it  de- 
clared its  independence  and  established  a national  government, 
republican  in  form,  and  modeled  after  that  of  the  United  States, 
from  whence  most  of  the  colonists  had  come. 

Successive  additions  were  made  to  its  territories,  until  they 
reached  from  the  River  Gallinas  on  the  northwest,  to  the  Riv- 
er San  Pedro  on  the  southeast,  a distance  of  six  or  seven  hun- 
dred miles,  and  extended  back  from  the  sea  coast  some  two 
hundred  miles  or  more  to  the  Kong  Mountains.  It  is  true  that 
a few  years  ago  this  territory  was  encroach  ed  upon  a little  on  the 
northwest  by  England,  and  that  France  is  now  attempting  to 
appropriate  a portion  of  it  on  the  southeast  and  east;  yet 
Liberia  still  stands  there  on  the  coast,  in  front  of  and  en- 
circled by  the  great  River  Niger,  which  we  hope  at  some  day 
may  flow  throughout  its  long  course  entirely  within  her  bor- 
ders. 

The  following  is  a correct  delimitation  of  the 
present  boundaries  of  Liberia:  On  the  northwest 
it  is  separated  from  the  British  Colony  of  Sierra 
Leone  by  the  Manna  River;  on  the  southwest 
from  the  French  territory  by  the  Cavalla  River, 
which  makes  its  shore-line  by  approximate  meas- 
urement 320  miles.  The  delimitation  of  its  east- 
ern or  interior  boundary  has  not  yet  been  fixed. 
By  the  terms  of  the  late  treaty  with  France  the 
statement  is  warranted  that  it  now  has  an  average 
width  of  about  150  miles,  giving  it  an  approxi- 
mate area  of  48,000  square  miles ; and  in  compar- 
ative terms  about  the  size  of  England,  whose  area 


Personal  Memoranda. 


255 


is  computed  to  be  nearly  51,000  square  miles. 
England,  with  its  51,000  square  miles,  sustains  a 
population  of  27,560,000,  which  is  a fraction  above 
500  to  the  square  mile.  It  is  reasonable  to  infer 
that  a purely  agricultural  country  cannot  sustain 
comfortably  more  than  one-tentli  of  the  estimated 
population  of  England.  Assigning  a population 
of  50  per  square  mile  to  Liberia  (which  is  equiva- 
lent to  eight  homesteads  of  eighty  acres  each, 
reckoning  six  persons  to  each  family),  and  accept- 
ing its  approximate  area  of  48,000  square  miles  as 
correct,  Liberia  is  only  capable  of  sustaining  a 
population  of  2,304,000.  This  estimate  is  based 
upon  the  assumption  that  its  entire  superficial  area 
consists  of  arable  land.  It  will  be  safe  to  reduce 
the  estimate  fully  one-fifth,  so  as  to  allow  for  un- 
arable land,  such  as  swamps,  etc.  It  will  be  well 
for  those  who  are  clamoring  for  the  millions  of 
American  citizens  of  African  descent  to  emigrate 
to  Liberia  to  carefully  study  these  figures. 

Liberia  is  divided  into  four  counties  : Mountsu- 
rado,  Sinoe,  Bassa,  and  Maryland. 

The  chief  articles  of  export  are  coffee  (about  1,- 
000,000  pounds  annually),  rubber,  palm  oil,  palm 
kernels,  and  pissava.  A few  years  ago  the  conces- 
sion of  the  rubber  industry  of  tbe  entire  country 
was  sold  to  an  English  company  for  $100,000  for  a 
period  of  twenty  years. 

Within  the  past  two  years  the  Hew  York  Colo- 
nization Society  has  inaugurated  a plan  of  great 
practical  value  to  satisfy  itself  as  to  the  natural  re- 


256 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


sources  ot  Liberia,.  It  has  sent  there  a skilled 
scientist,  Prof.  0.  F-  Cook,  and  an  assistant,  to  lo- 
cate and  develop  an  experimental  farm. 

The  following  extracts  are  gleaned  from  Pro- 
fessor Cook's  second  report  to  the  Society  : 

The  great  mortality  among  missionaries  and  others  a few 
weeks  after  arrival  in  the  country  is  due  almost  entirely  to 
ignorance,  carelessness,  and  foolish  theories.  Many  appear  pos- 
sessed of  an  idea  that  their  lease  of  life  is  especially  secure, 
siuce  they  proceed  with  entire  disregard  of  even  the  simplest 
precautions  and  remedies.  Over  half  the  white  mortality  in 
Monrovia  during  recent  years  has  been  among  “ faith  ” mis- 
sionaries. So  manifestly  unfair  is  it  that  the  interests  of  the 
country  should  suffer  from  reports  of  unnecessary  deaths,  and 
so  fatal  would  the  doctrines  of  these  missionaries  be  if  they 
should  be  adopted  in  Liberia,  that  the  Government  would  be 
eminentfy  justified  in  excluding  them  from  the  country. 

On  the  farm  proper  about  sixty  acres  of  forest  were  cut 
down,  a small  house  built,  and  a considerable  number  of  pine- 
apple, plantain,  banana,  and  coffee  trees  planted.  Care  was 
also  taken  to  plant  an  assortment  of  the  fruits  of  the  country, 
bread  fruit,  pawpaw,  lime,  cocoanut,  and  mango  plum,  so  that 
future  extensions  of  the  work  may  proceed  under  comparative- 
ly favorable  conditions. 

The  house  is  very  small — 14  by  18  feet — but  will  serve  as  a 
shelter,  there  being  no  civilized  dwelling  within  several  miles. 
The  difficulty  of  clearing  away  the  forest,  building,  and  plant- 
ing, is  something  which  can  scarcely  be  realized  by  those  who 
have  seen  forests  only  in  temperate  America.  The  amount  of 
wood  which  was  necessary  to  burn  up  in  making  the  small 
clearing  where  the  house  stands  was  amazing. 

The  timbers  for  the  house  were  hewed  from  trees  in  the  for- 
est, and  the  boards  sawed  by  native  “ sawyer  men,” as  they  are 
called.  The  most  available  roofing  material  consists  of  large 
corrugated  sheets  of  zinc.  These  were  bought  at  Monrovia, 
taken  to  White  Plains  in  a boat,  and  thence  ten  miles  to  Mt. 
Coffee  by  native  carriers, 


Personal  Memoranda. 


257 


The  house  is  built  ou  a hill  140  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river,  which  it  overlooks,  as  well  as  a vast  landscape  of  prime- 
val forests.  In  one  sense,  at  least,  we  are  an  outpost  of  civil- 
ization. 

Geologically  a large  part  of  the  farm  consists  of  the  iron  forma- 
tion which  is  the  native  soil  of  the  Liberian  coffee  tree.  In  ad- 
dition to  this  are  represented  nearly  all  the  soils  of  the  section, 
the  lower  and  more  level  land  along  the  river  being  well  adapt- 
ed to  sugar  cane,  rice  eddoes,  and  sweet  potatoes.  Such  crops 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  river  are  likely  at  present  to 
suffer  from  the  hippopotami,  but  these  will  no  doubt  disappear 
before  the  advance  of  civilization.  They  are  no  longer  found 
in  the  river  below,  but,  according  to  the  natives,  they  are  nu- 
merous farther  up. 

The  name  “ Mt.  Coffee”  is  applied  not  only  to  the  “moun- 
tain,” a heavily-wooded  hill  about  320  feet  high,  but  to  the 
cluster  of  surrounding  hills,  including  an  area  of  several 
square  miles.  The  whole  region  has  excellent  drainage 
and  no  swamps,  is  adapted  to  coffee-raising,  and  is  so 
sparsely  populated  by  natives  that  it  might  be  settled  at 
once  by  emigrants,  could  the  question  of  transportation  be 
practically  solved. 

Inquiries  among  the  natives  indicated  that  it  would  be  pos- 
sible to  secure  laborers  in  some  quantity,  though  it  would  not 
be  wise  to  depend  entirely  on  that  source  of  labor  supply.  The 
African  native  is  usually  too  independent  of  civilization  to 
submit  to  constant  woi’k.  The  supply  of  labor  is  sometimes 
scarcely  equal  to  the  demand,  and  for  any  considerable  increase 
of  civilization  will  prove  inadequate,  although  the  introduction 
of  beasts  of  burden,  steamboats,  and  labor-saving  machinery 
will  render  the  present  force  of  natives  many  times  more  ef- 
fective. 

Monrovia  runs  east  and  west,  and  is  situated  on 
an  elevation  which  terminates  westwardly  into  what 
is  known  as  Cape  Mountsurado,  a most  eligible  site, 
if  improved,  for  Government  buildings,  such  as 
forts,  hospitals,  etc.  I estimate  the  population  of 
17 


258 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

Monrovia  to  be  about  1,200,  which  includes  only  Li- 
berians, or  civilized  people,  living  in  houses  of  Eu- 
ropean style  of  architecture.  Krootown,  which  is 
divided  from  Monrovia  by  a small  lagoon,  spanned 
by  a foot-bridge,  contains  a population  of  from  4000 
to  5000.  Monrovia  is  well  laid  out,  the  streets  being- 
broad  and  regular.  The  houses  of  the  Liberians 
are  constructed  either  of  brick  or  wood.  There  are 
54  of  the  former  and  142  of  the  latter.  I made  it  a 
point  to  count  every  house,  as  I wanted  to  be  cer- 
tain in  respect  to  whatever  items  of  information  I 
might  decide  to  publish  in  regard  to  Monrovia. 
The  number  ot  shops  and  trading  places  of  every 
kind  and  description  is  thirty-five.  Five  of  the 
shops  belong  to  Europeans,  of  whom  there  are 
about  twenty-five  in  Monrovia.  The  bulk  of  the 
business  is  done  by  German,  Dutch,  and  Swedish 
traders.  Gen.  R.  A.  Sherman,  Henry  Cooper  & 
Son,  Moore  & Johnson,  and  a Mr.  Grant  are  the 
leading  Liberian  traders  in  Monrovia. 

The  Methodists,  Baptists,  Presbyterians,  and 
Episcopalians  each  have  a church,  the  buildings 
being  substantial  and  in  good  condition.  The  Li- 
berian College  and  the  Methodist  Seminary  are  the 
two  leading  educational  institutions. 

The  Executive  Mansion  is  a large  and  substan- 
tial building,  well  kept  and  inviting  in  appearance. 
I had  the  pleasure  of  an  interview  with  his  Excel- 
lency, J.  J.  Cheesemau,  President  of  the  Republic 
of  Liberia.  I also  was  favored  with  an  introduc- 
tion to  Gen.  R.  A.  Sherman,  Secretary  of  War,  and 


MONROVIA,  LIBERIA. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


261 


Acting  Secretary  of  the  Navy;  Hon.  Arthur  Bar- 
clay, Postmaster  General,  and  Acting  Secretary  of 
State;  Hon.  Williams,  Secretary  of  the  Treas- 

ury; and  Hon.  U.  A.  Moore,  Secretary  of  the  Inte- 
rior. 

There  are  no  public  monuments,  but  there  is  a 
private  one  erected  to  the  memory  of  ex-President 
Roberts  by  his  widow.  This  monument  stands  on 
an  elevation  at  the  intersection  of  two  streets,  of 
which  Ashman  is  one.  Through  the  courtesy  of  B. 
Mathus,  a carpenter,  who  went  from  Tennessee  to 
Liberia  in  1862,  I was  enabled  to  make  the  follow- 
ing approximate  size  of  the  monument:  Base,  6 
feet,  7 inches  square,  and  3 feet,  9 inches  high. 
Height  of  shaft,  11  feet,  9 inches.  The  following 
are  the  inscriptions  : East  side — “ Sacred  to  the 
memory  of  Joseph  Jenkins  Roberts,  first  Presi- 
dent of  the  Republic  of  Liberia.”  Above  and  be- 
neath this  inscription  are  Masonic  emblems.  North 
side — “Born  at  Norfolk,  Va.,  U.  S.  A.,  March  15, 
1809;  arrived  in  Liberia  March  18, 1829.”  Beneath 
this,  encircled  in  a wreath,  is  “July  26,  1847,” 
which  is  the  date  of  the  founding  of  the  Liberian 
Republic.  West  side — “ Erected  as  a tribute  of  sor- 
row and  affection  by  his  deeply  afflicted  widow, 
Jane  Rose.”  Above  this  are  a sword,  scales,  sand- 
glass, and  Bible.  Beneath  the  Bible  is  a wreath. 
South  side — “Departed  this  life,  trusting  in  the 
Savior,  at  Monrovia,  February  24, 1876.  His  noble 
deeds  follow  him.”  Above  these  words  are  em- 
blems of  African  produce  ; beneath  them  an  ocean 


262 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


harbor  scene,  with  a vessel  at  anchor  and  a plow 
on  shore.  Encircled  in  a wreath  are  the  ever-mem- 
orable  words,  “ The  love  of  liberty  brought  us 
here.” 

In  the  Government  Square  is  a marble  slab  bear- 
ing the  inscription,  “ To  the  memory  of  Rev.  Eli- 
jah Johnson.  Born  June  11,  1789.  Died  March 
23,  1849.  Native  of  New  Jersey,  U.  S.  A.  He 
emigrated  in  the  ship  ‘ Elizabeth  ’ in  1820.  Was 
among  the  sufferers  at  Sherbro.  One  of  the  heroic 
band  who  under  the  noble  Ashman  defended  Mon- 
rovia December  1, 1823.  Pious,  prudent,  patriotic, 
and  brave,  he  held  with  honor  responsible  positions 
until  his  death.  One  of  the  signers  of  the  Declara- 
tion of  Liberian  Independence.” 

It  is  said  of  him  that  when  Monrovia  was  at- 
tacked by  the  savage  natives  December  1, 1823,  and 
when  the  small  band  of  civilized  persons  was  about  to 
be  overcome,  that  he  signaled  a British  vessel  which 
was  in  sight  for  help;  and  that  when  the  captain  and 
part  of  the  crew  made  their  appearance  on  shore, 
and  offered  the  despairing  defenders  assistance  pro- 
vided they  would  allow  the  British  flag  to  be  hoist- 
ed, that  he  refused  by  saying  that  it  would  be  eas- 
ier for  them  to  whip  the  natives  than  to  take  down 
the  English  flag  if  they  once  allowed  it  to  be  hoisted. 

In  connection  with  this  event,  it  is  narrated  that 
after  the  captain  and  his  comrades  of  the  British 
ship  had  retired,  the  natives  renewed  their  attack 
with  increased  vigor,  and  caused  the  defenders  to 
flee  in  consternation  from  their  last  stronghold.  A 


MONUMENT  TO  EX-PRESIDENT  ROBERTS,  MONROVIA. 


THE'EXECUTIVE  MANSION,  MONROVIA. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


265 


cannon  which  they  were  forced  to  desert  was  sur- 
rounded by  the  natives,  who  were  anxious  to  learn 
how  it  worked,  so  as  to  turn  it  upon  the  fleeing  de- 
fenders. Among  those  who  did  not  flee  was  a Mrs. 
Matilda  Newport,  who  was  standing  near  where 
the  gun  was  mounted,  apparently  composed,  smok- 
ing a pipe,  and  who  was  asked  by  the  natives  to 
show  them  how  to  work  the  gun.  This  she  readily 
consented  to  do — not  for  their  instruction,  however, 
but  for  their  destruction.  After  stationing  all  the 
natives  in  front  of  the  cannon,  she  puffed  vigor- 
ously at  her  pipe  until  it  glowed  with  tire,  which 
she  used  to  “set  off’”  the  cannon,  the  effect  of 
which  was  to  scatter  the  natives  like  chaff  before 
the  wind,  and  thus  saved  Monrovia  to  Liberia  and 
Liberia  to  the  world.  This  memorable  occurrence 
is  annually  celebrated  December  1. 

There  are  three  public  buildings — the  Executive 
Mansion,  the  Legislative  Hall,  and  the  Courthouse. 
The  Legislative  Hall  is  in  fair  condition,  and  appar- 
ently cleanly  kept.  Its  dimensions  are  approximate- 
ly 53  feet  long  by  40  feet  wide,  and  is  the  place  of  the 
assembling  of  the  Legislature,  which  meets  annually, 
and  consists  of  eight  Senators  and  thirteen  Repre- 
sentatives. The  office  of  the  Secretary  of  State  is 
located  on  the  second  floor.  The  President’s  resi- 
dence, or  Executive  Mansion,  has  been  previously 
noted. 

The  principal  streets  run  east  and  west,  and  are 
named  Riverside,  Broad,  and  Ashman.  Nearly  all 
the  shops  are  located  on  Riverside  Street. 


266 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

There  is  a public  Museum  and  Library,  which 
was  opened  July  26,  1894.  I present  to  the  Li- 
brary 55  volumes,  the  works  of  American  authors 
of  African  descent,  and  as  an  expression  of  appre- 
ciation the  officials  in  charge  tender  me  a public 
dinner,  which  is  attended  by  several  state  digni- 
taries and  a number  of  leading  citizens.  It  is 
given  at  the  spacious  residence  of  Hon.  U.  A. 
Moore,  Secretary  of  the  Interior. 

I met  four  persons  in  Monrovia  whom  I had  pre- 
viously known — Prof.  Alfred  B.  King,  one  of  the 
Liberian  Commissioners  to  the  World’s  Fair  ; Rev. 
S.  J.  Campbell ; Miss  Georgia  L.  Patton,  M.  D.,  a 
graduate  of  Meharry  Medical  College,  Nashville, 
Tenn.;  and  Mr.  R.  L.  Stewart,  of  the  same  city. 
The  latter  is  engaged  in  missionary  work  in  con- 
nection with  the  Baptist  Church.  I find  I have 
made  a note  of  the  three  following  persons  whom 
I had  not  previously  met : Miss  Mary  L.  Sharpe, 
of  Mansfield,  Pa.,  who  went  to  Liberia  in  1879; 
has  been  home  twice,  staying  four  months  each 
time;  was  supported  by  the  Missionary  Society  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  from  1879  to  1883  ; 
since  then  has  been  self-supporting.  Hon.  I.  S. 
Herring,  Judge  of  the  Probate  Court  of  Bassa 
County,  who  won  the  prize  for  palm  oil  at  the 
World’s  Fair,  Chicago,  1893,  and  was  the  first  to 
introdueethe  palm  kernel  industry  in  Liberia.  Mr. 
B.  Matl  ms,  a carpenter  who  went  from  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Washington  College,  about  eight  miles 
from  Jonesboro,  Tenn.,  U.  S.  A.,  to  Liberia, in  1862. 


MOUNTSURADO  RIVER.  MONROVIA. 
CO 


GEN.  R.  A.  SHERMAN’S  PLACE,!  MONROVIA. 


Person  al  Mernoran da. 


269 


He  was  emancipated  by  bis  master,  who  persuaded 
him  to  go  to  Liberia. 

The  Monrovians,  in  a legal  sense,  are  strict  Sab- 
batarians, as  they  uphold  a law  which  prohibits  the 
performance  of  any  kind  of  manual  labor  within 
the  municipality  oil  Sunday.  However,  I heard  it 
intimated  that  in  an  emergency  ships  can  discharge 
or  load  cargo  by  securing  a special  permit.  There 
are  no  telegraph  or  banking  facilities,  no  national 
currency  ; nor  is  there  a public  park,  a market,  a 
theater,  or  an  amusement  hall.  I refer  to  the  ab- 
sence of  a theater,  or  amusement  hall,  not  because 
I am  an  advocate  of  such,  but  for  the  reason  that 
the  present  status  of  the  civilized  world  seems  to 
indicate  that  the  means  for  public  amusement  are 
a necessary  adjunct  to  a live  and  progressive  com- 
munity. The  Liberian  Gazette , issued  monthly,  is 
the  only  newspaper  published  in  the  Republic 
The  statement  that  there  are  no  saloons  in  Monro- 
via is  true,  though  all  the  European  trading  houses 
sell  wines  and  liquors.  The  inference,  tnerefore, 
that  prohibition  prevails  here,  is  not  correct. 

While  in  Monrovia  I was  informed  by  a mem- 
ber of  the  Liberian  Cabinet  that  the  present  pop- 
ulation of  Liberia  is  roughly  estimated  at  200,000 
— 18,000  Liberians,  or  civilized  people,  and  172,000 
natives,  or  uncivilized  people.  The  voting  popu- 
lation of  Liberia  (only  civilized  persons  being  al- 
lowed to  exercise  the  right  of  suffrage)  is  estimated 
at  1,600,  which,  according  to  the  American  meth- 
od of  computing  statistics,  viz.,  counting  each  voter 


270 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

as  representing  five  persons,  would  give  Liberia  a 
civilized  population  of  only  8,000.  The  voting 
population  of  Liberia,  therefore,  does  not  justify 
the  claim  of  a civilized  population  of  18,000. 

As  to  Liberian  affairs  in  general  1 do  not  feel 
warranted  in  expressing  an  opinion,  since  I did  not 
visit  any  part  of  the  country  outside  of  Monrovia. 
The  late  Treaty  with  France,  which  binds  Liberia 
not  to  alienate  any  part  of  the  territories  which 
were  “recognized  to  her”  by  the  convention  that 
formulated  the  Treaty,  has  seemingly  discouraged 
not  a few  Liberians.  These  evidently  surmise  that, 
by  the  terms  of  Article  V.  of  the  Treaty,  Liberia 
has  virtually  become  a French  Protectorate.  The 
citizens  of  Maryland  County  were  especially  active 
in  opposing  the  ratification  of  the  Treaty  by  the  Li- 
berian Senate.  My  impressions  in  reference  to 
the  affairs  of  Liberia  in  general  are  fully  stated  in 
the  following  extracts  from  an  editorial  in  the 
Weekly  Record , published  at  Lagos,  West  Africa: 

Liberia,  as  representing  negro  repatriation  and  the  result  of 
it,  is  an  important  factor  in  the  political  problem  of  West  Afri- 
ca, forming,  as  it  does,  the  nucleus  of  a momentum  destined  to 
exercise  a most  potent  influence  upon  the  country  and  people. 
The  necessity  of  an  independent  Christian  negro  community  in 
West  Africa,  not  only  as  a fact,  but  as  a factor  in  the  activities 
of  the  age,  must  be  apparent  to  every  thinking  mind;  and  the 
fact  that  the  negro  Republic  has  survived  vicissitudes,  many  of 
which  were  sufficient  to  overwhelm  it,  would  seem  to  point  to 
its  being  designed  for  some  especial  purpose  for  which  it  is,  as  it 
were,  providentially  preserved.  This  circumstance,  while  tend- 
ing to  intensify  interest  in  Liberia,  should  also  serve  to  awaken 
its  citizens  to  a sense  of  the  great  responsibility  devolved  upon 


Personal  Memoranda. 


271 


them  of  organizing  and  developing  an  enlightened  system  of  in- 
dependent government,  and  should  stimulate  them  to  the  en- 
deavor to  make  an  honorable  record  for  the  possibilities  of  an 
enlightened  negro  nationality. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  in  the  past  policy  of  Liberia  there 
appears  to  have  been  wanting  the  idea  which  should  have 
formed  the  leading  principle  of  its  government — that  of  identi- 
fication and  assimilation  with  the  native  tribes,  and  co-opera- 
tion with  them  in  building  up  a nationality  ; but,  instead  of 
this,  the  idea  that  prevailed  with  the  colonists  in  America  with 
regard  to  the  native  Indians  appears  to  have  gained  ascendency 
with  the  Liberians,  and  has  caused  them  to  regard  the  natives 
as  aliens  and  induced  a feeling  of  estrangement  toward  them, 
blended  with  the  foolish  hope  or  expectation  that  they  would 
be  exterminated  as  were  the  Indians  in  America,  and  that  their 
places  would  be  rapidly  supplied  by  accessions  from  the  United 
States ; but  it  is  evident  from  events  now  transpiring  in  Amer- 
ica that  the  intelligent  and  enterprising  negro  has  no  intention 
of  leaving  that  country,  with  its  possibilities — at  least  for  mate- 
rial growth  and  the  advantages  for  intellectual  progress,  a con- 
dition of  things  to  which  their  labors  have  largely  contributed 
— to  come  to  a primitive  country,  where  everything  is  to  be  done 
without  the  aid  of  facilities  supplied  by  an  advanced  civilization, 
inasmuch  as  for  some  reason  or  other  Liberians  have  thought 
it  wise  to  exclude  from  their  country  the  advantages  of  capital. 

The  feeling  of  alienation  from  the  aboriginal  population  is 
deeply  deplored  by  the  thinking  men;  but  it  has,  nevertheless, 
unfortunately  shaped  and  is  still  shaping  the  policy  of  the  na- 
tion. Some  of  them  refer  with  an  unpardonable  vanity  or  pride 
to  their  conflict  with  the  natives,  and  their  superiority  over  them, 
which  they  have  gained  by  the  appliances  of  civilization.  The 
repugnance  of  Liberians  to  the  admission  of  capital  is  founded 
upon  the  erroneous  idea  that  whatever  tends  to  improve  their 
material  condition  will  reduce  their  political  importance.  This, 
however,  is  the  bugbear  of  the  politicians,  who  regard  office  for 
themselves  as  the  summum  bonum  of  life,  and  are  afraid  of  any 
influence  which  will  deliver  the  people  from  the  spell  of  their 
sinister  manipulations. 


272 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 

We  cannot  afford  to  look  with  indifference  upon  Liberia. 
Her  influence,  both  in  the  interior  and  on  the  coast,  has  been 
far  more  potent  in  behalf  of  civilization  than  she  is  aware  of. 
Many  of  her  youth,  both  colonial  and  aboriginal,  wander  away 
to  different  parts  of  the  coast,  and  bear  with  them  the  elements 
of  civilization.  Kroomen  brought  up  in  the  families  of  Liberi- 
ans show  marked  superiority,  when  compared  with  those  who 
have  not  had  such  advantages. 

The  neglect  of  the  payment  of  the  Liberian  loan  of  1871  is 
the  greatest  drawback  to  foreign  influence  in  behalf  of  the  Re- 
public. With  interest  unpaid  for  years,  the  capital  has  amount- 
ed to  an  enormous  sum  ; but  we  believe  that  this  very  debt,  if 
the  Liberians  had  among  them  financiers  who  knew  how  to 
utilize  it,  might  be  made  the  instrument  of  great  prosperity  for 
the  Republic  A vast  extent  of  coast  and  wide  domain  in  the 
interior  should  afford  the  means  for  the  easy  settlement  of  the 
liability,  which  is  less  than  a quarter  of  a million,  and  which 
after  all  is  but  a paltry  amount  for  a nation. 

Outsiders  who  are  by  no  means  unfriendly  critics  of  the  Re- 
public think  that  the  machinery  of  the  government  is  rather  too 
ponderous  for  a young  nation,  causing  expenditures  which,  if 
applied  to  public  improvement,  would  relieve  the  Republic  of 
what  appears  to  the  most  friendly  eye  not  only  as  an  incongru- 
ity, but  an  inconvenient  and  disastrous  top-heaviness. 

Touching  the  oft-repeated  prediction  that  Libe- 
ria must  eventually  fail,  Rev.  Dr.  Alexander  Crum- 
mell,  D.  D.,  the  present  rector  of  St.  Luke’s  Church, 
Washington,  D.  C.,  and  who  was  a resident  of  Li- 
beria for  twenty  years,  in  his  work,  “Africa  and 
America,”  very  appropriately  says  : 

If  any  man  of  the  commonest,  simplest  common  sense  will 
pause  and  consider  the  humble  origin  of  Liberia ; will  call  to  re- 
membrance the  utter  illiteracy  of  nine-tenths  of  its  settlers; 
that  these  settlers  (but  children  of  knowledge)  were  transferred, 
in  the  brief  circuit  of  a moon’s  change,  from  the  ignorant  plan- 
tations of  America  to  the  wilds  of  Africa  ; that  for  years  there 


WAR  IMPLEMENTS. 

Knives.  Scimitars,  Bows,  Spears  and  Arrows,  War  Horn,  Canoe  Paddle. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


275 


was  not  a single  scholar  of  their  number  to  guide  them  in  their 
governmental  experiment ; that  they  set  up  the  standard  of  na- 
tionality in  utter  ignorance  of  the  science  of  government  and  of 
political  economy ; that  their  numbers  have  never,  at  any  time, 
reached  twenty  thousand  persons,  and  they  for  the  most  part 
ignorant  slaves;  that  sickness  and  suffering,  poverty  and  death 
have  been  the  constant  visitants  of  every  emigration  to  their 
fatherland ; that  their  entire  political  life  has  been  a ceaseless 
warfare,  now  with  lawless  and  piratical  slave-traders,  now 
with  barbarous  and  sanguinary  tribes,  now  with  brutal  and 
unscrupulous  foreign  traders,  and  unceasingly  with  a pestilen- 
tial clime — if,  I say,  he  will  take  these  facts  into  consideration, 
he  will  see  not  only  that  the  sneer  of  failure  is  a contemptible 
and  mendacious  libel,  but  that  Liberia  is  one  of  the  marvels  of 
modern  history ! yea,  but  little  short  of  a miracle ! 

Liberia  is  poor,  weak,  and  feeble.  Her  persistent  life  is  ever 
a perpetual,  but  nevertheless  an  effectual,  struggle. 

Never  in  the  history  of  man  has  a nation  been  set  up  of  such 
slender  materials  and  of  such  poor  resources,  and  that  amid 
wild  barbarism. 

Liberia  may  yet  die  ; but  if  she  dies,  the  future  historian,  if 
he  is  just  and  honorable,  will  chronicle  the  fact  with  the  candid 
avowal : “ The  wonderful  thing  about  Liberia  is  that  it  ever 
reached  national  life  ; and  only  next  to  this  is  the  fact  that  that 
life  was  as  long-continued  and  as  effective  as  it  was.” 

The  following  from  “ The  Amerieo-African  Re- 
public,” by  T.  McCants  Stewart,  Esq.,  former  Fi- 
nancial Agent  for  the  Liberian  College,  and  at 
present  an  influential  lawyer  in  LTewr  York  City, 
is  in  harmony  with  the  above : 

While  regretting  her  weakness,  let  us  not  forget  that  the  Re- 
public of  Liberia  is  a fact.  Among  the  nations  of  the  earth  she 
is  recognized  and  received.  Her  name  is  found  everywhere  in 
connection  with  the  status  or  characteristics  of  other  states.  I 
take  up  a commercial  work,  and  look  at  the  list  of  nations  that 
have  vessels  on  the  ocean ; Liberia  is  there.  I examine  the 


276 


Glimpses  of  Af  rica. 


list  showing  the  monetary  units  and  standard  coins  of  the  dif- 
ferent countries ; Liberia  is  there.  Her  past  career  has  not 
been  altogether  fruitless.  Although  a weak  ally,  yet  she  aided 
England  iu  suppressing  the  slave  trade  ; and  she  would,  if  she 
had  sufficient  strength  or  influence,  totally  destroy  domestic 
slavery  among  the  natives.  She  has  given  to  hundreds  of  na- 
tives a knowledge  of  the  English  language ; and,  although  it  is 
spoken  poorly,  yet  even  far  back  into  her  interior  it  is  possible 
to  find  some  one  among  the  aborigines  who  can  speak  our  Eng- 
lish tongue.  She  has  also  imparted  to  the  natives  what  she 
could  of  her  habits  of  industry,  and  she  has  given  of  her  Chris- 
tianity to  many  of  them,  some  of  whom  are  teaching  and 
preaching  unto  their  pagan  brethren. 

While  I am  no  enthusiast  over  the  Americo- African  Repub- 
lic, yet  T could  not  truthfully  say  that  it  has  existed  to  no 
purpose.  I thiuk  that  the  planting  of  Liberia  has  helped  to 
some  extent  the  work  of  African  civilization. 

If  in  the  future  the  United  States  Government  should  take  a 
livelier  and  deeper  interest  in  Liberia ; if  foreign  capital  should 
enter  the  country  ; if  a national  system  of  industrial  education 
should  be  vigorously  supported  ; if,  as  a result  of  these,  the  ab- 
origines should  be  civilized  and  educated  ; and  if  an  intelligent 
and  hardy  population  from  America  should  fuse  with  them,  and 
plant  and  sustain  settlementsextending  into  the  interior — then 
out  of  this  Americo- African  Republic  which  Preside  nt  Monroe 
planted  civilizing  and  Christianizing  influences  shall  sweep 
into  the  Soudan,  throughout  the  Niger,  and  into  the  Congo; 
and  under  a mighty  African  ruler  there  will  arise  a stable 
and  powerful  Government  of  Africans,  for  Africans,  and  by 
Africans,  which  shall  be  an  inestimable  blessing  to  all  man 
kind. 

Sunday,  December  2,  about  7 a.  m.,  I bid  adieu 
to  my  kind  and  generous  host  and  hostess,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Henry  Cooper,  and,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Jesse 
Cooper,  the  son  of  the  former,  I board  the  British 
steamship  “Africa,”  en  route  to  Sierra  Leone.  On 
weighing  anchor,  our  ship  heads  for  a port  about 


Personal  Memoranda. 


277 


twenty  miles  south  of  Monrovia,  where  we  load  a 
considerable  quantity  of  pissava.  On  account  of 
this  detour,  we  do  not  reach  Sierra  Leone  until  the 
following  Tuesday.  A part  of  the  ship’s  cargo  is  a 
full-grown  ostrich,  consigned  to  parties  in  Hamburg. 

Tuesday,  December  4,  about  10  a.  m.,  we  anchor 
safely  in  Freetown  harbor.  Here  I disembark,  and 
proceed  to  the  home  of  Rev.  J.  R.  Frederick,  Super- 
intendent of  Missions  of  the  African  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  in  the  Colony  of  Sierra  Leone. 
As  it  is  the  beginning  of  the  dry  season,  and  the 
rise  of  the  Harmattan  winds,  and  as  I feel  consid- 
erably debilitated,  and  as  I am  “blessed”  with  a 
small  crop  of  tropical  boils,  I do  not  feel  diposed 
to  spend  much  time  in  moving  around.  On  Wednes- 
day evening  I attend  prayer  meeting  at  Mt.  Zion 
A.  M.  E.  Church,  and  on  Thursday  afternoon  meet 
the  Sunday  school  of  said  church,  and  present  it 
with  a handsome  silk  banner,  made  in  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  in  token  of  its  liberality  in  contributing  $30  to 
assist  the  A.  M.  E.  Church  Sunday  School  Union 
in  paying  for  its  property  in  Nashville,  Tenn.  In 
company  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Frederick  I call  on  the 
Governor  of  the  Colony,  with  whom  I have  a half 
hour’s  pleasant  interview.  I pay  a visit  to  the 
Boys’  Grammar  School,  and  make  a brief  address 
to  the  students;  also  visit  St.  George’s  Cathedral. 

I am  indebted  to  Whitaker’s  Almanac  (1895)  for 
the  following  geographical  and  historical  account 
of  Sierra  Leone : 


278 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


The  Colony  of  Sierra  Leone  consists  of  a peninsula  ending  in 
Cape  Sierra  Leone.  The  Cape  lies  in  8°  30'  north  latitude  and 
13°  18'  west  longitude.  The  settlement  is  about  eighteen  miles 
in  length,  by  twelve  in  breadth,  with  an  area  of  about  468 
square  miles.  The  settlement  was  first  ceded  to  Great  Britain 
in  1787  by  native  Chiefs.  The  name  Sierra  Leone,  “ mountain 
of  lions,”  of,  more  correctly,  “ mountain  of  the  lioness,”  is  sup-7 
posed  to  have  been  given  to  this  peninsula  because  of  a fancied 
resemblance  to  a recumbent  and  nameless  lion. 

The  actual  existence  of  lions,  or  rather  leopards,  among  the 
hills,  the  roaring  of  waves  upon  the  shore,  the  noise  of  thunder 
upon  the  mountain  top,  have  all  been  given  as  the  origin  of 
the  name.  Sierra  Leone  is  a Crown  Colony. 

About  1561,  or  1562,  a hundred  years  after  it  was  first  sighted 
by  Pedro  de  Cintra,  John  Hawkins  came  there  and  carried  off 
natives  to  the  West  Indies.  Strange  that  the  first  spot  where  the 
English  slave  trade  began  in  Africa  should  also  be  the  firstspot 
where  it  was  abolished. 

Freetown,  the  capital  of  the  Colony,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  peninsula.  It  faces  the  har- 
bor, and  looks  to  the  north  and  northwest.  Its  streets  are  broad 
and  well  laid  out,  and  its  water  supply  is  excellent. 

The  hills  cut  off  the  southwesterly  sea  breezes,  and  this 
causes  the  town  to  be  unhealthy. 

The  population  of  Freetown,  which  is  really  the  only  town 
in  the  Colony,  was  30,000  at  the  last  census.  Of  this  number 
210  are  Europeans,  the  rest  natives.  It  is  one  of  the  Imperial 
coaling  stations,  and  as  such  is  fortified  and  garrisoned  It  is 
headquarters  of  the  West  India  regiments  on  the  West  Coast  of 
Africa,  and  it  is  in  telegraphic  communication  with  all  parts 
of  the  world.  Its  distance  from  England  is  over  3,000  miles. 
The  mean  annual  rainfall  is  over  150  inches  per  year.  The 
year  is  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry  seasons,  lasting  from  May 
till  October,  and  from  November  till  April. 

The  products  of  Sierra  Leone  are  limited,  owiDg  to  the  fact 
that  one-sixth  of  the  resident  population  are  traders.  How- 
ever, some  ginger,  rice,  and  cassava  are  produced,  besides  veg- 
etables for  home  consumption. 


*Si«sS 


DOMESTIC  ARTICLES. 

iats,  Calabashes,  Hats,' Spoons,  Ladles,  Basket,  Cap,  Harp,  Beads,  Pin  Cushion,  Small  Elephant  Tusk: 

Tray,  Shoes,  Ivory  Cup. 


Personal  Memoranda. 


281 


The  chief  exports  of  the  Colony  are  palm  kernels,  rubber, 
cocoanuts,  palm  oil,  gum  copal,  rice,  and  hides. 

Most  of  the  colonial  revenue  is  derived  from  custom  duties. 

The  standard  of  currency  of  the  Colony  is  British  sterling. 

There  is  great  diversity  in  religion  at  Sierra  Leone.  Chris- 
tians, Mohammedans,  and  Pagans  are  all  well  represented. 
Mohammedanism  is  said  to  be  growing  faster  than  Christian- 
ity, although  in  1891  there  were  said  to  be  41,000  Christians. 

The  Christian  denominations  represented  are  the  Church 
of  England,  the  Wesleyans.  the  Free  Church  Methodists,  and 
the  African  Methodists,  with  a few  Roman  Catholics. 

Most  of  the  elementary  educational  work  is  done  by  private 
schools,  some  of  which  are  subsidized  by  the  Government.  The 
present  system  of  education  in  the  Colony  dates  from  1882. 
More  advanced  education  is  given  at  Freetown  High  Schools 
and  at  the  Training  College  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society, 
at  Fourah  Bay,  which  is  affiliated  to  Durham  University,  in 
England. 

Monday,  the  10th,  about  5 p.  M.,I  leave  the  harbor 
of  Freetown,  per  the  steamship  “ Bakana,”  of  the 
British  and  African  Steamship  Company,  for  Liv- 
erpool, Eng.,  after  a cruise  of  two  months  and  three 
weeks  along  the  "West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Af- 
rica. 

Sunday,  December  17,  about  2 p.  m.,  we  drop  an- 
chor at  Las  Palmas,  Grand  Canary,  and  remain 
about  five  hours  loading  fruit.  We  find  the  British 
steamship  “Cabenda”  anehoredhere,  and  on  inquiry 
learn  that  the  following  Americans  are  aboard  en 
route  to  the  West  Coast : J.  W.  llott,  D.  D.,  Bishop 
of  the  Church  of  the  United  Brethren  of  Christ, 
Cedar  Rapids,  Iowa;  Rev.  and  Mrs.  A.  F.  How- 
ard, Michigan;  Miss  Cornish,  Ohio ; Miss  Eaton, 
Los  Angeles,  Cal. — all  ticketed  to  Sierra  Leone,  and 


282 


Glimpses  of  Africa. 


Mr.  and  Mrs.  Isbey,  of  Sumter,  Miss.,  destined  for 
Lagos.  It  is  an  interesting  party,  and  though  I 
am  glad  to  meet  them,  and  freely  chat  with  them 
lor  a half  hour,  I experience  a subdued  feeling  of 
sadness  when  I reflect  that  they  have  left  home 
and  native  land — all  of  them  to  work  for  Africa’s 
redemption,  and,  perhaps,  most  of  them  to  die  for 
it.  These  are  heroes  of  whom  the  world  knows 
but  little.  In  my  heart  of  hearts  I most  sincerely 
commend  them  to  the  favor  and  protection  of  Al- 
mighty God. 

December  25,  at  early  morn,  our  journey  to 
Liverpool  is  ended,  and  all  aboard  are  eager  to  get 
ashore.  It  is  a veritable  “nasty  day” — cold  and 
raining.  The  custom  officials  have  evidently  caught 
the  good  cheer  of  Christmas  times,  and  so  allow  us 
to  depart  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  In  a 
brief  time  I am  seated  beside  a blazing  tire  in  a 
room  at  Laurence’s  Hotel. 

Wednesday,  January  3,  after  ten  days  of  suffer- 
ing from  the  effects  of  the  change  from  the  equa- 
torial to  the  temperate  region  (and  that  in  the 
midst  ot  winter),  I embark  on  the  steamship 
“Teutonic"  for  Hew  York,  which  place  we  reach 
Wednesday,  January  10,  1895,  about  9 a.  m.  At 
4.30  p.  m.  of  the  same  date  I take  a train  for  Phila- 
delphia, where  I remain  until  4.30  p.  m.  of  the  next 
day,  when  I start  for  Nashville,  Tenn.,  where  I ar- 
rive at  9 P.  M.  the  evening  of  the  11th,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  147  days,  during  which  I traveled  2,500 
miles  by  land  and  18,500  miles  by  sea,  without 


DOMESTIC  ARTICLES. 

Cloth  of  Bark  Fibre,  Wild  Cotton,  Whisp  Broom,  Caps,  Congo  Money,  Mats,  Ivory  Finger  Riu: 


Personal  Manor  a nda. 


285 


meeting  with  a storm,  or  even  a squall,  and  with- 
out a single  mishap  of  any  kind. 

A great  change  “ came  o’er  the  spirit  of  my 
dreams”  while  abroad.  Most  certain  it  is  that 
civilization  is  a plant  of  slow  growth,  and  equally 
certain  it  is  that  the  “ fittest  will  survive.” 

A word  as  to  the  voyage.  A journey  can  now 
be  made  to  the  West  and  Southwest  Coast  of  Africa 
quite  as  comfortably  as  it  can  be  made  between 
New  York  and  Liverpool.  All  of  the  steamships 
with  a carrying  capacity  of  3,000  tons  and  up- 
ward are  new,  and  fitted  with  all  the  conven- 
iences of  modern  ocean  travel,  such  as  electric 
lights,  smokingroom  and  library,  ladies’  saloon 
(separate  and  apart  from  the  ladies’  cabin),  cold 
storage,  etc.  Passengers  for  the  West  Coast  can 
embark  at  Liverpool,  Hamburg,  and  Havre  ; and 
for  the  South-west  Coast  at  Liverpool,  Antwerp 
(direct  route  to  the  Congo),  Havre,  Hamburg,  and 
Lisbon. 

Elder  Dempster  & Co.,  14  Castle  Street,  Liverpool, 
are  the  general  agents  of  the  British  and  African 
Steamship  Navigation  Company,  Limited,  and  of 
the  African  Steamship  Company.  These  two  com- 
panies maintain  a fleet  of  fifty-three  steamships 
with  an  aggreate  carrying  capacity  of  121,555  tons. 
The  fare  for  the  round  trip  from  Liverpool  to  St. 
Paul  de  Loanda  is  $270  first-class. 

The  facilities  for  making  observations  as  to  the 
influences  of  civilization  on  the  West  and  South- 
west Coast  of  Africa  are  fully  sufficient.  There 


are  no  points  of  civilization  away  from  the  coast 
line  and  the  river  courses. 

I unswervingly  pursued  the  objects  which  im- 
pelled me  to  make  the  journey,  and  it  was  indeed 
interesting  and  instructive.  I brought  home  a 
large  number  of  photographs,  the  work  of  native 
photographers;  also  many  curios.  I especially 
value  my  collection  of  war  implements. 

In  the  language  of  the  uncivilized  African  when 
he  has  completed  a discourse,  “ This  palaver  be 
finished,” 


THE  END 


APPENDIX 


DETAILS  OF  HY  AFRICAN  VOYAGE. 
West  and  Southwest  Coast. 


[The  table  refers  to  the  outward  voyage,  and  was  kindly  fur- 
nished by  the  chief  engineer,  Mr.  J.  J.  Irving.] 

Outward  V otase  of  the  Steamship  “ Benguela  " from  Liverpool  to 
St.  Paul  be  Loanda. 


PORTS. 

1894. 

Miles  Between 
Ports. 

Miles  from  Liv- 
erpool. 

Stoppages. 

a 

iHrs. 

fl 

Liverpool, 

Dep. 

Sept.  5th, 

9.50  a.  m. 

Sierra  Leone, 

Arr. 

18th, 

5.45  a.  in. 

3010 

7 

31 

Dep. 

1.16  p.  in. 

Sess  Town, 

Arr. 

20th, 

11.10  a.  m. 

440 

i 

36 

Dep.- 

12.40  p.  m. 

Grand  Sess, 

Arr. 

2.35  p.  m. 

18 

2 

51 

Dep. 

5.26  p.  m. 

Accra, 

Arr. 

22d, 

7.30  p.  m. 

511 

3979 

14 

15 

Dep. 

23d, 

9.45  p.  in. 

Lagos, 

Arr. 

24th , 

10.25  a.  m. 

230 

4209 

3 

15 

Dep. 

1.40  p.  m. 

Fernando  Po, 

Arr. 

26th, 

9.35  a.  in. 

3ol 

22 

25 

Dep. 

27th, 

8.00  a.  in. 

Victoria, 

Arr. 

11.35  a.  m. 

30 

14 

50 

Dep. 

28  th, 

2.25  a.  m. 

Cameroons  Bar, 

Arr. 

8.30  a.  ni. 

50 

0 

40 

Dep. 

3 10  p.  in. 

Cameroons, 

Arr. 

5.10  p.  m. 

10 

4660 

4 

40 

Dep. 

Oct.  2d, 

5.50  p.  m. 

Cameroons  Bar, 

Arr. 

6.20  p,  m. 

10 

11 

25 

Dep. 

3d, 

5.45  a.  m. 

Batanga, 

Arr. 

3.40  p.  ra. 

80 

14 

5 

Dep. 

4th, 

5.45  a.  m. 

Waterfall  Bar, 

Arr. 

6.20  a.  m. 

5 

2 

50 

Dep. 

9.10  a.  m. 

Batta, 

Arr. 

4.30  p.  in. 

62 

5 

15 

Dep. 

9.45  p.  m. 

Ukaka, 

Arr. 

5th, 

9.40  a.  m. 

75 

2 

Dep. 

11.40  a.  m. 

Eloby, 

Arr. 

12.15  p.  m. 

4 

4 

35 

Dep. 

4.50  p.  in. 

Gaboon  River, 

Arr. 

6 th, 

2.10  a.  m. 

60 

3 

40 

Dep. 

5.50  a.  m. 

(287) 


Appendix. 


Gaboon, 

Arr. 

7.35 

a. 

in. 

Dep. 

4.00 

p- 

m. 

N’gove, 

Arr. 

7th, 

4.05 

P- 

in. 

Dep. 

8th, 

12.50 

a. 

m. 

Setta  Cama, 

Arr. 

7.40 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

0.20 

a. 

m. 

Loango, 

Arr 

9th, 

7.40 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

2.25 

p- 

m. 

Quillo, 

Arr 

3.35 

p- 

m. 

Dep. 

10th, 

12.50 

P- 

m. 

Black  Point, 

Arr. 

3.15 

P- 

in. 

Dep. 

4.20 

p 

m. 

Anchorage, 

Arr. 

11th, 

1.05 

a. 

in. 

Dep. 

6.50 

a. 

ID. 

Cabenda, 

Arr. 

7.30 

a. 

in. 

Dep 

4.30 

p- 

m. 

Shark  Point, 

Arr. 

12th, 

1.00 

a. 

ni. 

Dep. 

5.50 

a. 

m. 

Banana, 

Arr. 

7.10 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

8.30 

a. 

m. 

Malilla, 

Arr. 

11.30 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

6.10 

p- 

ni. 

Shifting  Anchorage, 

Arr. 

6.30 

p- 

m. 

Dep. 

13th, 

1.16 

a. 

m. 

Anchorage, 

Arr. 

1.35 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

5.45 

a. 

m. 

Shifting  Anchorage, 

Arr. 

7.45 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

1.00 

p- 

m. 

Anchorage, 

Arr. 

•6.45 

P- 

m. 

Dep. 

14th, 

5.40 

a. 

m. 

Boma, 

Arr. 

8.05 

a. 

in. 

Dep. 

11.00 

a. 

in. 

Binda, 

Arr. 

1.10 

p- 

in. 

Dep. 

15th, 

8.15 

a. 

ni. 

Noqui, 

Arr. 

11.10 

a. 

m. 

Dep. 

17th, 

5.40 

a. 

ni.  ' 

Matadi, 

Arr. 

7.00 

a. 

ID. 

Dep. 

18th, 

2.35 

p- 

ID. 

Boma, 

Arr. 

6.50 

P- 

m. 

Dep. 

20th, 

12.50 

p- 

m. 

Banana, 

Arr. 

5.00 

P- 

m. 

Dep. 

5.10 

p- 

m. 

Loanda, 

Arr. 

21st, 

3.45 

P- 

in. 

Dep. 

22d, 

2.20 

p- 

m, 

86 

25 

20 

52% 

57 

184 


4880 


5435 


5614 


25 
45 
40 
45 
35 
5 
45 

••  1 
50 
20 
40 
45 

1°  j o 

15 


i W 
< 

o 


Stopping  time  on  outward  voyage 


38 


Left  Liverpool  outward  Sept.  5, 1894;  arrived  St.  Paul  de  LoandaOct.  21, 1894. 

On  the  homeward  voyage,  in  addition  to  the  above  places, 
stops  were  made  at  Amb'riz,  Ambrizette,  Muculla,  Musera, 
Nyanga,  Landana,  Mayumba,  Cape  Lopez,  Bibindi,  Rio  del 
Ray,  and  Monrovia.  The  time  occupied  in  making  the  voyage 
from  Liverpool  and  return  was  three  months  and  twenty  days, 
including  a stop  of  ten  days  at  Monrovia  and  six  days  at  Sierra 
Leone. 


CALL  NUMBER 

Vo!. 

Date  (for  periodical) 

I 

Copy  No. 

S 644(3- 


439495 


